Himalayas

Opportunities for solo ascents of unclimbed peaks in Nepal, permit regulations, and new summits open to alpinism in 2024.

A query from a reader (ExplorersWeb's reader — editor's note) planning a trip to Upper Mustang drew our attention to the hurdles independent climbers face when planning their Himalayan projects, especially solo ascents or attempts on unclimbed peaks in restricted areas. We reached out to a Nepalese tour operator for clarification on obtaining such permits. Q&A \ Matt Powell from the US asked: I was hoping you could provide me with some clarification regarding Nepal's rules for solo climbers, particularly in restricted areas such as Upper Mustang and the Nar Phu valley. Is it possible for a single climber (myself) to obtain a permit to climb a peak in a restricted area if I use the services of a Nepalese guide? And if so, how do I go about it? Dawa Stephen Sherpa clarified that it is possible. However, he added, the climber must obtain the permit through a registered and certified trekking agency in Nepal. The main question, however, lies in what permits the climber needs and what are the requirements for each. It turns out that it depends on the height of the peak and involves various permits and procedures. Expedition Peaks Peaks above 6,500 m are considered expedition peaks and require a permit and the presence of a sirdar/guide and liaison officer on the expedition, increasing the cost. Permits for these peaks are issued by the Department of Tourism, under the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation of Nepal. Once the climber has paid for the permit, the agency receives a letter from the Department of Tourism, which must be presented to the immigration department, issuing a second permit: the Restricted Area Permit (RAP). This allows the climber to enter the restricted zone at no additional cost, since they have already paid for the climbing permit.

Sasha Moroz shares his experience on the trek to Mera Peak and the summit ascent, and talks about his further plans to climb the west face.

In a beautiful video, Sasha Moroz describes his impressions of Nepal, and also talks in detail about the trek to Mera Peak via the pass , and the ascent to the summit. Further plans include climbing via the American Direct route on the west wall. Source: Moroz Mountains, Alexandr Moroz - Mountain Guide | Moroz Mountains

Nepal introduces new rules for climbing Everest: climbers must first ascend a 7,000-meter peak in Nepal to prevent inexperienced climbers from attempting the ascent.

New Everest Climbing Regulations: Climbing a 7,000-meter Peak in Nepal First is Now Mandatory Nepal's National Assembly has passed a new tourism bill that requires climbers to first ascend a 7,000-meter peak in Nepal before tackling Everest. This new regulation aims to deter inexperienced or unprepared climbers from attempting the mountain and to develop the expedition business in the country. Every year, new regulations are proposed for trekking and mountaineering in Nepal, and now they are on the verge of becoming national law. The requirement for climbers to have prior experience ascending a 7,000-meter peak in Nepal before attempting Everest is the most notable innovation. According to officials, this provision is designed to curb the growing number of inexperienced climbers attempting the world's highest peak, which often leads to congestion, accidents, and strain on rescue services. Nepal has 86 peaks between 7,000 and 7,999 meters, and the climbing fee for foreigners ranges from $500 to $800 during the spring season. Some of the rules outlined in the bill have also featured in other recent ordinances, such as the requirement to provide a recent medical certificate to obtain a climbing permit. The bill also lays the groundwork for a general environmental fund that will collect money from climbers.

### Everest Statistics as of December 2025 - **Total Ascents:** 13,737 - **Total Deaths:** 339 - Notable trends include a steady **increase in climbers** and **fatalities** - The role of **supplemental oxygen** and **Sherpa support** is significant.

Overall Statistics (as of December 2025) As of December 2025, there have been 13,737 summits of Everest, corresponding to a 43% success rate. Of those who reached the summit, 7,563 different people have stood on the top. 339 people have died on all routes. Nepal remains the more popular and more deadly side. 9,887 summits and 229 deaths were recorded on the Nepalese side, corresponding to a death rate of approximately 2.3%. On the Tibetan side, there were 3,850 summits and 110 deaths, a death rate of 2.8%. The use of supplemental oxygen remains one of the strongest predictors of survival. 180 of the 339 deaths occurred among climbers ascending without supplemental oxygen. Tibet or Nepal? The Nepalese side remains the most popular route and has recorded the highest absolute number of fatalities. The Tibetan side has recorded a slightly higher percentage of deaths — 2.8%, but a comparable normalized mortality rate — 1.05. Deaths Rise with the Number of Climbers Since 2000, Everest has experienced an unprecedented influx of climbers. 15,781 people climbed above Base Camp in Nepal from 2000 to 2025, nearly triple the total number for the previous 80 years. Throughout Everest's history (1921–2025), 339 people have died on the mountain. The average number of deaths increased to approximately seven deaths per year from 2010 to 2025. Standard Routes — 98% vs. Non-Standard Routes — 2%

Report on the ascent made by the team from the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing to Talai Sagar peak (6,904 m) via the buttress of the North face.

2016 Russian Mountaineering Championship High Altitude Category Report on the ascent of the Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation team to Thalay Sagar (6904 m) Via the counterfort of the North Face, "Moveable Feast" — first ascent, approximately 6B category difficulty. Senior coach: E.V. Kuznetsova Team leader: S.A. Nilov Thalay Sagar (6904 m) via the counterfort of the North Face "Moveable Feast" Ascent Details Ascent category: high altitude

First ascent of the north wall of Talai Sagar peak (6904 m) in the Indian Himalayas, cat. 6B, 1480 m height difference, 12 days on the route.

Passport Technical category. Indian Himalayas, Garhwal. Thalay Sagar peak (6904 m), via the center of the northern wall (“High Voltage”). Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. Elevation gain — 1480 m, total route length — 1815 m, including 1325 m of wall climbing. Length of sections by category of difficulty: 5th category — 305 m. 6th category — 920 m. Average steepness:

Report on the ascent of the CSKA MO RK team to the summit of Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) in the Himalayas in 2003.

Himalayas; Nanga Parbat (Diāmīr) 8126 m; Cat. difficulty — 6A; Route character — combined; Route height difference — 4026 m. Route length — 6500 m. Pitons used on the route: total — 35, left on the route — 35; Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Ice | Chocks | Friend | Firn | | :--: | :-: | :-: | :----: | :--: | :--: |

Report on the ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,125 m) via the Diamir Wall in 1997 with a detailed description of the route and team tactics.

PASSPORT High-altitude class Western Himalayas, Diamir gorge Nanga Parbat peak — 8125 m via Diamir Wall (Kinshofer route) Proposed 5B category of difficulty Elevation gain: from glacier — 3800 m, length — 4760 m. Length of 6A category sections — 120 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° (from camp at 5100 m to the summit). Steepness of the wall section (from 5400 to 6200 m) — 60°. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — 37.

Report on the first ascent of Rovaling Kang Shar 6645 m in the Nepalese Himalayas via a 6A grade route.

Report On the first ascent to the summit of Rowaling Kang Shar 6645 m, proposed 6A cat. sl., for the period from October 20, 2023 to October 23, 2023. I. Climbing Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader, date of birth | Koshilenko Yuri Vladimirovich, Honored Master of Sports in Alpinism, September 23, 1963 | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants, date of birth | Lonchinsky Alexey Sergeevich, Master of Sports in Alpinism, October 1, 1982 |

First ascent of the North Face of Everest via the centre, category 6B, mixed route, 2648 m of height difference, 5350 m long.

Ascent Passport High-altitude category. Himalayas, Tibet, China, Rongbuk Glacier. Everest 8848 m via the center of the North Face. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route elevation gain: 2648 m. Route length: 5350 m. Section length: Cat. diff. – 740 m, Cat. 1 diff. – 150 m. Average steepness of the main route section – 46°. Hooks left on the route: approximately 140; including pitons: 0. Hooks used on the route: more than 300. Total IT used: 40.