Dombay-Ulgen

Peak4,046 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent to the summit Maly Dombai-Ulgen from the west, difficulty category 2B, route description, technical complexity, and required equipment.

Fig. 50

1. Ascent to Maly Dombay-Ulgen peak (3800 m) from the west — category 2B difficulty (Fig. 50 and 51, left and center)

From Dombayskaya polyana along the trail, to the right of Chuchkhur waterfalls, to Ptyshskaya nochovka. From Dombayskaya polyana 3–4 hours. From the nochovka to the left upwards along alpine meadows (partially a trail) to the left-bank moraine of Dombaysky glacier, from there to the left to the "ram's foreheads" and through them to the right-bank moraine (icefall possible!). Further upwards along the moraine along the glacier to a gentle green couloir. Through it to the southeast ridge of Maly Dombay and along the large talus to two

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Ascent to the summit Maly Dombai-Ulgen via the northern ridge, category 4A difficulty, route description and recommendations for climbers.

Fig. 52

3. Ascent to Maly Dombai-Ulgen peak via the northern ridge — category 4A (Fig. 52)

From Dombai clearing along the trail to the left of Chuchkhur waterfalls to Chuchkhur pass — bivouac. From Dombai clearing — 4–5 hours. From the pass along несложным разрушенным скалам (protection!) to the red rocks. First along the northern ridge, then exit to the rocks of the northeastern ridge and along narrow ledges on the eastern side of the ridge — exit to a wide crevice with a three-meter plug. Through this crevice via the plug — to the first ascent. Ascent to the first ascent:

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Ascent to the summit of South Dombay-Ulgen via the southern ridge with crossing Dombay and Ptysh passes, category of complexity 2B, with recommendations and route description.

Fig. 41

2. Ascent to the summit of Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen via the southern ridge with crossing Dombay and Ptysh passes — cat. 2B (see Fig. 40–42)

From Ptysh bivouac, up the moraine of Ptysh glacier (15–20 minutes) and left — towards Dombay pass. Ascend via the couloir (or its right side) and reach the eastern edge of Kruzhevoy glacier. Then:

  • Ascend the snowy slope
  • Ascend the wide couloir
  • Traverse on the right side of the rocky ridge
  • Reach Dombay pass — bivouac
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Description of the ascent route to the top of **Dombai** from **Dombai** pass, category IIIB.

— Mapunpin loцohodeэus on 6. Aoribay (N) — 3B cat. diff. ASCENT ROUTE TO DOMBAI (S) SUMMIT via DOMBAI Pass 3B cat. diff. Ascent route to Dombai (S) — 3A cat. diff. ASCENT ROUTE TO DOMBAI (S) SUMMIT via DOMBAI Pass 3A cat. diff. Dombai (S) summit, 3585 m Dombai Pass 140 m, 10°, 1 30 m, 40°, 2 40 m, 50°, 3

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Report on traversing the Dombai-Ulgen massif via a Category 5B route, completed by a team from the Crimean Republican Alpine Club in August 2023.

Report

On the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif (v. Vostochnaya — 3968 m, v. Glavnaya — 4047 m, v. Zapadnaya — 4038 m) (V. Davydov) 5B category of complexity By the team of the Crimean Republican Club of Alpinists, Climbers, and Ice Climbers "Mountain School 'Category of Difficulty'"

For the period

From August 5, 2023, to August 7, 2023. Semenov M. A. — MS, leader; Vvedenskaya V. V. — 2nd sports category; Alpinclub — Gornoye bezumiye 2023 year.

I. Climbing report

| | 1. General information | |

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Traversing the Domбай-Ulgen massif in July 1951: a description of the classic route, its history, and key features.

TRAVERSE ROUTE OF THE DOMBAY — ULGEN MASSIF July 1951

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