Ascents

1. Ascent class: Technical ascent class.
2. Ascent area, peak: Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (53)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zamok peak, height 5070 m, ascent route via the West face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference
   • length of sections 5–6

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range, Alauddin valley
3. p. Zamok, 5070 m, via West Face, Ilyin V. route
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Height difference: 650 m. Length: 1330 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 52°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 300–350 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Nuts | Friends |

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range, Alauddin valley
3. p. Zamok, 5070 m, via West wall, Ilyin V. route
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Elevation gain: 650 m. Distance: 1330 m. Average slope of the main part of the route 52° Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 300–350 m.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Sports organization: Kazakh Climbers' Club. 2. Ascent category: high-altitude, technically challenging. 3. Assault leader: Venckovskiy Gennadiy Zdislavovich. 1st sports category — 31 years old. 4. Participants: Akchurin, Marat Khasanovich, 1st sports category; Vereshchagin, Sergey Igorevich, 1st sports category; Il'inskiy, Aleksandr Fedorovich — 1st sports category. 5. Peak name, height: p. Zamok, 5070 m. 6. Geographic area: Pamiro-Alay, Fan Mountains. 7. Route: NW edge, rock. 8. Route height: 1445 m.

REPORT

on the ascent to the Zamok peak via the northwestern edge (G. Venckovsky's route, 68), category 5A, from August 1, 2019, to August 2, 2019.

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Merkurieva V.A. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Zhdanov I.M. — 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach
1.4	Organization
2.	Characteristics of the ascent object

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Region: Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Zamok, 5070 m, via Central Wall 4. Presumed Difficulty Category: 5B, first ascent 5. Route Characteristics: total height difference 860 m, average steepness 64°, including technical sections 76°, route length 1215 m, and sections with technical difficulty (m) 1 — 300, 2 — 30, 3 — 150, 4 — 250, 5 — 372, 6 — 113 6. Pitons Driven: for protection, removable + закладки 134, ice screw

V. Zamok, 5B, via the shortest path up the NNE wall (A. Plotnikov's route, 82)

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai. Eastern Fan Mountains, Zamok peak (5070 m) — via the shortest path up the NNE wall
3. Proposed complexity category — 5B
4. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m. Length of the wall section — 1115 m. Total route length — 1675 m. Length of sections with V–VI category difficulty — 690 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°
5. Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belay | ITO |

Fann Mountains

Ascent to v. Zamok via NNE wall (first ascent - approximately 5B category)

1970

Technical photograph of the route

The Zamok peak is located in the Eastern Fann Range in the north-west of Tajikistan. Climbers usually approach the peak from the Alauddin Lakes area. This is one of the most beautiful places in the USSR, frequently visited by tourists. A large number of objects interesting for mountaineering and stable good weather attract climbers. In the summer season of 1970, base camps of climbers from Moscow, Leningrad, Kiev, Dubna, and Ivano-Frankivsk were set up near a large lake. Climbers usually get to the Alauddin Lakes from Dushanbe by car. The car goes through the Anzob Pass to the Pasrud village (sometimes a more powerful car can make it further 1.5-2 km to the Mayguzor village). If necessary, they stop at the Varzob alpine camp on the way. From there, they take a mule trail (about 25 km) up the Pasrud and Chapdara rivers to the lakes. The total travel time is:

• 8-9 hours by car
• 5-7 hours on foot or by mule

ASCENSION DOCUMENT

1. Class of ascension: technical
2. Area of ascension: Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. Zamok, 5070 m, via N.N.E. wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B rated, second ascent
5. Route characteristics: total altitude difference 1230 m, average steepness of the route 71°, including technical parts 78°, route length 1868 m and sections of cat. diff. (m): 1 — 130, 2 — 160, 3 — 120,

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, East Fan Range 3. Zamok (5070 m) — via the shortest path on the NNE wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 5B 5. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m Length of the wall section — 1115 m. Total route length — 1675 m. Length of sections with VI category difficulty — 890 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67° 6. Pitons used:

• Rock pitons: III/5
• Bolt pitons: 2