Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — Rock climbing II. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Hissar mountain range III. Ascent route — Zamin Karor peak, 3709 m, R0–R3 summit via the center of the West wall IV. Ascent characteristics elevation gain — 1150 m (total route elevation gain), steepness — 80° length of difficult sections — 940 m, including the lower rock belt — 1400 m) V. Pitons used: rock — 204, ice — none, bolted — 4

USSR Alpine Climbing Championship

Rock Climbing Category

Pamir-Alay

Gissar Ridge

D-3 peak Zamin Karor

1. Climbing category - rock climbing
2. Climbing area - Pamir-Alay, Hissar mountain range
3. Climbing route - first ascent via the left part of the western wall's couloir, SW peak of Zamin-Karor
4. Climbing characteristics elevation gain - 1200 m average steepness - 86° length of challenging sections - 1001 m
5. Pitons used: rock pitons - 153 chocks - 79

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 103 Zamin-Karor, 3707 m, via the left part of the western wall's kar, V. Popov route 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 972 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 992 m, average steepness — 84°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay/ETO rock — 143/35 ice — 0/0 bolt — 2/1

Passport

I. Category of Rock Climbing Ascensions 2. Gissar Ridge, Zamin Karor South-Western 3. Zamin Karor South-Western peak via the Western wall 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference 860 m, route length 890 m Length of sections:

• Category 5 difficulty: 520 m, average steepness 79.23°
• Category 6 difficulty: 180 m, average steepness 86.7°

6. Pitons hammered in:

10. Znachokist from the White Pyramid circus, route 16 cat. diff., fig. 5.

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the White Pyramid's East Glacier, under the slopes of the Siama Crown peaks, approach the Nishon pass — between the peaks IV of the Siama Crown and Znachokist. The approach takes about an hour. When traversing all the peaks of the Siama Crown, be cautious as the couloirs descending from the peak are rockfall-prone. When ascending to the Nishon pass, exit to the left of the first sharp gendarme. Bypassing it on the left and not reaching the second gendarme on this ridge, traverse the slope to the left on the snow. Approach the couloir descending from the peak's ridge along the slope. Ascend the ridge on the left side of the couloir for 25–30 m and then along the inclined slab. Ascend to the peak along the simple rock on the ridge. The peak is not characteristically pronounced. The ascent from the pass to the peak takes about an hour. The descent from the peak is north along the ridge. After 8–10 minutes, turn sharply west and descend along the snow patch into the White Pyramid's East Glacier circus. Then turn south and exit to the moraine to the bivouac under the slopes of the Siama Crown peaks. The ascent takes 5 hours.

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Ascent to the top of Znachkist

from the Siamy circus — 2A cat. dif. The approach to the summit from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siamy River passes along the right-hand (in the direction of travel) lateral moraine to the terminal moraine of the glacial circus. The glacier is now absent. The ascent to the moraine and movement along the moraine occurs along a stream, leading to the foot of the summit. The ascent to the summit goes along a wide snow couloir descending from the saddle (Nishon pass between the IV peak of the Siamy Crown and the Znachkist peak). It is recommended to pass through early in the morning and under the cover of the rocks on the left side of the couloir, as stonefall is possible. In the middle part of the couloir: transition to the right, movement along the talus, snow is possible. In the upper part, the couloir opens widely into the slope. The slope is composed of inclined smooth slabs, partially covered with talus. The ascent from the snowfield to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. To reach the saddle, go left of the first pointed gendarme. Bypassing it on the left and not approaching the second gendarme on this saddle, traverse the slope to the left along the snow. Along the slope, approach a barely noticeable couloir descending from the ridge of the Znachkist peak. The ascent to the ridge goes along the left side of the couloir for 25–30 m and leads to an inclined slab. Traversing it to the right, ascend to the ridge. The further path along the ridge is along rocks of medium difficulty. The length of the section is 80–90 m. The summit is not characteristically pronounced. The ascent from the pass to the summit takes about 1 hour.

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Description of the Traverse

V. Igizak (2A cat. dif.) V. Igizak is located in the southern spur of the Gissarsky Ridge and is the 20th peak to the west of the M. Igizak pass (the first from the pass is v. M. Igizak). From the overnight stay on the green meadow located under v. Bivachnaya, it is necessary to move up along the right bank of the Igizak river in the direction of the M. Igizak pass. The path goes along grassy slopes and scree, and after an hour's walk, you can approach the snowfields under the M. Igizak pass. To the right, a snow corrie diverges, along which you should ascend into the cirque of the Dvukhzubki and Igizak peaks. This ascent takes about an hour. From the east, the peak drops off with sheer rock walls of 500–600 m. By bypassing v. Igizak (leaving it to the left), you should exit onto its southwest ridge. The ascent to the summit from the ridge is combined (rock and snow), technically simple, and takes 30–40 min. The height of the peak above sea level is about 4200 m. The descent from the summit can be made along the Southeast ridge, starting from the southwest subsidiary summit, from where you should first descend for 15–30 min. along a narrow couloir with further exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge, the path goes with alternate belay with a predominant exit to the right along the way. There are several short rock walls that can be passed with alternate belay. The further path passes along the ledges, to the right along the way with uncomplicated rocks, and leads to the Nayzakhba pass, from where we descend to the overnight stay. The entire traverse of v. Igizak from the overnight stay on the green meadow and back takes 6–7 hours.