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Climbing Report of the KCR Team to the summit of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen 3968 m

Via the South Face, 5B category (variant). Presumably 5B category of difficulty. Variant. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — participant

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass.

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrostal, Oktyabrskaya St., 8, apt. 117.

Fig. 46

5. Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen via the north-eastern wall — category 5B difficulty (Fig. 46)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail via Chuchkhur Pass, descend into Bu-Ulgen gorge, and then to the green glade under the north-eastern wall of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac.

• From Dombayskaya Polyana, 7-8 hours. Alternative option. By car via Gonachkhir to Bu-Ulgen glade, and then follow the trail to the green glade under the north-eastern wall of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana, 3-4 hours. From the bivouac, initially follow the moraine, then:
• right — up the scree
• further up the slope of the avalanche cone (steepness 40-45°) — exit to the wall rocks
• traverse through the bergschrund

Dombay (W), center of the N wall — Zhiltsov A.G. Caucasus 2.2 Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus
3. Dombay (W), along the center of the N wall (Gubanova route), with a traverse to Dombay (Gl)
4. Complexity category – 6B
5. Height difference: 1500 m, length: 1990 m. Length of sections with 6A–6B complexity category – 475 m. Average steepness of the route – 65° Average steepness of sections with 6A–6B complexity category – 85°

ASCENT OF VOSTOCHNY DOMBAY-ULGEN (3950 m) VIA THE NORTH-EAST FACE (S. SENY ROUTE)

Climbing Report LVOV, 1971

Assault Team Composition

Surname, Name, Patronymic	Year of Birth	Nationality	Party Membership	Sport Rank	Climbing Experience	Instructor Rank	Primary Profession	Place of Residence
1. Shalaev Gennadiy Ivanovich	1931	Russian	CPSU member	MS	Since 1952	Instructor	Engineer	Lvov-14, Doroga Krivchitskaya, 1, apt. 17
2. Bolizhevsky Valeriy Konstantinovich	1940	Russian	Non-party	MS	Since 1956	Instructor	Engineer	Drogobych, Lvov region, Stryiskaya, 5, apt. 39

Central Council of the Student Voluntary Sports Society "Burevestnik"

Report

on the ascent to the summit of East Dombay-Ulgen via the center of the north wall Team of the "Alibek" alpine camp Team captain — Gubanov Yu.D. Team coach — Beletsky E.A. 71

Information about team members

№	Last name, first name, patronymic	Year of birth	Profession	Alpine qualification	Alpine experience	Home address

Ascent Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Western Caucasus. 3. Mt. Dombay Eastern (3950) via the center of the North Face (Gubanov's route). 4. 6B category of complexity. 5. Height difference 1460 m, route length 1710 m, length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity 892 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, average steepness and height differences of sections: Lower wall 60° (2490-2950), central wall 78° (2950-3390), edge 50° (3390-3670), summit tower 70° (3670-3950). 6. Pitons hammered: rock screw-in, ice screws

130	0	158	0
I	0	0	0

PASSPORT

1. Class — rock
2. Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.
3. Peak Dombay Eastern, 3950 m, via the Centre of the North wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6.
5. Height difference: 1350 m, length 1905 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 850 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 63° (2600–3923 m), of which 5–6 cat. diff. (2600–3400 m) — 68°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: | | 169 | 4 | 109 | 1 |

Fig. 43

1. Ascent to the summit Main Domбай-Ulgen (4040 m) from Domбай Saddle (via the northern edge) — 3Б category of difficulty (Fig. 43 and 44, left)

From Domбай clearing along the trail, to the right of Chuchkhur waterfalls, to Ptysh overnight stay. From Domбай to Ptysh overnight stay 3–4 hours. From Ptysh overnight stay along the trail to the left — up to the left-bank moraine of Domбай glacier. Along the moraine to the rocks to the left onto the snow and through the "barany lby" to the right-bank moraine (glacier collapse is possible!). Then exit to the left side of the glacier. Further ascent along the left side of the glacier, after 300 m transition to the right onto the rocky ridge, along the scree and destroyed rocks into a narrow crumbly couloir and along it to the Domбай Saddle. From Ptysh overnight stay 4 hours. From the saddle upwards (in bundles!) along the scree and несложным rocks to the steep 20-meter ascent, which is bypassed to the right along steep inclined plates (hook insurance!). Further along the right side of the ridge to the yellow ascent, which is passed first from the left, and then from the right. Further path along the ridge. Further:

• Subsequent two ascents are bypassed along the shelf to the right

№ 582 p.34 January 26, 1988 72

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

69. to Mt. Dombay/Gl./ via North face 5A cat. diff. V. Budanov, 38 Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to Mt. Dombay-Ulgen Main via North face 5A cat. diff. From Dombay plain through Chuchkhur pass, then traverse right — exit under East ridge of Mt. Maly Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac. From Dombay plain — 5–6 hours. From bivouac, first along the eastern ridge 190–120 m, then along the northeastern slope of Maly Dombay-Ulgen and through a bergschrund, exit under the northeastern wall of Mt. Glavny Dombay-Ulgen. Further ascent up difficult rocks 60 m (rocks are smooth, with few cracks), then exit right onto a steep snowpatch (Rockfall hazard!!!). The snowpatch is traversed right-up, and then up rocks of medium difficulty in the direction of a spalling. Near the spalling — a flat area, possible bivouac.