Двойняшка, Западная

The first ascent of the northwest wall of the Zapadnaya Dvoynanka peak via the "Sargol wall" variant with the exit to the spot via the north wall in 1965.

37 WESTERN DVONYASHKA via the Western wall with an exit to the shoulder along the Northern wall July 19-26, 1965 www.alpfederation.ru Introduction I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics The Dvoynyashka massif (3900 m) rises as a separate double-peaked tower in the chain of peaks along the Main Caucasian Range: Kirpich–Dallar–Dvoynyashka–Zamok. The northern slopes of the massif, which are steeply sloping walls with an average steepness of 70–80°, feed the large Kichkinokol glacier, from which the Uzunkol river originates. The southern slopes are also steep and more eroded.

Report on the traverse of Dalar - Dvoynyashka - Zamok peaks with the first ascents of the western wall of Dalar and the "edge" of Dvoinyashka in 1968.

REPORT ON TRAVERSE OF PEAKS DALAR — DVOINYASHKA — ZAMOK ascent to Dalar via western wall to Dvoinyashka along the "edge" first ascent July — August 1968 Table of Contents

Description of the traverse of the Western and Eastern peaks of [Verina dvojnyashka](3800 m) with a detailed route map and technical details.

Dvoinyashka Peak — 3800 m Traversing the Western and Eastern peaks (Description of the route as you move towards the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the first koshi, cross the bridge to the left bank, and follow the trail to a large talus accumulation in the gorge. After the talus, follow the riverbank to the start of the ascent up the left, grey, large moraine. Ascend along the ridge to a clearly defined confluence of two moraine ridges. From here, descend left from the moraine via a trail and ascend a grassy slope to a terrace, then continue up slopes and scree to reach the large-boulder moraine. Cross it to reach the Dalar Glacier plateau. Crossing the plateau, approach the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend a snowy slope to a terrace before a steep snowy ascent (80 m, 50°). In rope teams, ascend to the bergschrund — cross via a bridge and a gap (belay!). Beyond the bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the Dalar pass. There are platforms on the rocks. From the camp, it takes 5.5–6 hours. From the Dalar pass, descend left and down, bypassing the southern ridge of Dalar Peak, and follow the scree left of the "ram's foreheads" to the upper part of the cirque between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks, to the 1st narrow couloir on the left. Ascend the couloir (in rope teams!) 50 m up and exit to a scree terrace. From the terrace, go right through a snowpatch and then along the "ram's foreheads" (belay!) — exit right and below the saddle between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks. From here, traverse right along a large terrace, through a snowpatch, to a rocky outcrop, and from it descend to a depression in the southern ridge of the Western Dvoinyashka peak. Ascend 50 m straight up along broken rocks to the base of the ridge — a bivouac site. From the Dalar pass, it takes 4 hours.

Description of the passage of a 5E category route on the western wall of the Double West summit in the Western Caucasus in 1983 by a group led by Sergei Bayakin.

Category II Ascent I. Rock Class. Western Caucasus. Dvoynyashka Zap. peak, 3743 m, via 10В wall, second ascent. Category of difficulty — 5Е. Height difference — 650 m, total route length — 1050 m, length of sections with 5 — 6 category of difficulty — 500 m. Average steepness — 78° Pitons hammered — (for belay / for creating I.T.O. / rock ice bolt anchors) 55/18 0/0 4/2 88/26 Number of climbing hours — 21, days — 2.

Report on the second ascent of the route with category 5 difficulty level to the summit of Dvoinyashka Zapadnaya via the northwest wall spur.

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION. Report ON THE ASCENT OF V. DVONYASHKA WEST VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE. CATEGORY 5B. SECOND ASCENT RSFSR TEAM 650, 1050 gr., 500, 79°, 58 vsk, 18 sm, 1/2, 2/6, 88 zam. 21 hours, 2 days. Balkin S.G., Baezin V.V., Bogachev A.V., Bogomaz V.V., Zakharov N.N., Chentsov S.V. (Kr-n) February 6-7, 1983.

### First Ascent First ascent of the south-eastern wall of Zapadnaya Dvoynyashka in 1953 by a group from Krasnoyarsk "Spartak" led by N.G. Vodarchik, rated at 5B difficulty level.

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation Western Dvoynyashka peak via the south-eastern wall, category 5B, first ascent Team from Krasnoyarsk "Spartak" Coach: MS ROZHKOV V.V. VLODARCHIK N.G. - team leader Team members: ROZHKOV V.V. VORONKOV D.A. PRUSAKOV S.M.

Report on the ascent of the Spartak MCS team to the summit of Dvoynyashka via the north-north-west wall, category 5B complexity in 1973.

To the championship of Moscow 1973 TWIN PEAKS VIA NORTH-NORTH-WEST FACE 5B cat. dif. (Western Caucasus) Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering Team of Moscow City Council of Spartak Volunteer Sports Society Kavunenko V.D. — Master of Sports of the USSR — team leader Parfenov V.P. — Candidate for Master of Sports Pozdnyakov A.A. — 1st sports category Ivanov N.V. — 1st sports category July 18–24, 1973

Ascent certificate for the summit Dvoynyashka 3830m via the Eastern Ridge, difficulty category 5A, a combined route of 1490m in length.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class - rock II. Ascent area - W. Caucasus from Klukhor Pass to Azau Pass. III. Peak - Dvoynyshka 3830 m. East peak. IV. Proposed difficulty category - 5A V. Route character - combined. VI. Route characteristics: height difference - 940 m. route length - 1490 m. incl. snow-ice sections - 1150 m.

Description of the ascent route to the summit Vostochnaya Dvoynyashka (3830 m) via the eastern ridge, category of difficulty 5A, in the Western Caucasus.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class — rock Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Klukhor Pass to Chipperazau Pass Peak — Vostochnaya Dvoynyashka, 3830 m Estimated difficulty category — 5A Route character — combined Route characteristics: a) height difference 840 m b) length of sections with 4th cat. diff. 340 m c) length of sections with 5th cat. diff. 320 m