Iskander

Description of the first ascent of a combined 5B category route up the eastern wall of Iskander peak in Pamir-Alay.

Climbing Passport Category: Technical Region: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Asu gorge. Summit: Iskander via the eastern wall Route: Combined, first ascent, approximately 5B category difficulty Elevation gain: 1049 m Average slope of the route: 66° Average slope of the wall section: 75° Route length: 1813 m Pitons used: rock — 66, chocks — 133, bolts — 1

Route passport for a category 6A climb to the summit of Iskander S. (5000 m) via the right part of the East Face, followed by a traverse of Iskander Gl. and Petrogradets peaks.

Ascent Passport 38a Ascent class — traverse class Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge Iskander S. (5000 m) via the right part of the Eastern wall, first ascent — Iskander Gl. (5120 m) — Petrovgradets (5163 m) Complexity category — approximately 6A category, first ascent Height difference of Iskander S. Eastern wall — 950 m including the wall section — 460 m Length of Iskander S. Eastern wall: total — 4030 m

Description of the route of 5B category of complexity to Peak Iskander North via the left part of the Eastern wall, climbed in 1986 by a group of climbers.

PASSPORT Technical class. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su gorge. Peak Iskander North, 5000 m, via the left edge of the Eastern wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route characteristics: wall section height difference — 900 m, total route height difference — 1120 m, total route length — 1560 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 450 m,

Peak Iskander (5000 m) via the northwest edge, combined route, cat. 5B, second ascent.

Ascent Passport I. Technical Class Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. Peak S.Iskander (5000 m) via the northwest edge. Second ascent, combined 5B category of difficulty. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1330 m. Height difference of the wall section — 750 m. Length of the wall section — 830 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 65°. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 255 m, 6th category of difficulty — 320 m. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |

Technical ascent description of 5B category complexity to the peak Iskander (5140 m) via the North-West ridge in Pamir.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class: Technical Ascent area: Pamir, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge Peak, its height, ascent route: Iskander, 5140 m, via the Northwest ridge Proposed complexity category: 5B category, rock Route characteristics: height difference 4300–5140 m, 840 m; length of sections of 5–6 cat. sl. 420 m (V — 305 m, VI — 115 m); average steepness 62° Pitons driven: for belaying: Chocks — 68 Rock — 171

First ascent description of Peak 5000 (Severny Iskander) via the northwestern edge in Pamir-Alay, category 6B difficulty level, with route details and team tactics.

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Technical category. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-su gorge. Peak 5000 (Severny Iskander) via the northwestern edge. Proposed category: 6B, rock, first ascent. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1330 m Height difference of the wall section — 750 m, length of the wall section — 830 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65°, length of sections of 5th category — 255 m, length of sections of 6th category — 320 m. Pitons hammered: rock: 90/16 chocks: 80/4

Report on the first ascent of the North Iskander (5000 m) via the North-East wall in Pamir-Alay, category 6 difficulty level

I. Technical Class Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su gorge. Peak Sev. Iskander 5000 m via NE wall. Assumed – 6B, first ascent. Height difference 700 m, length 850 m. Length of sections: VI cat. diff. — 400 m. V cat. diff. — 215 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 77° (sections R0–R16, 4300–4870 m). Pitons driven: rock 93/33 Bolt pitons: 17/17. Nuts: 88/73. Ice screws: 0/0.

Climbing route description to the summit with a map of the area and a detailed diagram of the route passage categorized by UIAA difficulty levels.

Climbing area map Route diagram in UIAA notation, sect. R0–R15: R0: 70°, 20 m, 4 R1: 75°, 40 m, 4 R2: 70°, 60 m, 4 R3: 75°, 40 m, 5 R4: 85°, 10 m, 5, 6 R5: 70°, 100 m, 4

Ascent to the summit of Maly Iskander (4520 m) via the North-Eastern wall in the Pamir-Alay, complexity category 5B, height difference 800 m.

ASCENT REPORT (second passage of the route) Climbing category: technical. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley. Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-East face Estimated difficulty category: 5B, rock Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 435 m length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 30 m

The third ascent of the route of 5B category of difficulty to the summit of Maly Iskander (4640) via the North-eastern wall in the Pamir-Alay.

Protocol No.559 p.4, 28.01.1986. 5B cat., 3rd ascent. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION (third ascent of the route) I. Ascent category: technical Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su gorge Maly Iskander peak (4640) via North-eastern wall Estimated difficulty category: 5B, rock Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 435 m