Passport

1. Class: High-altitude technical
2. Eastern Pamir, Kashgar Mountains (western China)
3. Peak Muztag-Ata (7546 m) via the western ridge, cat. diff. 5A
4. Proposed cat. diff. 5B (possibly the 3rd ascent by a purely Russian team)
5. Height difference — 3000 m, length — 9000 m, average slope — 20°
6. Used pitons, 6 ice screws
7. Climbing days — 3.5–5 (including descent to base camp)
8. Overnights:
   • 1st in tents on a rocky platform

1. Climbing Passport

1. Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Kunlun). Gorge: Chimgan. Section number according to the 1999 classification table No. 11.3
2. Name of the summit: Pik Kyzylsel Route name: via the eastern ridge from the South Chimgan Glacier.
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty
4. Route type: Ice and snow
5. Height difference of the route: 1685 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4712 m. Section length:

• 5th cat. diff. – 2 m

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude Class

2023

ASCENT REPORT

on the ascent to the peak of Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the center of the Southwest wall 6B category of difficulty (approximately), first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast. Period: 01.08.2023 – 07.08.2023

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Parfyonov A.A. (Master of Sports)
1.2	Full names, sports ranks of the team participants	Mukhametzyanov R.N. (Master of Sports), Sukharev A.Yu. (Candidate Master of Sports)

Report

On the Ascent to Kongur Peak (7719)

Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express") 6A category of difficulty (Third passage of the route)

1. Climbing Passport

1. Region: Kongur-Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Karayaylak Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 11.3
2. Summit name: Kongur. Route name: Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express")
3. Category of difficulty — 6A.

Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004

EURO-ASIAN ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING ASSOCIATION

11.3.6A

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent of Kongur Tagh (7719 m) at the Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004 Team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Vyacheslav V. Odokhovsky Expedition Leader: Yuri V. Khokhlov

11.3. 6А

ASCENT REPORT

1. Eastern Pamir, Kongurmustag Range (Kashgar)
2. Peak name: Kongur, 7719 m, route: North Ridge
3. Proposed category: 6A, second ascent
4. Route type: ice-snow
5. Height difference: 4000 m Route length: 6200 m Section length:

• Category 5: 1200 m

11.3.6

Ascent Certificate

1. Region: Eastern Pamir, China, Karayalak gorge, section 11.3 of the classification table.
2. Peak name: Kongur, 7719 m, route: via NW slope and N ridge.
3. Proposed - 6A category of complexity, first ascent, 2nd overall ascent.
4. Route type: ice-snow.
5. Route elevation gain: approx. 4000 m. Route length: approx. 11500 m. Length of sections with 5th category of complexity: 17 m. Average steepness:

Report on the First Ascent of Grosvenor Peak via the East Face, Presumably Category 6A 2011 Russian Mountaineering Championship in the High-Altitude Technical Class.

1. Region — Eastern Tibet, Sichuan Province, China
2. Grosvenor Peak (Grosvenor), 6376 m, ascent via the East Face
3. Proposed category: 6A, first ascent
4. Route type: Combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1080 m Route length: 1735 m

• Length of 2nd category sections — 700 m
• 4th category — 190 m

1. High-altitude and technical class
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, from the south (China).
3. Peak Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the south ridge (first ascent).
4. Cat. diff.: 5B–6A (approximately)
5. Height difference: ascent 4400–6873 m — 2473 m, descent 6873–4600 m — 2273 m. Total length — ascent — 4930 m (fixed ropes — 4130 m on ascent). Length of sections with 5–5+(6) cat. diff. — approximately 1340 m, 4 cat. diff. — approximately 1720 m, horizontal sections of the ridge — 1620 m. Average slope of the route — 40°, above the horizontal part of the ridge — 50–55°,

11.3.8

1. ROUTE PASSPORT
1	Region	Kongur Muztagh Range
2	Valley	Karakul Lake
3	Number of section according to the classification table
	1999 year
4	Name of the peak	Aklangam
5	Name of the route	via SW edge of SE ridge
6	Route difficulty assessment	4B cat. diff.	First ascent