St. Petersburg Championship 2015 Class of Technical Ascents

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Takhtarvumchorr Central First passage of the route along the inner corners of the center of the Cirque поясов wall Team coach:

• Timoshenko T.A. — Master of Sports
• Semiletkin S.A. — Master of Sports Leader:

Report

On the Ascent

via the right part of the counterfort of the East wall bastion in Takhtarvumchorr (C) (1144 m), 4B–5A category of difficulty. Khibiny. Takhtarvumchorr Ridge Leader: A.V. Yurkin Coach: A.V. Yurkin

Ascent Passport

1. Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain massif. "Poyasov" Cirque. Classification table section number: № 8.6. (according to KGBM 2013)
2. Name of the peak — Takhtarvumchorr Central (1144 m), route "Golfstream", via the right part of the counterfort of the E. wall bastion.
3. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B–5A

Report

On the ascent of the Takhtarvumchorr ridge via the center of the Belts Wall. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B. For classification. (First ascent: Andreev A.B., 2004.) Khibiny mountain range, Takhtarvumchorr ridge, Classification table section: 8.6. Team coaches: Kurdiy A.A., Pochivalov S.S. Leader: Druzhkin A.S. Murmansk, 2021

I. Ascent Passport

As­cent Pass­port

1. Kola Penin­sula. Khibiny mo­untain range. "Poyasov" Cirque. Section num­ber of the clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble: №8.6
2. Name of the peak — Takhtarvumchorr — 1143 m, name of the route — "Down the cen­ter of the Poyasov wall".
3. Pro­posed — 6A cat. dif., first as­cent.
4. Na­ture of the route: rock.
5. Height dif­fer­ence of the route: 350 m (by al­ti­me­ter) Length of the route: 400 m. Length of sec­tions of V cat. dif. — 120 m, VI cat. dif. — 156 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: main part of the route — 88.5°, whole route — 83°. 6. Pitons left on the route: to­tal — 3; in­clud­ing bol­lard pitons — 2. Pitons used: sta­tio­nary bol­lard pitons: 2 pcs. To­tal ar­ti­fi­cial points of sup­port (APS) used: 105 points. Team's work­ing hours: 30 h.

V. Takhtarvumchorr, route — via the left part of the north wall of Otkol “OLENEVODY”

Proklov V.G.

Khibiny mountain range. Otkol Cirque. Classification table section: # 8.6

Ascent Passport

1. Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. Otkol Cirque. Classification table section: # 8.6
2. Name of the summit — Takhtarvumchorr 1143 m, name of the route — via the left part of the north wall of Otkol “OLENEVODY”.
3. Proposed category: 3B, variant.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 350 m (by altimeter) Route length: 455 m. Section lengths:

Report

On the Ascent

via the 3rd category of difficulty route on the southern part of the wall

of the "Poyasov" cirque on Mt. Takhtarvumchorr (Ts) (1144 m) route "Zubastik", (first ascent by Pochivalov S., 2004) cat. 3B diff. Takhtarvumchorr ridge, Khibiny Mountains (August 26, 2012, 2nd ascent)

Apatity

2016

Ascent Passport

1. Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain massif. "Poyasov" cirque. Classification table section number: 8.6.1

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING, LETI ALPCLUB Report: Mt. Takhtarvumchorr, route - via the "Otkol" couloir from the North Balagurin S. O. Khibiny mountain range. Otkol cirque Classification table section number: #8.6

Ascent Passport

1. Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. Otkol cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
2. Peak name — Takhtarvumchorr 1143 m, route name — Otkol Couloir from the North.
3. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B. First ascent
4. Route characteristics: winter — combined, summer — rock.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains
3. Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via the center of the North face of the East ridge of Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 1143.5 m
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B category
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Walls: Length of sections, difficulty category: II — 800 m, III — 80 m Average wall steepness: overall 60°

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class — ice and snow. 2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains. 3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via "Zigzag" couloir on the wall of Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 1154 m. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Length of sections, category difficulty:

• I — 500 m
• II — 500 m
• III — 100 m Average slope: overall 50°

Ascent Passport

1. Khibiny mountain range. Ganesheva Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
2. Peak name: Vudyavrchorr 1067 m, route name — "Lestenka".
3. Proposed — 5B category difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 470 (by altimeter) Route length: 510 m. Section lengths:

• V category difficulty — 120 m,
• VI category difficulty — 70 m.