Ascent Passport

Technical class
Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
Dalar via the center of the bastion (Ivaschenko route 1982)
Proposed category: 6A
Height difference: 939 m, of which 520 m is wall climbing; total route length is 1310 m, of which 550 m is wall climbing

Section lengths:

Pitons hammered-in: rock, nuts, cams, ice 20/5 78/12 85/10 8/0

Participant — V. V. Boyko — Master of Sports

Summit — August 14, 2005 Return to base camp — August 15, 2005

Dalar via the eastern ridge, category 5A (Kavunenko — 1964)
Dalar via the north-eastern wall of the eastern shoulder, category 5B (Porokhnya — 1978)
Dalar via the eastern wall of the bastion, category 5B (Kavunenko — 1964)
Dalar via the north-eastern wall of the bastion, category 6A (Karablin — 1975)
Dalar via the center of the bastion, category 6A (Ivaschenko — 1982)
Dalar via the northern wall of the bastion, category 6A (Warburton — 1976)
Dalar via the north-eastern edge, category 5B (Stepanov — 1962)

Technical photo of the route

Mechanical Part of the Route

Section	Rock	Nuts Cams	Section Length (m)	Steepness (degrees)	Category of Difficulty
R19
R18		7	100 m	50°	4
R17		12	60 m	80°	5
R16		8	75 m	75°	4
R15		6	40 m	70°	4
R14			250 m		2
R13		8	300 m	45–50°	3
R12		10	10, 30 m	70, 85°	4, 5–6
R11	5/3	18/3	5, 15, 20 m	100, 90, 85°	5–6, A3
R10		15/3	40 m	85–90°	5–6
R9		18/5	10, 20, 10 m	110, 90, 85°	6, A3
R8		15/2	50 m	80–95°	6, A2
R7		8/4	45 m	80–95°	6, A2
R6		16/3	50 m	75°	5–6, A1
R5		17/2	5, 10, 30 m	100, 85, 90°	6, A2
R4		12	40 m	70°	5
R3		15	50 m	70°	5
R2		10	40 m	65°	4–5
R1	3	5	40 m	60–65°	4
R0