As­cent Pass­port

1. Kola Penin­sula. Khibiny mo­untain range. "Poyasov" Cirque. Section num­ber of the clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble: №8.6
2. Name of the peak — Takhtarvumchorr — 1143 m, name of the route — "Down the cen­ter of the Poyasov wall".
3. Pro­posed — 6A cat. dif., first as­cent.
4. Na­ture of the route: rock.
5. Height dif­fer­ence of the route: 350 m (by al­ti­me­ter)

Length of the route: 400 m.

Length of sec­tions of V cat. dif. — 120 m, VI cat. dif. — 156 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: main part of the route — 88.5°, whole route — 83°. 6. Pitons left on the route: to­tal — 3; in­clud­ing bol­lard pitons — 2.

Pitons used: sta­tio­nary bol­lard pitons: 2 pcs.

To­tal ar­ti­fi­cial points of sup­port (APS) used: 105 points. Team's work­ing hours: 30 h.

8. Lead­er: An­dre­ev A.B. — CMS

Par­ti­ci­pants:

• Pan­kov M.A. — CMS
• Aфа­na­сь­ев V.Yu. — CMS

9. Coach: Shu­mi­lov O.I., MS

As­cent to the sum­mit: Sep­tem­ber 3, 2004.

Re­turn to base camp: Sep­tem­ber 3, 2004.

Route De­scrip­tion

From Vudyavr lake, ap­proach to "Poyasov" Cirque (di­rect vis­i­bil­ity) — 1.5 h. Un­der the wall it­self, a small lake. Ap­proach to the cen­ter of "Poyasov" wall — 30 min.

R0–R1: Up the slab, left of the wet over­hang — 45 m, 45°, IV cat. dif.

R1–R2: Up the wall with a crack, to the first "belt" — 20 m, 80°, V cat. dif. Belay sta­tion.

R3–R5: Up in­ter­nal cor­ners un­der a large, sharp over­hang. 30 m, 90°, VI+ cat. dif., A2 — up the over­hang­ing wall to the over­hang

In­con­ve­nient place for a belay sta­tion above the over­hang.

R3–R5: Up in­ter­nal cor­ners un­der a large, sharp over­hang.

• 30 m, 90°, VI+ cat. dif., A2 — up the over­hang­ing wall to the over­hang
• Sta­tio­nary bol­lard piton
• 7m, 95°, VI+­cat.­dif., A3e
• Sky­hooks

Good place for a belay sta­tion on the shelf, above the over­hang.

R5–R6: Up in­ter­nal cor­ners un­der a large over­hang, 90°–95°, VI+­cat.­dif., A2. Un­der the over­hang, an over­hang­ing wall 4m, 95°, VI+­cat.­dif., A2e. Sta­tio­nary bol­lard piton, con­trol cairn №2. By­pass­ing the over­hang to the right and exit to the wall to a slant­ing shelf. 10m, 90°, VI+­cat.­dif., A2. In­con­ve­nient place for a belay sta­tion.

R6–R7: By­pass­ing the over­hang, up the over­hang­ing wall, to the sec­ond "belt". 15m, 90°–95°, VI­cat.­dif., A2. Good place for a belay sta­tion.

R7–R8: Trav­erse left 15 m. II cat. dif. To a huge in­ter­nal an­gle. Above, un­der the over­hang, con­trol cairn №2 is vis­i­ble. Up the in­ter­nal an­gle

40 m, 95°, VI+ cat. dif., AЗe. Sky­hooks, re­mov­able bol­lard pitons.

R8–R9: Up a se­ries of walls, to the third "belt". 25 m, 80°–90°, V cat. dif.

Good place for a belay sta­tion on the shelf.

R9–R10: Up the in­ter­nal an­gle and wall. 35 m, 85°, V cat. dif.

R10–R11: Up the wall with a se­ries of cracks. 30 m, 85°, V cat. dif.

R11–R12: Up bro­ken rocks, exit to the sum­mit. 15 m, 60°, III cat. dif.

Con­trol cairn is laid out with stones.

On all "belts" over­night stays are pos­si­ble.

As­cents on the "Poyasov" wall are not rec­om­mended from mid-May to mid-July due to reg­u­lar rock­fall.

Since all large shelves have an abun­dance of moss, wa­ter flows down the wall. The cen­ter of the wall, up to the third belt, is wet.

UIAA scheme

De­scent from the sum­mit: down the right ridge of the cirque.

Emer­gency exit from the route:

• Along the as­cent path
• Left, along the "belts", to the couloir