Merdven-Kayasy — 8. "Odessa Express"
Massif: Merdven-Kayasy (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 6A VI A2 Author: Lavrinenko A., Tsushko T. Year of route creation: 2008 Length: 365 m Route description: From the "Chertova lestnitsa" (Devil's Staircase) along the upper road approximately 1 km east, then along the dirt road to the parking areas, then along the trail, and then along easy rocks and talus to approach the wall.
The route passes through the center of the bastion, then crosses a belt of simple rocks, moves left under a clearly visible gap cutting through the summit tower. And through it, it leads to the yayla.
R0–R1 40 m
- Through simple rocks
- Left upwards
- Reach a sloping grassy ledge
Station on juniper. 2B
R1–R2, 40 m. From the station upwards — left, along a slab into a reclining angle with grass (there is a bolt). Along the angle, left upwards, to a small tree, then through an internal angle to reach a small ledge. From the ledge upwards and slightly right, through a system of cracks to a narrow ledge — here is the station.
Bolted VIA2 R2–R3 50 m. From the station, move 3 m right to a shelf, along a crack upwards to a small tree. Above the tree, the crack splits. You need to move to the left crack. Along the crack, then through an internal angle upwards. Station on a large tree on a flattening. VIA2
R3–R4 50 m. From the station 5 m right to a crack, along the crack upwards, first meters on artificial aids, then climbing through cracks and internal angles, reach a tree on a flattening.
Station. VIA1
R4–R6 80 m. Through simple rocks and sloping ledges left upwards, reach a large sloping grassy ledge at the base of an internal angle. I–II
R6–R7 50 m Through a steep, overgrown internal angle upwards, to a tree, without reaching the tree, upwards through a slightly overhanging crack, mainly on artificial aids, many points are reliable, but their organization requires a lot of effort, as the crack is rugged and partially overgrown.
- Reach a tree
- From it upwards left about 10 m, climbing
- Enter the angle
Station on the right side of the angle. Bolt 10 mm. VIA2+
R7–R8 35 m
The further path passes through an inclined left internal angle. Move along the angle, sometimes along the left side of the angle. Station in the middle part of the angle on a flattening, there is a bolt.
VIA1
R7–R8 25 m
From the station, continue moving along the angle, through a small overhang, then exit into a couloir, from it to the yayla.
VIA1