Report

On the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Centralny (3760 m) via the western wall edge, category 5A, made by the team of Krasnodar mountaineers August 2008

Contents

Letter to the Climbing Federation of Russia Comments on the route Ascent details General photo of the summit

Report

On the ascent to Dolomit Centralny peak via the route along the Western wall edge ("Мечта" or "Dream"), rock climbing, category 4B, by the "BARS" team from August 8, 2020 to August 8, 2020.

I. Climbing Report

3. Ascent to South Dolomite via the west face — Cat. 3B

М92. Dolomit Severny - Yuzhny traverse with ascent via the western wall (rock route, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severny is done via the left variant of the М89 route. From R1, move left under the black wet slabs. Then right-upwards along the wall composed of individual blocks and internal corners (good placement for protection with nuts). At the end of the wall, a large boulder serves as a landmark. On the green ledge, protection is via a flake. Then, via an internal corner, another green ledge, and one more internal corner, ascend to a large talus ledge R8. The further ascent follows the М89 route. From the Northern summit, descend along the severely degraded ridge to the col towards the Central summit. The ascent to it is done from the left of the ridge, along the boundary between snow and rock, and via a steep snowy ascent. The further traverse to the Southern summit follows the М91 route. The section R14-R13 is traversed from the left along a rock flake and the boundary between snow and rock (good placement for large-sized nuts). The rocks here are wet, with water dripping, and in the mornings, there is ice. The descent from the Southern summit follows the М84 route.

M91. Dolomit Yuzhny — Severny via the western wall ascent

(climbing route, 4A category of difficulty) The ascent to Dolomit Yuzhny via the western wall follows the M84 route. From the summit:

• Descend along the ridge towards Dolomit Maly.
• Bypass a small gendarme standing on a saddle in the ridge along the boundary between snow and rocks.
• From the saddle, move to a ledge on the left of the ridge and, bypassing the wall and a transverse ridge behind it, descend via a scree couloir (falling rocks!) and a short wall into a pass.
• From here, follow a straightforward ridge to reach Dolomit Maly.

From the col, descend three rock "steps" of a жандарм on the right, and the fourth one — on the left, to reach the snowy ridge, along which ascend to Dolomit Tsentral'nyy. From the Malyy peak — 3 hours. The further traverse follows route М86.

• Departure time from the bivouac — not later than 4 am;
• On the traverse section, it is practically possible to organize an overnight stay at any col;
• The route is completed within one daylight day.

М92. Dolomit Severnyy — Yuzhnyy via the western wall ascent

(route is rock, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severnyy is made

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Gvandra district, Kichkinekol gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: S. Dolomit, 3710 m, via the Western ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: approximately 3B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 700 m
   • Average steepness: 35°
   • Length of section with 3B cat. diff.: 250 m
6. Pitons driven:

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhny via the Southwest Edge approximately 4B category of complexity by the team of Voronezh Region August 6, 2021

I. Climbing Passport

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy (proposed) via the Western wall, approximately 4A category of complexity by the team from Voronezh region on August 11, 2021

I. Climbing Passport