Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B

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Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B (Samulev E. - start, Lishaev Yu. - finish).

A complex and tense line without drilled holes and auxiliary points on the crux. In some places, there are many loose rocks, and in some places, it's hard to organize belays. It can be rightfully considered the most challenging route on the entire wall.

Equipment:

• hammers and pitons
• a set of quickdraws
• medium and large nuts
• medium and large cams.

Angarskaya stena. "Appenditsit" Route 4B, #6 (from left to right, dark lilac line)

Technical description of the route:

R0–R1: 20 m, III. The start is located between the "Akrobatiya" route and the "Unitaz" trio. Up about 15 m to a ledge. Then to the right. Station near the neighboring trio's line on the first ascenders' pitons.

R1–R2: 35 m, V. Up, moving left to a small vertical chimney. Station on the first ascenders' pitons after a vertical inner corner on a grassy ledge.

R3–R4: 35 m, IV

A short rope and an uncomplicated rope. Belaying is organized easily.

Station on the first ascenders' pitons before traversing a system of vertical cracks from the left.

R3–R4: 55 m, VI+ A2

After the station:

• Traverse left and up through a system of cracks.
• Many loose rocks and blocks at the exit.
• The route then coincides with Fantikov's "Kosaya".
• Move up under an overhang to a small rowan tree under a hanging cornice.
• Aided ascent on large nuts and cams.
• In the middle, a "carrot" is hammered in good condition.
• A challenging exit beyond the overhang.
• Station on a ledge, shared with "Akrofobiya".

Alternative variant of the first rope:

R0–R2: 55 m, V+ A1

The start is located between the "Akrofobiya" route and the "Unitaz" trio.

Up about 15 m to a ledge.

In the right part of the niche, an overhanging crack goes up (A1, 5 m).

Station on the first ascenders' pitons after a vertical inner corner on a grassy ledge.

Description author: Mikhail Lapshin

Source: alpinist.biz