Ascent to Tsyndyshko 2nd North peak via the North edge

Group composition

1. Gorshenev K.A. — 1st sports category — leader, participant
2. Gorbachevsky A.D. — 1st sports category, instructor (No. 2584)
3. Volkovsky V.Z. — 2nd sports category, participant
4. Semenov M.I. — 2nd sports category, participant.

Day one (approach to the route)

April 28, 1974 Departure from the base camp at Kardyvach lake at 15:00, upwards along the right bank (in the direction of travel) of the Upper Mzymta river to a group of large boulders beneath the walls of Layub Eastern peak. Then, upwards to the right across a wide snowy slope with rocky outcrops, leading to a saddle beneath Northern Tsyndyshko peak. The journey from the base camp takes 3–3.5 hours. Overnight stay on the saddle. From here, the beginning of the route is visible. This part of the path was prepared: steps were trodden to the ridge connecting to Northern Tsyndyshko peak.

Day two

REPORT on the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshho Main via the Western counterfort in the period from April 29 to 30, 1974, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society (Route complexity category — 3B)

Description of the ascent to Mt. Tsyndyshho Main (3210 m) via the Western counterfort

Group composition:

1. Khoruzhik O.V. — 1st sports category — leader
2. Shklyaev E.V. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
3. Gerasyuk A.K. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
4. Kovalevsky V.A. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
5. Akhtyrsky O.A. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant

First day — April 29, 1974

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshko Malaya via the northwestern counterfort in the period from April 29 to 30, 1976, by a group assembled by the Krasnodar City Committee for Physical Culture and Sports.

Route Description

From the base camp at Lake Kardyvach, head up the Upper Mzymta River to the start of the ascent up steep snowy slopes leading to the cirque between Tsyndyshko Yuzhnaya peak and Tsyndyshko Malaya peak. Staying in the central part of the cirque (avalanches!), move in the direction of Tsyndyshko Pass until the second snow couloir on the right, which leads to a clearly defined saddle on the counterfort of Tsyndyshko Malaya peak. The time taken to reach the couloir from the camp is 2.5–3 hours. Ascent up the couloir (2.5–3 ropes) with a steepness of 30 to 60° in the upper part, then up a steep snowy ridge to beneath a 4-meter rock wall (moderate climbing, 1 piton). Then, exit via sloping snowy slabs and a snowy ridge to beneath the first "gendarme". It is climbed directly "head-on" (moderate climbing). From the "gendarme", a sport rappel (1 rope) down to a snowy saddle with a separate rocky "finger". From the saddle, follow the ridge, then up a 3-meter rock wall (moderate climbing, 1 piton) and via an internal corner on its right-hand side, exit onto a snowy "knife-edge" (1 rope). A steep rocky ascent on the ridge (second "gendarme") is bypassed on the left via a steep, sloping snowy ledge (1 rope, 2 pitons). Then, ascend the rocky ridge to a platform beneath the sub-summit. The sub-summit is reached with alternate belays on the right-hand side of the ridge (cornice 1). From the sub-summit, descend to a broad depression in the ridge and, via simple, broken rocks (2 ropes), ascend to the summit. The time taken to complete the route from exiting beneath the couloir is 5–6 hours. The descent via the ascent route takes 2–3 hours, depending on the condition of the route.

Ascent Passport

Climb category — technical. Region of ascent — Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach plateau. Route of ascent — Mt. Tsyndyshko Malaya (3010 m) via the Northwest buttress, category 2A difficulty. Characteristics of ascent — route is combined.

• total elevation gain of the route — 350–400 m
• average steepness of the route — 30–35°
• number of climbing hours (from camp to camp) — 10–12 hours. Team name — group of climbers from Krasnodar city committee on physical culture and sports. Team composition —
• Ponimatko Oleg Ivanovich — team leader, 1st sports category, alpinism instructor
• Semenov Mikhail Ivanovich — 1st sports category

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category—
2. Climbing region— Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake.
3. Climbing route — Tsynдышхо Northern via the north-eastern ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1,252 m average slope of ascent — 40° length of difficult sections —
5. Pitons driven:
   • rock —

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshko North via the North wall, May 5-7, 1972, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society

Group Composition

1. AKHTYRSKY O.A. — CMS — team leader 2. GERASYUK A.K. — CMS — participant 3. BEZRUKAVNIKOV A.I. — 1st sports category — « — 4. SOVENKOV V.S. — 2nd sports category — « —

Approach to the Initial Bivouac

From Adler to Lake Ritsa by bus. Then to Avadhara settlement, 4-5 hours on foot or 30 minutes by car (depending on road conditions). Overnight stay.

Ascent Passport

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp at Kardyvach Lake, ascend along the Mzymta River to the steep ascent to the plateau under Smidovikha Peak (1 hour). Up to the right onto the plateau and further to the 9th pass (1.5 hours). From here, descend and then, traversing the slopes of the Gl. Tsyndyshho massif, exit under the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West. The base of the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West is represented by three steep, converging buttresses. The route follows the leftmost one, as the most logical and safe.

Brief Explanation for the Table

The route begins up a steep snow-ice couloir between the left and central buttresses of the Eastern ridge (R0–R1). Then, up to the left across steep, snow-covered rock slabs — exit onto the left buttress of the Eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West (R1–R2). The route then logically follows the edge of the buttress (R2–R3, R3–R4). Climbing is quite difficult in places. The rocks are steep and highly smoothed in places. The R4–R5 section is a gentle, narrow rock ridge with two small but steep gendarmes, which are climbed head-on. At the start of this section, the first control cairn is built. At the end of the ridge, there is a short wall ending in a ledge where a tent can be set up (R5–R6). From here, straight up a sheer wall (R6–R7). There are very few holds, and climbing is difficult. At the end of the section, the second control cairn is built. The large black gendarme is climbed straight up (R7–R8), with free climbing. Sections R8–R9, R9–R10 are climbed with alternate belays through an ice axe. On section R9–R10, there are many large snow cornices. At the end of R9–R10, there is a wide snow corrie. From the snow corrie, straight up snow-covered rocks — exit onto the main ridge of V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R10–R11). Here, the route converges with route 2B cat. sl. on V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R11–R12). The ascent took 12 hours.

1: CATEGORY OF ASCENT: 2. REGION OF ASCENT 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT AND ASCENT ROUTE 4 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE AVERAGE STEEPNESS LENGTH OF SEC. 6. NUMBER OF PITO­NS FOR BELAY (ROCK) 7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS 8. FULL NAME OF LEADER AND PARTICIPANTS: 9. TEAM COACH

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Ascent route: traverse of Tsyndyshko: Northern 3102 m, 2nd Northern 3107 m, Main 3210 m, South-Western 3150 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A
5. Pitons driven: rock: 32 (including chocks) ice: 4 bolt: –