Merdven-Kayasы — 7. "Relax"

Difficulty: 5B VI A2 Author: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Kuz­men­ko A. Year of creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 8 Length: 375 m Time to complete: 5–8 hours Route description:

• From "Chertova lest­nitsa" ("Devil's Stair­case") along the up­per road ap­prox­i­mately 1 km to the east
• Fur­ther along the dirt road to the campsites
• Fur­ther along the trail to the wall. Start­ing point is near a large pine tree.

The route goes along the bastion to the right of the Geni­ush route, in the up­per part it con­verges with the T͡Sush­ko and Geni­ush routes.

R0–R1 60 m. Start from the tree to the right for 3 m, then up along the plane to a weak­ly ex­pressed mul­da and fur­ther to the left up­ward along the cor­ner over­grown with grass, reach the tree. Fur­ther slight­ly to the left and up­ward — ap­proach to the in­ter­nal cor­ner. Fur­ther along the in­ter­nal cor­ner, reach the top of the spall. Sta­tion. There is a bolt.

• 45 m III
• 10 m V+
• 5 m IV

R1–R2 50 m. From the sta­tion up­ward on ITO along the sys­tem of cracks, 10 m, fur­ther climb­ing to the right up­ward, to the junip­er bush, then up­ward, to the in­ter­nal cor­ner. Sta­tion on a shelf, there is a bolt.

Length and dif­fi­cul­ty of the pitch­es:

• 15 m — V
• 10 m — V
• 25 m — III–IV

R2­–­R3 35 ­m. Up­ward along the cor­ner. Be­hind the ly­ing tree up­ward along the crevice, through a small over­hang reach the tree, from it to the right 5 m to the sta­tion (there is a bolt).

Length and dif­fi­cul­ty of the pitch­es:

• 10 m — V
• 25 m — VIA1

R3­–­R4 30 ­m. From the sta­tion to the right to the crevice, along the crevice, tran­si­tion­ing into a cor­ner, up­ward — dif­fi­cult climb­ing — to a shelf. From the shelf up­ward along the rocks of av­er­age dif­fi­cul­ty to a group of trees. Sta­tion on a tree.

• 20 m VI A1
• 10 m III

R4–R5 50 m. To the right up­ward along the in­ter­nal cor­ner, reach the tree. From the tree up­ward, climb over a 10-me­ter wall, then along the easy rocks to a large grassy shelf. Sta­tion on a tree.

• 10 m III
• 10 m V
• 30 m II

R5–R6 80 m. Along the shelf, tran­si­tion to the base of the chim­ney.

R6–R7 30 m. From the sta­tion:

• to the left and up­ward along the left part of the chim­ney,
• sta­tion right above the large jam in the chim­ney, on a shelf with a tree.

Sta­tion on an­chors and nuts. V

R7–R8 40 m. From the sta­tion up­ward along the chim­ney:

• the chim­ney in the lower part is dif­fi­cult, pos­si­bil­i­ties for pro­tec­tion are lim­it­ed,
• af­ter 15 me­ters be­comes eas­i­er,
• fur­ther along the chim­ney-cul­oir, reach the yay­la.

15 ­m V+; 25 ­m III+