"Fnesta" Route 4A 270 m 6a/5cA1 Lavri­nenko A., Mi­ryuk O.

The ap­proach be­gins from the place where a dirt road goes to the Khergiani rock. Up the path, bearing right, bypassing the Khergiani rock, then through a couloir (some simple climbing) to a large inclined grassy ledge. Up along it — to the base of an internal corner where the route begins. R0–R1 55 m 5c Always up the corner, the difficulty gradually increases. Protection with large stoppers and friends; several trees are encountered. The belay station is on a tree at the beginning of a wide chimney. R1–R2 60 m 5c Up the chimney, pass under a plug, then:

• along a ledge slightly right,
• up, bearing left, towards an internal corner formed by a large boulder and the main wall. The entire pitch is very easy except for 7 m through the internal corner. Above the corner — along a ledge left, to a juniper, with a belay station on it.

Mer­dvеn-Ka­yasy — 14. “Present”

Massif: Mer­dvеn-Ka­yasy (Khergi­ani) 856 m Complexity: 4Б V A1 Author: Lavri­nenko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 5 Length: 225 m Time to ascend: 4–6 hours Route description: The approach begins from the place where a dirt road leads to Khergi­ani rock. Follow the path upwards, bearing right, bypassing Khergi­ani rock, then ascend via a couloir with some simple scrambling to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Follow the ledge upwards to the left for about 100 meters; the start is slightly above a deciduous tree, via an oblique crack. R0–R1 40 m Ascend the crack to the left and upwards for 7 meters, then continue upwards through a system of corners and slots; the climbing is steady, and protection is easy to organize. Equipment:

• medium and large cams
• stoppers The belay station is near a dry tree; there's a bolt and room for own pitons. IV

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa — Crimea. Merdven-Kayas. First ascents. Results of the first half of 2007.

"Present" Route 4B

Lavrinenko A. Tsushko T. The approach starts from the point where a dirt road goes to the Khergiani rock. Follow the trail upwards, bearing right, bypassing the Khergiani rock, then ascend via a couloir with some easy climbing to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Follow the ledge upwards to the left for about 100 meters; the start is slightly above a deciduous tree, via an oblique crack. 0–1 40 m 5c — Ascend the crack to the left and upwards for 7 meters, then continue upwards through a system of corners and cracks. The climbing is uniform, and protection is easy to organize (medium and large friends, stoppers). The belay station is near a dry tree; there's a bolt and our own pitons. 1–2 52 m 5c — From the station, move upwards to the right, climb over a large boulder, then continue upwards into an internal corner, and up through the corner transitioning into a chimney (stoppers, pitons) to reach a strongly inclined grassy ledge. Ascend the ledge to the left towards a large pine tree. Belay station. 2–3 54 m 6a A1 From the station:

• move upwards to the left towards a small ridge
• continue upwards through internal corners

Merdven-Kayas — 17. "Lanzheron"

Massif: Merdven-Kayas (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 4B A2 Authors: Lavrinenko A., Kuzmenko A. Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 220 m Duration: 4–6 hours Route description: The route goes along the left edge of the S wall, through a system of inner corners, via a through grotto to the summit. The approach to the route is from a small abandoned quarry, up to the right, bypassing the lower rocky bastion, then along a talus couloir for about 200 m, with two short 5-meter wall climbs, and then along a grassy-talus slope to the base of the wall. Under the wall, proceed to its leftmost part.

Author: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol

"Bezzavetny" Route, Merdven-Kayas. Description

Recommend as a training route for trad climbing to all students of the "Category of Difficulty" school — approximately HVS/F5c. Caution: being under the start of the route while a team is climbing is dangerous. There are still loose rocks there. About five more ascents are needed to finally clear this section.

R1–R2

Cross the internal corner from right to left, exit onto the rocky ridge and continue up the ridge. Midway through the section, near a tree, you'll see an old steel cable — remnants of equipped loops

Merdven-Kayasa — 18. “May 9”

Massif: Merdven-Kayasa (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 5A VI A2 Author: Lav­ri­n­en­ko A., Kuz'menko A. Year of creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 220 m Duration: 4–6 hours Route description: The route starts on the left part of the S wall, transitions to the right part of the wall at the top, and leads to the very summit, to the triangulator. There are destroyed sections. Approach to the route — from a small abandoned quarry:

• up to the right, bypassing the lower rocky bastion,
• further along the talus couloir (about 200 m),

Merdven-Kyasy. Khergiani — 3

Massif: Merdven-Kyasy (Khergiani) — 856 m, difficulty: 5B, author: Odoyev Vladimir, year of route creation: 2015, ascent time: 10 hours, ascent passport

1. Region: Russian Federation, Crimean Federal District, Oliva Urban-Type Settlement
2. Peak, route: peak Merdven-Kyasy 856 m, via the central part of the southern wall, route by V. Odoyev and K. Gostev “Pyany Ugol”.
3. difficulty category: 5B
4. Route type: rock
5. route length: 367 m

Merdven-Kayas — 5. "False Start"

Massif: Merdven-Kayas (Khergiani) 856 m. Difficulty: 5B, VI, A2. Authors: Tsushko T., Khomenko A. Year of route creation: 2008. Number of pitches: 7. Length: 320 m. Route description: From "Chertova lestnitsa" (Devil's Staircase) follow the upper road approximately 1 km east, then take a dirt road to reach the campsites, and then follow a trail to the wall. The start of the route is a long cleft with a tree in its lower part.

• R0–R1 45 m. Up the cleft cutting through the entire lower bastion. The cleft is partially destroyed. There's an intermediate bolt at the 15-meter mark.
• Belay station on a bolt (spit) and own protection points.
• 10 m IV–V; 35 m VIA2 R1–R2 55 m. First, follow the cleft for 35 m, then exit through a chimney onto an inclined ledge. Traverse left and up along the ledge to a tree; belay station at the tree using spit anchors + cams. List:
• 35 m VIA2
• 10 m V

G. Merdven kaya (856 m) via the center of the SW wall "Fal'start" 5B, approximately.

Tsushko T., Khomenko A., 13–14.01.08 The approach from the upper road takes 10 minutes. The start of the route is a long crack that leads to a flattening. Further, along the rocks of medium difficulty, move towards a huge chimney-crack, through which you exit to the yayla. The route length is about 350 m. R0–R1. First, a crawl, then up to A-2 through the crack (a bolt is hammered 15 m above the ground). At the belay station: bolt + own. The crack is partially destroyed; in some places, it's better to belay from the left and right walls away from the crack. 45 m. 1–2 First, through the crack to A-2 — 35 m, then climb the chimney — 10 m, and exit to an inclined ledge. Along the ledge, left and up to a tree. Near the tree, the belay station: bolt + nuts; the tree does not inspire confidence. 53–55 m. 2–3 Along the ledge, left and up, then easy climbing:

• first, up the slab,
• then up the flake,
• we climb to a flattening; on the left, there's a large pine.

Merdven-Kaya­sy — 6B «Ek­spromt»

Massif: Merdven-Kaya­sy (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 5B Author: A. Geni­ush, Kudryav­tsev Year of creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 300 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours Route description: Long, logical, classic route. From the "Chertova lest­nitsa" (Devil's Staircase) along the upper road approximately 1 km east, then along the dirt road to the parking area, then along the trail to the wall. The start of the route is from a large pine tree. R0-1 60 m. Start from the tree to the right 3 m, then up the slab to a weakly expressed depression and further to the left up the corner overgrown with grass, exit to a tree. Then slightly left and up — approach to the internal corner. Further along the internal corner, exit to the top of a spall. Belay station. There is a bolt. Characteristics:

• 45 m III
• 10 m V+
• 5 m IV