Замок

Peak5,020 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the first ascent of Zamok Peak via Central Bastion of the West Wall in the Fann Mountains, difficulty category 5A-5B.

Ascent Record

  1. Ascent category — technical
  2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains
  3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations — Zamok peak via the central bastion of the Western wall, 5103 m.
  4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 650 m, average steepness — 60°, length of the difficult section — 23 m and 160 m.
  5. Pitons used: rock — 104, ice — 0, bolt — 3.
  6. Total climbing hours — 27 hours.
  7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — two, good, water and snow available.
  8. Team name — LOK DSO "Zenit".
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification — Oshe E.A. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports, Popov V.I. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, Litvinov A.N. — participant, 1st sports category, Rybakov M.I. — participant, 1st sports category, Polyakov G.A. — participant, 1st sports category, Eltyshev A.I. — participant, 1st sports category.
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Ascent to the summit of Zamok (5070 m) along the NNE buttress of the wall, category of difficulty 5B, done in 18h 20min with one overnight stay at the rock.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class - technical.
  2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route - Zamok Peak. H = 5,070 m. Via the E counterfort of the NNE wall. 2nd ascent.
  4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference - 970 m, average steepness - 60–70°.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating ITO a) rock - 86 13 b) ice - — —
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Climbing route description to Zamok peak (5070 m) via the eastern counterforce of NNE wall in Pamir-Alay, category of difficulty 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zamok, 5070 m, via the Eastern counterfort of the NNE wall, third ascent
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: route length: 1100 m, height difference: 900 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections: fifth category – 280 m, sixth category – 35 m
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock 106, ice 2, bolt 1 (used someone else's)
  7. Number of climbing hours: 18 hours, climbing days – two
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
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Description of a Category 5B climbing route to the summit of Zamok (5070 m) via the eastern spur of the north-eastern face in the Zarafshan Range, Pamir-Alay.

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range.
  3. Peak — Zamok, 5070 m
  4. Route name — via the E counterfort of the NNE wall.
  5. Difficulty category — 5B, presumed.
  6. Height difference — 9000 m, approximately.
  7. Average steepness — 65–70°.
  8. Pitons driven rock — 103 ice — 13
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Climbing report of LGSDSO "Spartak" team to the Zamok peak via the North-Eastern wall in the Fann Mountains, category of difficulty 5B, climbed in 2 days with two nights bivouac.

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents. 2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains. 3. V. Zamok, 5070 m, via the center of the northeast wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1000 m, route length — 1646 m, including wall section — 886 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 586 m, including sections with 6 cat. diff. — 268 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 80°. 6. Pitons hammered:

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Description of a 5B category climb to the summit Zamok (5070 m) via the north-eastern wall in the East Fan Mountains range, Pamiro-Alai.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Eastern Fan Range 3. Zamok (5070 m) — via the shortest path from the wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 5B 5. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m Length of the wall section — 1115 m Total route length — 1675 m Length of sections with IV–VI complexity category — 890 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°

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