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Ascent Log

I. Ascent Class - High-altitude 2. Ascent Area - Pamir, Yazgulem Range 3. Object of Ascent - Peak Revolyutsii - 6974 m, first ascent from the Khabarviv-Khats glacier via the counterfort of the South Face 4. Estimated Difficulty Category - 5B 5. Route Characteristics:

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Yazgulyam-Dara valley.
3. Peak Revolyutsii, East summit (6930 m) via the South Ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 5A (estimated).
5. Height difference 1030 m, length — 2500 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 30 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 30/0 bolts 0/0

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USSR ARMED FORCES REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII – 6974 m VIA THE SOUTHWEST WALL FROM THE BARTANG VALLEY, MADE BY THE USSR ARMED FORCES TEAM IN 1968 1968 Fig. 2. Southwest wall of Pik Revolyutsii. The route taken is shown with a dotted line. The photo was taken from the summit of 6254 m. Photo #3. Southwest wall of Pik Revolyutsii. The team ascends via the southern ridge:

Ascent Passport

I. Class of ascent — high-altitude. 2. Region of ascent, ridge — Pamir, Yazgulem ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) via the south-west wall through the triangle. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6. 5. Characteristics of the route: altitude difference length of sections with 5–6 difficulty rating average steepness of the wall 6. Number of pitons driven: rock pitons — 357, ice screws — baling hooks —

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range
3. Pik Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via NW wall (Cherevko route), 2nd ascent
4. Category 6B
5. Route characteristics: | | | | | :---------------- | :----------------------------------------- | :-------------- | | elevation gain | | 1530 m | | length | | 3800 m |

REPORT

of the Uzbekistan Sports Committee team on the ascent of Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m via the NNW wall in the high-altitude class program of the USSR Climbing Championship. Tashkent, 1979 Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m, the sixth highest peak in the USSR, is located in the Central Pamir in the Yazgulem Range. The peak was first conquered on August 17, 1954, by a team led by A. Ugarov from the east. In the sixties, seven more routes were laid to the peak, one of which was along the left counterfort of the north wall, a kilometer-long sheer wall towering above the Fedchenko Glacier cirque. As early as 1968, photographs of this wall appeared in the team's archives, and we began to study them, examining the future object. In mid-July of this year, the team began transporting supplies to the area of operation. Equipment and provisions were dropped under the wall and at the Abdukagor Pass. The team was deployed, and a base camp was established on the Abdukagor Glacier at an altitude of about 3900 m. Upon distribution of the routes, our team was assigned the central part of the wall. A thorough study of the intended route was conducted, a clear, step-by-step tactical plan for the ascent was drawn up, and several descent options were developed, finalizing the team's composition. The wall is relatively rockfall-prone, and there are practically no places for overnight stays. To pass it mobilly, it was decided to go with one tent for five people. The team consisted of: Putintsev A.V. – captain Gromov L.V. – deputy captain

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — High-altitude 2. Ascent Region — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m via the center of the NNW wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — sixth 5. Route characteristics — height difference: wall — 140 m, route — 1674 m; average wall steepness — 63°; section lengths:

• III — 1200 m,
• IV — 320 m,

Pamir

Peak named after Oktyabrskaya Revolyutsiya (6974 m) north face (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of Leningrad High-altitude category

Team composition

1. Chunovkin G.A., MS — captain, coach
2. Borzov Yu.V., MS — deputy captain
3. Balyberdin V.S., CMS — participant
4. Temirov A.M., CMS — participant
5. Nosov A.P., CMS — participant

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Classification 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference, section length, category 6B difficulty, average steepness 6. Pitons driven: rock, ice 7. Number of travel hours