Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B
Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B (Lishaev Yu. (Fantik))
Required equipment:
- a set of quickdraws
- a set of nuts
- a set of cams
- hammers and pitons are desirable
Large cams, hexes, as well as small nuts work well!
Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B
Technical description of the route:
R0–R1: 45 m, III. The start coincides with the "Serp" route. Protection with large cams or hexes in the chimney. After exiting the chimney, go to the right at 45° through grassy ledges along vertical, subtle cracks.
Climbing is straightforward, but there are many loose rocks. Immediately after the end of the rubble zone (clearly visible on the wall as an orange horizontal stripe across the entire wall), there's a convenient ledge for a belay station (nuts and cams).
R1–R2: 45 m, IV. Climbing over very crumbling, prone rock. High risk of rockfall.
From the belay station:
- Up and to the right at 45° to a large monolithic ledge, where the R2 belay station of the "Akrofobiya" route is located.
- Then, traverse 8 m to the right along the ledge.
- The belay station is on small nuts, to the right and 1 m below the "Akrofobiya" station.
R2–R3: 40 m, VI+. Continue traversing to the right, then climb up through crumbling rocks to a tree, and then up a slightly overhanging crack with strenuous climbing (6a+, 6b) for 7–8 m. Protection is easily organized with nuts and cams. After exiting the overhang, go up to the start of a large, grassy ledge. The belay station is in a crack, using nuts.
R3–R4: 45 m, no protection. From the belay station, traverse left along the ledge, which is heavily overgrown with grass, to a small ledge with several linden trees, which requires a slight descent.
R4–R5: 50 m, III, 5 m — V. Coincides with the final rope length of the "Serp" route.
From the tree:
- Right and up,
- then left to a small chimney, on the right wall of which a piton is hammered.
After the chimney:
- Right and up through a system of ledges to a large platform with trees,
- from here, left and up to the yayla.
Time to complete the route: 2–3 hours.
Author of the description: Mikhail Lapshin
Source: alpinist.biz
