MAP — DIAGRAM OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Brief description of the approach to the route

The approach to the start of the first ascent route from the Talgar alp camp is along the trail along the Sr. Talgar River to the Shumikhinsky overnight stay, located at the foot of v. Karaulchita (2 h 30 min); then cross to the left (orographic) bank of the river and along the trail approach the "Tekegrad" overnight stay (1 h 15 min).

From the "Tekegrad" bivouac, the path goes along the moraine of the South TEU glacier in the SW direction. 400–500 m before the glacier tongue, turn in the southern direction, cross the lateral moraine of the glacier towards the 70-meter tower, which ends the NE buttress of v. Karatash. The approach from "Tekegrad" to the start of the route takes 25–30 min.

Brief explanation for the route table

At the foot of the ice slope, it is necessary to rope up and move vertically upwards to the beginning of the characteristic internal corner, using stones frozen in the ice, sometimes with step cutting.

Climbing the inner corner (section R1–R2) is quite difficult:

• rocks are fragile;
• in some places 2–3 m wall;
• few holds.

Pitons insurance is required!

When exiting onto the ridge along inclined slabs (section R4–R5), a control cairn is challenging.

The key point of the route is a steep rocky ridge consisting of monolithic, solid rocks with a small number of holds.

The gendarmes on the gentle ridge after the 80 m wall are mainly bypassed on the left along the way; the 4th gendarme - a boulder is bypassed on the right along a snowy shelf in a niche. After the gendarme, there is a four-meter sheer wall with good holds. The remaining gendarmes up to the base of the two-peaked tower are bypassed on the left (simultaneous movement). Behind the tower there is a bridge, which is led by a steep couloir (section R12–R13). It is better to pass it along the edge of the rocks, hammering pitons into the rocks. On the bridge there are 2 control cairns.

From the control cairn to the main ridge of the peak leads a snow-ice slope, quite steep, with rocky islands-walls of destroyed rocks. Insurance on these sections is possible with the help of "boxes" and channel pitons. It is necessary to pass this part of the route with particular caution.

Along the ridge, where the slope leads, the route 2B cat. sl. on v. Karatash passes, and the main technical difficulties of the category 2 route are yet to be overcome.

The descent from the summit to "Tekegrad" is carried out along a simple ridge in the western direction, and then along a talus slope onto the glacier (1 h).

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

The beginning of the route.

The inner corner (section R1–R2). Shot from above.

Exit from the inner corner to the ledge (Shot from above).

The wall of the section R3–R4 and the slabs of the section R4–R5.