Sheet 1, p. 1.

Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.
2. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, 7.9.15 Via the Eastern counterfort of the Northern wall, O. Khudyakov's route, 1970.
3. 6A category of difficulty.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Elevation gain — 2795 m. Distance — 4530 m. Section lengths:

• V category of difficulty — 370 m.
• VI category of difficulty — 100 m. Average slope:
• Entire route — 44°
• Wall section — 52°

6. Pitons used: ice — 41, rock — 65, placements — 280. Previously driven pitons used — 24.
7. Climbing hours — 75, days — 10.
8. Team leader: Popovich Vadim Vitalievich, Master of Sports. Team members:

• Stolbov Alexander Gennadievich, 1st sports category
• Shabunin Alexander Anatolievich, 1st sports category

9. Coach — Mikhailov Alexander Alexandrovich, Master of Sports, Honored Coach of Russia.
10. Route reconnaissance — August 20, 2003, from 10:00 to 17:00. Start of ascent — August 22, 10:00. Summit reached — August 30, 14:50. Return to base camp — August 30, 2003, 23:00.
11. Organization: Ministry of Physical Culture and Sports of Sverdlovsk Oblast, 62051, Yekaterinburg, Malysheva str., 60.

p. 2.

General photo of the summit

• — — K. Kuzmin's route, 1964
• — — O. Khudyakov's route, 1970
• — — N. Zhilin's route, 1998

p. 3. Photo of the wall profile.

Khudyakov's route profile

Ascent area

Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m is located in the Central Tian-Shan, in the area known as Tengri-Tag. This part of the mountain system has significant uplift and glaciation. Here are the highest points of Tian-Shan: Pobeda peak 7439 m, Khan-Tengri 6995 m. The South and North Inylchek glaciers stretch for over 50 km each. The weather in Tengri-Tag is characterized by prolonged bad weather periods. Winds are mostly from west to east. The most favorable period for ascents is between July 20 and August 20.

The area is difficult to access. Base camps on the North Inylchek glacier are located at 4 thousand meters. It is possible to reach the northern slopes of Khan-Tengri:

• from the Bayankol valley through the "11" pass
• or by helicopter (tour companies MAL "Khan-Tengri", "Asia-Tour").

The first ascent from the north to Khan-Tengri was made by K. Kuzmin's group in 1964. The most popular route is B. Solomatov's 1974 route along the North-Eastern ridge of Chapayev peak's shoulder.

The Northern wall of Khan-Tengri has an elevation gain of 2600–2800 m. It is avalanche-prone, especially in the lower part. The foot of the wall is composed of schist, and from 6100 m, there are pronounced marble outcrops. Climbing routes are combined in terms of terrain:

• a mix of rocks
• ice sections
• snow ledges.

The first route on the Northern wall of Khan-Tengri was the path taken by O. Khudyakov's group along the Eastern counterfort. In 1970, this team took over 20 days to reach the summit.

Sverdlovsk climbers have significant experience climbing the Northern wall of Khan-Tengri:

• In 1994 — N. Zhilin's group ascended the summit via the Northern wall and Western ridge.
• In 1998 — N. Zhilin's group made a first ascent of the Northern wall via the right Eastern counterfort.
• In 2000 — V. Popovich's group ascended via the center of the Northern wall.
• In the 2003 season, team members: V. Popovich, A. Stolbov, A. Shabunin made acclimatization and training ascents on Khan-Tengri (Solomatov's and Kuzmin's routes). Weather conditions and the state of the wall in the 2003 season influenced the choice of route and ascent tactics. Consultations were held with N. Zhilin, Yu. Moiseev.

Ascent schedule

p. 8. Route diagram in UIAA. p. 9. Technical photo of the route.