Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. Route "Troyka" 3A

Angarskaya Wall. Classic via chimney 3A (V. Goncharov — V. Gumenyuk (Yalta)).

Equipment:

• Large-sized chocks
• Large friends/camalots
• Large-sized hexes
• 10 quickdraws

Time to complete the route for an average team: 3 hours.

On the far right in the photo: Route "Classic via chimney" 3A

Routes on Angarskaya Wall

Technical description of the route:

R0–R1: 25 m, II. Easy climbing on ruined cracks. Many loose rocks and grass. Then move right to a monolithic slab and along it on an earthy path to a yew tree.

R1–R2: 40 m, V. From the yew tree, move left through rubble to the base of a chimney and then up it for 20 m. In the upper part, there is a slight overhang, followed by a system of heavily ruined ledges and cracks.

• The last crack has loose rocks!
• Behind it, there is a large inclined ledge with loose material, overgrown with grass and juniper.
• Belay station on the ledge or higher in the crack on personal anchors (large-sized hexes).

R2–R3: 48 m, V. From the belay station, climb up the crack, then right, bypassing the crack with a dry tree. A short traverse left leads to the base of a crack with smoothed walls, and then up, with protection on large-sized hexes and friends. After the crack, move slightly left, then easy climbing to a half-meter grassy ledge with a piton driven above on the wall. Here is the belay station.

R3–R4: 50 m, III. Up and slightly left through a system of ledges and small slabs to two bolts of the "toilet" belay station. From here, move right and up diagonally. Then up — easy climbing on cracks and exit to a couloir.

Author of the description: Mikhail Lapshin. Source: alpinist.biz