![img-0.jpeg]({"0": "width": 753, "height": 621, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/XjFEEecR0szAcq3IJwcyHTu7LfdyF9j7/img-0.jpeg↗", "id": 64745172})

REPORT ![img-1.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1376, "height": 131, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/0CM2EsSyu3RvBTLu8U5afLDlPPVJ90Dm/img-1.jpeg↗", "id": 64745173})

ON TRAVERSE OF PEAKS

DALAR — DVOINYASHKA — ZAMOK

• ascent to Dalar via western wall
• to Dvoinyashka along the "edge"
• first ascent

July — August 1968

Table of Contents

1. Introduction. Brief characteristics of the area. .................... 1
2. Supply trip and reconnaissance ......................................... 5
3. Tactical plan of traverse ................................. 6
4. Completing the assault team ........................... 11
5. Route progress by day; photos and sketches of the route. ...... 13
6. Table of main route characteristics ................... 39
7. Profile scheme of the route ................................. 42
8. Characteristics of participants and team photo. .......... 43
9. Support team, its composition and tasks ................ 45
10. Appendices ................................................ 47

Introduction. Brief characteristics of the area.

In 1967, a team of Rostov alpinists from the "Lokomotiv" society visited Uzunkol. The area is located to the southwest of Elbrus and is characterized by good, stable weather, a milder climate, and less glaciation than the central regions of the Caucasus, although frequent rains, snowfalls, and thunderstorms in the 1967–1968 seasons negated all the advantages of this area over the Central Caucasus. Most of the Uzunkol peaks have rock routes, with monolithic rocks that are very complex. The height of the peaks is relatively low: up to 4000 m. That year, we managed to climb Dolomit peak and traverse Dvoinyashka peak. From these routes, a majestic picture of the formidable walls of Dalar and Dvoinyashka unfolded, which could not leave an alpinist's heart calm and naturally attracted our attention. We were especially struck and attracted by the so-called "edge" of Dvoinyashka with its proud beauty and inaccessible appearance. The "edge" was also alluring because of the legends and rumors that circulated in Uzunkol about attempts to conquer it. For example, Yakovin's group went aside along the ledges, intending to climb the "edge", and K.P. Rotstaev's group did not attempt it during their traverse of the Kichkinekol horseshoe. By the way, describing this traverse, K. Rotstaev noted that "the ascent along the 'edge' is tempting but very complex; it would be quite suitable for a technical application…" ("Conquered Peaks 1961–1964", p. 153).

Next to Dvoinyashka stands the handsome Dalar, whose most complex routes do not need recommendations. There was also a wall on Dalar that no one had yet climbed; its appearance inspired respect and sparked a desire to test one's strength against it. And, of course, we could not help but focus on the Zamok peak — a very unique peak that tries to compete in beauty with its famous neighbors: Dvoinyashka and Dalar. Thus, the idea of a traverse with the first ascent of two walls: the western wall of Dalar and the "edge" of Dvoinyashka, was born. The overall harmony, beauty, and logic of the route were also attractive.

Therefore, it is understandable with what joy we received B.D. Aptekman's proposal, our mentor and senior comrade, to undertake the aforementioned traverse in the summer of 1968. We found photographs of the "edge" and the western wall of Dalar. Now they firmly occupied a place on our desks. Preparation was underway…

Map — scheme of traverse of peaks

• DALAR — DVOINYASHKA — ZAMOK ![img-2.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1654, "height": 1840, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/GNf2cKrnTWmKekFgiFMo5F0APj8TMeYB/img-2.jpeg↗", "id": 64745174}) ![img-3.jpeg]({"0": "width": 145, "height": 152, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/Z2zLvEHX0JiPgWO4HO0v8N4ZSADnxfs7/img-3.jpeg↗", "id": 64745175})

![img-4.jpeg]({"0": "width": 145, "height": 422, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/vZLHcI750VtFT4Xt2VZAveo8sVWRyIyV/img-4.jpeg↗", "id": 64745176})

![img-5.jpeg]({"0": "width": 824, "height": 1298, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/rcsYVQmOp2rJOzZ3oGMlRp5oZF4OYiEU/img-5.jpeg↗", "id": 64745177})

Western wall of Dalar

![img-6.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1905, "height": 1378, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/sNGws9qbHbq91NI9Y9VpAzCgSw7VuCIY/img-6.jpeg↗", "id": 64745178})

DVOINYASHKA 448 TERRITORY 097/53 DALARA

On the same day, we descended back to the ridge and placed the supplies in a shelter. The next day, July 22, in rather bad weather, we descended from the ridge, crossed the Dalar pass, and on the same day arrived at the "Uzunkol" alpine camp.

Tactical plan of traverse

The tactical plan for the traverse was developed by the team together with coach G.M. Maslov in the winter, and this plan was actually the foundation on which all preliminary organizational measures were built, and all preparation for the future passage of the planned route was done.

We planned to ascend to the Dalar peak on the fourth day of work, not counting the day of approach, spend a day traversing the ridge from the Dalar peak to the ridge between the Dalar and Western Dvoinyashka peaks — the approach under the "edge". Then we planned to use a day to process the "edge" and on the next day, the whole team would set out on the "edge" to ascend to the Western Dvoinyashka peak in two days. We allocated three days for the section of the route from the Western Dvoinyashka peak to the Zamok peak and further down to the camp. We "planned" four days for bad weather. In total, according to our calculations, the traverse was to take 11 working days.

Upon arrival at the "Uzunkol" alpine camp, we learned that a group from the alpine camp had climbed the western wall of Dalar peak in 3 working days. Considering that our group consisted of six people, we expected to take a day longer to climb the wall.

During the ascent, some adjustments were made to the team's tactical plan. As a result of the team's coordinated actions and the route being in slightly better condition than when the "Uzunkol" alpine camp group passed, our team climbed Dalar's wall in 3 days, not 4. Additionally, due to a sharp deterioration in the weather, we were unable to start processing the "edge" the next day after its initial processing, and the whole group passed the already processed "edge" only after a 5-day wait. The passage of the "edge" took 1 day.

This slightly changed the location of the planned next overnight stay, and instead of camping on the ridge between the Western Dvoinyashka and Eastern Dvoinyashka peaks, we camped on the Western Dvoinyashka peak.

The further movement corresponded exactly to the previously planned schedule. Overall, as planned, the traverse took us 11 working days.

The almost complete coincidence of the actual route passage with the previously developed tactical plan confirmed its correctness and greatly facilitated the accomplishment of the task, as the entire organization and preparation for the traverse were naturally carried out entirely in accordance with this plan.

The team's tactics were as follows:

• Quickly pass the western exit from the Dalar peak with a minimum load and approach the ridge between the Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks.
• Process the "edge", possibly delaying for 1–2 days under the "edge" due to its high complexity or bad weather.
• Then, again, try to travel as lightly as possible and complete the remaining part of the traverse.

The organizational issues of preparation for the traverse were resolved accordingly.

A minimum of equipment was selected to ensure a normal, safe passage of Dalar's wall. In addition to the usual pitons, we took:

• 30 drill pitons;
• 4 drills;
• 1 platform;
• 5 three-step ladders.

The weight of the food ration per person per day was 960 g (see ration No. 1). Considering the terrain of the wall and the natural conditions of the area, we took 3 "zdarkas" and down jackets. Sleeping bags and a tent were decided not to be taken.

The small weight of backpacks and a sufficient amount of necessary equipment allowed us to pass this part of the route quite quickly.

On the ridge between the Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks, we "cached" "pamirka", about 60 ordinary and 270 drill pitons, 4 platforms, and 10 ladders (2–3-step + 1 five-meter). Additionally, there were 8 liters of gasoline and a large amount of food.

Some of the food (see ration No. 2) was intended for the team's nutrition during their stay on the "shoulder" before the "edge".

Another part (see ration No. 3) was to be used during the passage of the "edge" and further until the end of the traverse.

A large quantity of "cached" food and gasoline was very useful, as bad weather delayed the team before the "edge" for 4 days. Ration No. 3 and 3 liters of gasoline remained untouched and were used during the continuation of the traverse after the bad weather.

There, on the ridge, we prepared for the passage of the "edge":

• two 90-meter main ropes;
• one 90-meter auxiliary rope.

With the help of the 90-meter main and auxiliary ropes, we were able to pull up backpacks twice for 85–90 m, reducing the number of "transfers" and shortening the time for pulling up.

Later, during descents:

• from the Eastern Dvoinyashka peak;
• from the Zamok peak

the presence of "extra" ropes greatly accelerated our movement.

Descents were also facilitated by the use of so-called "eights", which greatly simplified the descent process and helped conserve strength.

For safer and faster pulling up of backpacks, a rappel cord was attached to each, connecting the ring and straps, so the process of attaching the rope to the backpack was reduced to clipping the carabiner to the rappel cord. For quick identification, backpacks were numbered with oil paint on the flaps, from No. 1 to No. 6.

For drilling pitons, we used drills combined with a "grusha", allowing us to blow out the hole in the wall without removing the drill.

Overall, the organization of food and equipment preparation corresponded to the complexity of the route. Everything was done with a large margin of safety and taking into account various possible scenarios that could arise during the traverse.

We also believe that the chosen tactics for the route passage were fully justified and contributed to the successful completion of the traverse, despite very unfavorable meteorological conditions.

In addition to the above, it can be noted that the route is characterized by a large number of cracks suitable for driving pitons; moreover, horizontal pitons 8–10 cm long are most often used. The "Uzunkol" alpine camp group hammered about a dozen drill pitons on the western wall of Dalar peak, so a team climbing the wall in the first half of July, when the rocks are still partially covered with ice, needs to have some drill pitons.

It should be noted that there is no place to set up a tent along the entire western wall of Dalar peak, except perhaps on the "triangle" peak, where you still need to build a platform (not counting, of course, the huge pre-summit ledge). But a group of 4–6 people can find enough platforms for overnight stays in "zdarkas".

On the "edge", it is not possible to organize even a sitting overnight stay. Hammocks or platforms are necessary. On the ridge between the Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks, as well as between the Dvoinyashka and Zamok peaks, there are comparatively many places for tents.

In conclusion, it can be said that overall, the traverse was a serious test and verification of all our many years of alpinist training. The complexity of the route, its beauty, and all the obstacles we had to overcome gave us immense satisfaction, and we are happy that our team coped with all technical and other difficulties, happy that those many years we dedicated to our beloved sport — alpinism — were not in vain.

Tactical plan

For the traverse of peaks Dalar — Dvoinyashka — Zamok, applied for the USSR championship for the best ascent by the "Lokomotiv" team of the North Caucasus Railway.

![img-7.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1408, "height": 1843, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/X4JENtvcJgGNNIx1tvDCZdM32gnCbRdk/img-7.jpeg↗", "id": 64745179})

According to the application, the assault team looked as follows:

1. Yu.Yu. Artsishevsky — team captain.
2. I.F. Valov — deputy captain.
3. B.D. Aptekman.
4. V.G. Kuznetsov.
5. A.A. Matveev.
6. V.D. Repin.

All six team members knew each other well, had repeatedly climbed together, and the first four had made almost all their ascents together since 1960.

Unfortunately, V.D. Repin was unable to go to the mountains this year as he needed to prepare for postgraduate studies.

Deciding that it was more reliable to go on this traverse in a group of six and considering the presence of a full-fledged reserve, we included R.P. Volkov in the assault team, who had completed the candidate master of sports standard in the 1968 season. The fact that R.P. Volkov was included in the assault team from the three reserve members is explained by his excellent sports form and high moral and volitional qualities, which he demonstrated during a joint ascent in the 1968 season.

This composition of the assault team justified itself both quantitatively and qualitatively, although the "test" was carried out at a fairly high technical level and in very difficult meteorological conditions.

So, the assault team finally looked as follows:

1. ARTSISHEVSKY Yu.Yu. — team captain.
2. VALOV I.F. — deputy captain.
3. APTEKMAN B.D.
4. KUZNETSOV V.G.
5. MATVEEV A.A.
6. VOLKOV R.P.

During the traverse, there were several combinations of rope teams, depending on the tasks that faced the team on a particular day, as well as the physical and moral state of each participant during the traverse.

Basically, the group worked in three rope teams:

1. VALOV — ARTSISHEVSKY.
2. VOLKOV — APTEKMAN.
3. KUZNETSOV — MATVEEV.

Each rope team worked on approximately one-third of the first part and almost everyone had to go last — to "beat out" the fixings. On descents — "sporting" and "dulyfer" — of which there were quite a few, we considered it expedient not to change the last person. It was Volkov R.P., who perfectly coped with this rather difficult task, especially in such weather, as pulling ropes after descent.

Good comradely relations, clear work, and fairly quick progress of the group in difficult meteorological conditions confirmed the correctness of the selection of rope teams and the most appropriate use of each rope team in each specific case. Now all the preliminary work is done — and the team is ready to go out.

The trial is approaching, for which we have been preparing упорно and persistently all year. There will be six of us — face to face with all the difficulties and dangers of the route.

These are:

• coaches of the Children's Sports School of the city B.D. Aptekman and I.F. Valov;
• physicist, postgraduate student V.G. Kuznetsov;
• instrument engineers R.P. Volkov and Yu.Yu. Artsishevsky;
• chemist, candidate of chemical sciences A.A. Matveev.

People of different ages and professions, united by a love for the mountains and many years of joint alpinism.

July 24

Finally, we waited for this day. A year of intense preparation, rigorous training, a year of daily thoughts about the traverse, intensive training in high-level rock climbing, training ascents, trips for supplies and reconnaissance — everything that was done and accomplished to exit on the route on one of these days; not having passed which, we would not have peace — all this is behind us. All formalities have been complied with. It seems that nothing has been forgotten. Let's go. Today, we will spend the night, and tomorrow, we will climb the wall. We reach the overnight stay under the wall along a familiar path in 5 hours, examine it again through binoculars, discuss possible route options, and go to sleep.

July 25

We woke up early, quickly got dressed, had breakfast carefully prepared by the guys from the support team, and at 4:00, the first rope team VALOV — ARTSISHEVSKY left the bivouac towards the wall. The journey to the wall took 45 minutes. The other two rope teams left 20 minutes after the first.

The ascent of moderate difficulty began literally from the first meters. The path was visible 20–40 m ahead, and we moved upward, choosing a landmark — the lowering of the "triangle". The deviation from the imaginary straight line connecting the base of the "triangle" with the starting point of the route did not exceed 65–70 m.

The first 4 ropes did not cause particular difficulties, as only one place had a wall that required us to give a leg up to each other. Then followed a rather steep section — a crack about 10 m high, which required considerable effort to overcome. We pulled up backpacks.

Immediately after that, there was a very difficult section of polished rocks upwards to the right. At the end, there was a convenient ledge for pulling up backpacks. The first pair passed this place at 10:00.

The further path to the base of the "triangle" was an alternation of sections of moderate difficulty with rather difficult walls, on which it was necessary to pull up backpacks.

By 14:00, the first rope team reached the base of the "triangle". Here, for the first time, we allowed ourselves to rest and have a snack, as we saw that everything was going well and the group was ahead of schedule.

Along the ledge at the base of the "triangle", we passed a rope to the left and approached the polished rocks, over the entire surface of which water was flowing. The presence of water further complicated the already difficult passage of this section. At this place, the first person had to lead the second, and only then could they grab some kind of foothold.

Another dozen meters of very difficult climbing led to more fragmented rocks, where it was possible to organize belays and pull up backpacks.

From here:

• 1.5 ropes of difficult climbing led to a steep ledge of the "triangle" peak, where there was something resembling a suitable place for an overnight stay.

The entire path from the base of the wall to the "triangle" peak — 9 ropes — took 16 hours. We slept sitting in "zdarkas".

July 26

The not very luxurious bivouac allowed us to wake up early, so at 6:00, the group continued on. The first 1.5 ropes passed along a snowy, gravelly ledge with piton belays. Then, to overcome the next 5 m, it was necessary to remove the backpack, as there was a narrow ledge with an overhanging cornice and a cold shower from above.

By the way, the entire further path for 1.5–2 hours passed literally under water, which was pouring from the roof of the "bastion". After the ledge, inclined slabs (10 m) led under the wall of the "bastion", from where a diagonal ledge was visible, going upwards to the right. Many loose stones, steepness, and monolithic walls significantly complicated its passage.

Finally, another rope of difficult climbing — and the group reached a ledge before the summit tower. The passage of 5 ropes from the "triangle" peak to the ledge took 6 hours. Having rested and dried off a bit, we headed towards the summit tower and found the further path without much difficulty. For this, it was necessary to examine all possible options within 2–3 ropes.

As tempting as it was to spend the night comfortably on the wide ledge under the tower, we naturally decided to continue.

The first rope turned out to be very difficult. The second was no easier. For the first time on this route, we used ladders. At the end of the second rope, we saw a ledge that could be adapted for an overnight stay. We decided to stop. We pulled up backpacks and began to set up a bivouac, which took 2 hours. While some prepared the platform and cooked food, the VOLKOV — KUZNETSOV pair managed to hang the next 3 ropes.

July 27

We got up early. Using the ropes hung yesterday, we quickly climbed up to the inclined ledge going upwards to the left. The ledge looked quite imposing, but the presence of sufficient handholds somewhat compensated for its psychological impact. After the ledge — 15 m of climbing of moderate difficulty, after which we reached the ridge.

A small dip, and our path coincided with the route of category 3B difficulty, along which we ascended to the Dalar peak. At 9:30, the entire group was on the Dalar peak. The weather was excellent, and we allowed ourselves the luxury of resting on the peak for 1.5 hours.

We had to descend along the counterfortress of the route of category 4A difficulty. We found the path without difficulty and after:

• two ropes of climbing;
• two "dulyfers"

reached a relatively gentle wall with many ledges, along which we descended simultaneously to the pre-summit ledge and from it to the ridge of the route of category 5A difficulty, leading to the ridge between the Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks. The ridge was easy. After 1.5–2 hours, we approached an 80-meter wall, where we organized 2 "dulyfer" descents.

Further along the ridge, another wall 25–30 m high was encountered. The rest of the path passed along relatively easy, destroyed rocks. We spent the night on very comfortable, compared to the previous ones, platforms, 2 ropes away from the ridge.

The weather all these days was good, so overnight stays in "zdarkas" allowed us to rest and regain our strength.

July 28

In the morning, we descended to the ridge in an hour. It was very pleasant to meet the guys from the support team. After a short rest, the VALOV — ARTSISHEVSKY pair, taking a minimum of equipment and almost all the ropes, went to process the path to the "shoulder" of the "edge".

After the first three ropes — easy rocks and snow — we approached the wall, where we began to ascend to the "shoulder". The first 2 ropes were very difficult. Here, we left "perils" for the rest of the group. With careful piton belays, we climbed along wet, "polished" rocks onto a narrow ledge going to the left and expanded noticeably there.

Along the ledge:

• 2 ropes to the "shoulder".

On the same day, we passed another rope under the base of the "edge", examined it, outlined a plan of action for tomorrow, and returned to the "shoulder". Here, we set up a tent and, thanks to direct visibility, agreed with the remaining participants on the ridge that they would come to the bivouac site of the first pair with all the remaining equipment and supplies the next morning.

July 29

Already at night, the weather began to deteriorate, and we were unable to start processing the "edge" at 6:00 as planned. Only at 7:00, when the weather seemed to improve, the VALOV — ARTSISHEVSKY pair went out to "work". The first ropes were very difficult.

A horizontal ledge:

• narrow;
• with an overhanging cornice above;
• followed by a smooth, steep wall.

Passing the wall required:

• the use of drill pitons;
• the use of ladders;
• took 3 hours.

After resting in the form of climbing of moderate difficulty (20 m) — 2 ropes were difficult, местами very difficult. The great steepness — 80–85°, the presence of a 5-meter cornice, and the complexity of the rocks required 5 hours to pass these two ropes.

In addition to the two ropes that connected the pair, the first person pulled a 90-meter rope behind him, which then remained as "perils". As we moved up, the 90-meter rope was pulled up and fixed on pitons approximately every 10–15 m.

The weather worsened, and at 15:00, a thunderstorm began. We had to urgently descend, fixing the rope. The descent took about 2 hours.

In the tent on the "shoulder", the rest of the team members were already gathered, and we, having discussed plans for the next day, fell asleep soundly under the howling wind and the sound of rare raindrops on the tent.

July 30

In the morning, the weather was the same as the previous day. We continue to process the "edge". If the weather improves, the whole team will go on the "edge". But the weather did not improve, and we decided to postpone the team's exit to the next day.

Meanwhile, the VOLKOV — APTEKMAN pair continued processing. They had an even tougher time than the previous pair, as the route became even more complex. Cornice followed cornice, and only at 16:00, i.e., after 10 hours of work, they reached the Western Dvoinyashka peak.

![img-8.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1604, "height": 1679, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/r41Yg9759vU7yKOHD3PhmfPcOFAXqnPv/img-8.jpeg↗", "id": 64745180})

OVERCOMING THE LEDGE WHEN ASCENDING TO THE "EDGE"

It was a great joy for all of us and somewhat relieved the tension of waiting for the outcome of the "battle" with the "edge". The weather began to deteriorate sharply, and our two comrades spent the night on the peak. Since this option was anticipated by us in advance, they took with them:

• a sleeping bag;
• down jackets;
• coffee in flasks;
• some food.

July 31

The morning did not bring joy. Fog, snow, thunderstorm — all the variants of bad weather befell us. Our forward pair descended to the "shoulder" in very difficult conditions, after which we perceived further capricious weather much more calmly.

The situation was as follows: on the "edge", from the overnight stays to the peak, ropes were hung, the weather was vile, we had a sufficient amount of food and gasoline, and a great desire to conquer the "edge".

The whole day it snowed. Wind.

August 1 Snow, fog, sleet, thunderstorm.

August 2 Snow, fog, snow.

August 3 Snow, snow, snow.

August 4 From 12:00, the sun came out. We quickly threw out the wet things and prepared for the exit.

August 5

Nature was merciful. The day was excellent. We quickly gathered and set out. The first pair, VALOV — ARTSISHEVSKY, went down to the ledge where the 90-meter rope ended and pulled up the backpacks with another rope of the same length, which the second pair, KUZNETSOV — MATVEEV, had previously pulled up to the first 40 m of the "edge".

Having pulled up the backpacks, the first pair went higher — to the pre-summit, and the second pair approached the backpacks, and the process of pulling up was repeated on the next 90 m. The belay was carried out with a rappel cord of the same length.

At this time, the third pair, VOLKOV — APTEKMAN, removed the pitons and took down the ropes.

By 20:00, the entire group was on the peak. ![img-9.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1230, "height": 2244, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/ZuCUKuDEMXki9JOK9JdEjq4xhsTgkas1/img-9.jpeg↗", "id": 64745181})

The KUZNETSOV — MATVEEV pair on the "Edge". 20 m below the peak, there is a convenient platform, which we used.

August 6

The previous day was the last day with good weather. In the morning, everything was already in the fog, and the weather did not promise anything good. We naturally decided to move forward.

We descended to the ridge between the Western and Eastern Dvoinyashka peaks quite easily. The heavy snow cover on the route made further progress difficult, but despite this, by 11:00, we were on the Eastern Dvoinyashka peak.

Further actions:

• We descended on a rope towards the ridge between the Dvoinyashka and Zamok peaks;
• Spent 1.5 hours waiting for the fog to clear at least a bit so that we could see the further path;
• Descended another 2.5 ropes.

A thunderstorm began, and we had no choice but to carve out a platform in the ice on the nearest ledge and set up a bivouac. It was about 16:00. By 18:00, the fog had cleared a bit, and we managed to see and outline the further path.

August 7

From the very morning, there was fog, then it started snowing, but we were already quite accustomed to moving in such conditions. 4 "dulyfers", and the whole group descended to the "Parus" pinnacle. Visibility was 10–20 m, but you could still choose a path, and we continued to move. By 15:00, we approached the "Klyuv" pinnacle.

A thunderstorm began, sleet started falling, but there were no platforms, and we knew that there was a platform on the pinnacle, so we decided to climb it. This took us another 2 hours.

We tried to set up the tent as quickly as possible, as the snow was falling heavily. The familiar sound of the "Febus" stove and the warmth of hot coffee gave us strength and maintained our hope that the bad weather would eventually subside.

August 8

In the morning, there was fog and snow. At around 7:00, we set out. At first, there was a simple bypass of the upper part of the pinnacle. Finally, the summit tower. The first wall, 10 m, was complex in such conditions. We pulled up backpacks. Then there was a traverse to the right (1 rope) and an ascent upwards (1 rope). At the end of the last rope, there was another wall, 3–4 m — backpacks were pulled up again. And then there was the last wall (6–8 m), the ascent of backpacks, and the whole group was on the Western Zamok peak.

The path to the ridge, then to the Eastern Zamok peak, took 1 hour.

Now it was time to descend. We tried to descend as quickly as possible — it was cold — and as carefully as possible — we were already a bit tired. Several "dulyfers", a traverse of the ridge to the left, a few more descents "sporting" — and we were on the Buravestnik pass.

We hurried to descend lower, as everyone was wet to the bone — the snow was still falling. Before dark, we managed to descend to the plateau under the Buravestnik pass. The last overnight stay. Almost the whole night, the "Febus" stove was burning, coffee was being made, which replaced warm, dry clothes for us.

![img-10.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1250, "height": 256, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/H9grA1lR2jsR3Zi7j7PFFkvr9JxRHOw1/img-10.jpeg↗", "id": 64745182}) ![img-11.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1654, "height": 2221, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/eUeQq7qcSDFE9pkf5K7wp5h6lbxNcmBV/img-11.jpeg↗", "id": 64745183})

August 9, 1968

Finally, we saw the dawn. Just one hour — and we were on the pass.