ASCENT PASSPORT

1. ASCENT CLASS — snow and ice.
2. ASCENT AREA — Tian-Shan, the peak is located in the main ridge of Zailiyskiy Alatau between the peaks OPTЭ and Chokan Valikhanov. To the south of the peak is the Bogatyr glacier, to the north is the Shoskalsky glacier.
3. PEAK ELEVATION — 4400 m. The route runs from the north along the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass, from the pass along the eastern ridge to the peak.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2A.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — elevation difference: from the base of the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass 450 m, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 200 m. Difficulty of individual sections — from 1B to 3A cat. diff. Average steepness of the route 25°.
6. PITONS USED — 4 ice screws for belay purposes.
7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS — from the camps under the Chekist peak (“Football field”) to the OPTЭ pass 4 hours, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 1 hour, descent from the peak to the camps 2 hours.
8. NO OVERNIGHT STAYS are planned on the route.
9. PARTICIPANT INFORMATION — team leader Lobushkin Vladimir Nikolaevich, 1st sports category, Popov Alexander Mikhailovich, 1st sports category, Kolonogorov Alexander Valerianovich, 2nd sports category, Petrov Mikhail Nikolaevich, 2nd sports category, Prekhin Viktor Grigorievich, 2nd sports category.

Ch. Valikhanov

The peak "Bezymyannaya" (4200 m) is located in a lateral ridge branching off the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau between the peaks Suleiman Stalsky and OPTЭ, to the northeast towards Lake Shokalsky. The northern slopes of the peak are icy with rocky outcrops, while the southern slopes are steep rocky walls and counterforts separated by couloirs (photo #1). The approach to the peak from the "Talgar" camp goes as far as the green glade below Lake Kroshka and further along the moraine of Lake Shokalsky; we approach the beginning of the ridge where a night's stay is organized. Approach time: 4–5 hours.

Description of the ascent route

The ascent path goes to the northeastern ridge. The exit to the ridge is made along the third couloir descending from the northern slope, in the direction of a characteristic rocky finger resembling the head of the idol Aku-Aku from Easter Island described by Thor Heyerdahl. The lower part of the couloir:

• snowy
• wide The upper part of the couloir:

Fig. 23

ОПТЭ (4480 m)

Ascent from the Shokalsky glacier via the North-Eastern ridge, route category 2A (fig. 23). The summit of ОПТЭ is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the north of it lies the Shokalsky glacier, to the south - one of the branches of the Bogatyr glacier - the Shuitsa glacier. From the Talgar alpine camp, follow the trail up the gorge to the Shokalsky glacier. To the left of the river, ascend the steep lateral moraine of the glacier, along its upper part to a gentle sandy area. This is a possible bivouac site. From the camp - 4 hours walking. It is possible to continue along the same moraine further to a characteristic hill with a cairn. After three hundred meters - descend to the glacier. After a kilometer and a half, cross the glacier to the right towards the scree of the eastern spur. Here is also a convenient place

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - combined 2. Ascent region - Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Middle Talgar gorge 3. Peaks RAPATAK, 4050 m., north-eastern counterfort 4. Presumed difficulty category - 3A. 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 750 m.
• length of sections with 5th difficulty category - none
• average steepness - 30

6. Pitons driven:

MAP — DIAGRAM OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Brief description of the approach to the route

The approach to the start of the first ascent route from the Talgar alp camp is along the trail along the Sr. Talgar River to the Shumikhinsky overnight stay, located at the foot of v. Karaulchita (2 h 30 min); then cross to the left (orographic) bank of the river and along the trail approach the "Tekegrad" overnight stay (1 h 15 min). From the "Tekegrad" bivouac, the path goes along the moraine of the South TEU glacier in the SW direction. 400–500 m before the glacier tongue, turn in the southern direction, cross the lateral moraine of the glacier towards the 70-meter tower, which ends the NE buttress of v. Karatash. The approach from "Tekegrad" to the start of the route takes 25–30 min.

Brief explanation for the route table

At the foot of the ice slope, it is necessary to rope up and move vertically upwards to the beginning of the characteristic internal corner, using stones frozen in the ice, sometimes with step cutting. Climbing the inner corner (section R1–R2) is quite difficult:

• rocks are fragile;
• in some places 2–3 m wall;

The summit of Kara-Tas is located in the lateral ridge of the Novy spur, Zailiyskiy Alatau range. This ridge starts from the Jambul peak and runs in a north-eastern direction. To the north of the summit lies the Yuzhny TBU glacier, and to the south - a branch of the Shaklskiy glacier. The route begins from the moraine of the Yuzhny TBU glacier, heading in the direction and reaching the ridge at the saddle between the second and third gendarmes via a wide scree couloir or rock outcrops. A gendarme resembling a finger visible from the glacier can serve as a landmark; it remains on the right during ascent. The first cairn is built on the saddle. From the saddle, move towards the finger (third gendarme), which is bypassed on the right. The fourth gendarme is bypassed on the right along snowy rocks, for a distance of three rope lengths. The rocks are heavily damaged. Alternate belay is necessary. The next gendarmes (5, 6, and 7) are bypassed on the right without reaching the saddles. The rock "saw" is bypassed to the left, without reaching the saddles, followed by an ascent to the ridge along an internal angle (alternate belay). The large 8th gendarme, resembling a bastion, is ascended immediately to the left along moderately difficult rocks. The second cairn is built on the ridge after the eighth gendarme. Then, proceed along the ridge of the Eastern shoulder. Initially, there are rocks, followed by a small snowy plateau. Belay is necessary when reaching the plateau. The plateau transitions into a snowy ridge with a series of gendarmes that are bypassed. Simultaneous movement is permissible here. The ridge leads to a wide rocky ascent, 70–80 m high. Ascent to the rise:

• via scree couloirs and rocks, exiting onto a lateral ridge;
• then along it to the rise. Belay is alternate.

Р­Я rock outcrops (150 m). At the very beginning, there is a complex cairn. This is the summit. Then you need to turn west and approach the rocks that give rise to the western ridge. Descend 100 m down the southern counterfort. Here, on a rocky site, there is a convenient overnight stay. From the foot of the ridge to the overnight stay, it takes 8 hours of walking. From the overnight stay, cross the southern slope of the western ridge, staying on the right side on the ridge, descend to the 1st gendarme. It is bypassed on the right by snow. Then there are the rocks of the western ridge. The rocks are strong.

• The second gendarme is taken along the knife ridge.
• The 3rd gendarme - Tower - is taken head-on along the line of rocks and snow (or ice). Crampons may

Traverse of Issyktent-Chokhu — White Peak — Akgul peaks, 4A cat. difficulty. The peaks of Issyktent-Chokhu, White Peak, and Akgul are located in a ridge branching off to the southeast from the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, known as Issyk-Ten-Chokhu, which separates the Bogatyri and Korzhenevsky glaciers. This ridge borders the Korzhenevsky glacier from the southeast. From the Talgar alpine camp, one reaches the cirque of this glacier via the Suroviy pass and sets up the first bivouac under the peak of GUVVO. The peak of Issyktent-Chokhu is situated between the peaks of Vsevobuch and White Peak. Crossing the glacier, one moves towards the peak (caution: crevasses are present!). The ascent to the ridge is closer to the peak of Vsevobuch and then to the saddle between Vsevobuch and Issyktent-Chokhu peaks. Crampons and alternating belay are required. Crevasses are present. The journey from the bivouac to the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. Turn right. Ascent to the ridge, crowned with gendarmes. This is the 1st landmark. Further, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty, heavily destroyed (!). It is more convenient to go on the left. Then comes a chain of gendarmes with small drops and a general descent to the "window". Belay is alternating everywhere. Beyond the "window":

• 1st gendarme (40 m), complex rocks
• if the snow condition allows, it is better to bypass the "window" on the left

Peak Jambula (4150 m) Ascent to peak Jambula with ascent from the northwest, route 2B cat. sl. (fig. 14). From the bivouac at the lake under the tongue of the North TEU glacier, move to the South TEU glacier, bypassing the ridge coming from the Syputchaya peak. Ascend to the col between the peaks TEU and Jambula via the South TEU glacier. Move along the glacier in teams along the median moraine. Bypass the crevasse zone from the left. The ascent to the col is via a snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°, then via scree and heavily destroyed rocks. From the col, go along the snowy ridge to the 1st gendarme, which is taken head-on. Descent to the 2nd gendarme is via heavily destroyed rocks and snow. The 2nd gendarme is bypassed from the left along a slope with a steepness of 60°. Careful belaying through an ice axe is necessary. The 3rd gendarme is also bypassed from the left along a snowy-icy slope, closer to the rocks. Here, piton belaying is necessary (2–3 pitons), sometimes step chiseling. The 4th gendarme is bypassed from the left along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 30°. Here, alternate belaying through an ice axe is necessary. The route continues along an icy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then via destroyed rocks and scree reaches the summit. From the bivouac to the summit is 5–6 hours of walking. The summit consists of two elevations. The cairn is on the northwestern one. Descent is along the northeastern ridge to the South TEU glacier along a slope with a steepness of up to 45° with protruding large stones. Careful belaying is necessary. "Sheep's foreheads" are bypassed from the right. Go carefully: it is necessary to take into account the avalanche danger. The descent to the South TEU glacier goes along a snowy slope and takes about 2 hours.