Route Description

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent description to the summit of Uchitel 2A cat. sl. from the East. Further path follows the ridge connecting both summits. The first and second gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The remaining ones are overcome head-on. Then a неслож­ный спуск (easy descent) into the pass, movement along the ridge to the very summit of Pioner. The descent from the summit is to the left along the ridge to the Pioner­sky pass (3870 m), from it to the moraine of the Mametova glacier and along the trail to return to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the Alpin­grad site.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope — 2×40 m
• expendable repschnur — 5–6 m

Peak Uchitel'

Via South-Western

Counterforce, 4B,

V. Shapovalov, 1978

Pass by the Southern wall of Pioner and immediately after it, turn left into the couloir. You need to be careful in the couloir - rocks may fall depending on the season. It's better to put on helmets even below Pioner. Ascend to the clearly visible counterforce, reach its lower part via a snowpatch lying to the left. R0–R1: From the ledge, along the outer edge, 35-40 meters to the next ledge. R1–R2: From the ledge, upwards to the right across the slabs. A small wall, about two meters (90°), then it flattens out again. R3–R4: Either onto the wall to the right or into the couloir to the left. Either way, it "squeezes" out onto the ridge. R4–R5: The ridge abuts a wall about three meters high. The wall is not difficult, and there are ledges behind it.

I. Climbing category — rock. 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloalmatinskoye gorge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Uчитель (Teacher), 4030 m, Southwest counterfort. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock route, height difference 400 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 115 m, average steepness — 70°. 6. Number of pitons: rock — 32 (including 4 for creating intermediate belay anchors); ice — not used; bolt pitons — not used; clamps — 2 pieces. 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 (including 3 hours spent on route preparation). 8. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification.

1. Shapovalov Valery Nikolayevich — 1st sports category (leader)
2. Merkeev Sultan Nurtayevich — 2nd sports category (participant)

Bypass the Маметовой rock from the left (in the direction of travel) on a trail, then bypass the massif of Учитель and Пионер peaks from the right and ascend to the Героев Панфиловцев pass along the scree. From the pass, ascend via a couloir that goes left towards the base of a chimney. R0–R1

• Ascend the chimney (15 m, II).
• The chimney is blocked by a chockstone; bypass it on the right and traverse right for a few meters.
• Station on a ledge. R1–R2
• Climb a wall (20 m, II) leftwards up to a ledge with pitons.

Pik Pioner via the center of the South face, 4B, Smirnov, 1980

R0–R1 From a mossy and grassy ledge, ascend the wall via ledges to a small cornice, under which a hook is placed for the belay station. A white patch on the wall to the right of a black streak serves as an orientation point. R1–R2 Move left along the 80° wall with horizontal slots and local pitons to the base of an internal corner, up which you ascend (6A). To the right of the route, there is a small ledge with a hammered hook and a hole for a spit. You can set up a belay station there or climb further and establish it on a small ledge about 10 meters higher. R2–R3 A nerve-wracking rope pitch. The entire section is 25 meters, but:

• Not everywhere is there good protection,
• There is a loose block that you need to grasp to climb up. From the chip off to the left Up the little corner to a slab, above which local pitons and a drill hole are placed. R3–R4 The crux pitch. There's a scoop with a crack in its depth. The upper part involves exiting through an overhang. The pleasant aspect is that you can set up a reliable belay and calmly focus on climbing. The crux, in my estimation, is 6B. Then, a couple more belay stations above the exit, and a reclining internal corner begins, leading to a large ledge where "Urubko, Smirnov, Gryaznov, Babeshkin routes" converge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pioneer, 4050 m, via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) wall height difference — 275 m; b) section lengths: 2 — 30 m; 3 — 445 m; 4 — 115 m; 5 — 92 m; c) average wall steepness — 68°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating intermediate belays, rock pitons — 33, bolt pitons — 4, chocks — 6.
7. Total climbing hours — 7 h 20 min.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Pioneer

via the right edge of the South Face Category 4A difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioneer 4031 m, via the right edge of the South Face
3. Proposed: Category 4A difficulty

Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Pioneer

via the right part of the South Face 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20_year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioneer 4031 m, via the right edge of the South Face
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.

North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Pioner

via the central buttress of the South Face 4A cat. dif.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20_ year — North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioner 4031 m, via the central buttress of the South Face
3. Proposed: 4A cat. dif.

Climbing Route Description

TO MT. PIONER VIA THE NORTHERN FACE.

1. General Geographical Information

Mt. Pioner is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, in the northern spurs of the Tian Shan mountains. The height of the described peak is 4100 meters above sea level. The Malo-Almatinsky spur extends far to the north from the main ridge and is bordered by two gorges of the Malaya Almatinka and Leviy Talgar rivers. It ends with a small horseshoe-shaped formation of nine peaks, creating the Bogdanovich glacier cirque. The Bogdanovich glacier, 2 km long, gives rise to the Komosomolka stream, which flows into the Leviy Talgar river. The snow line of the ridge is at 3400-3500 meters above sea level. The eastern, southern, and western slopes are free from glaciation. Pink granite is the primary rock forming the Pioner - Uchitel peaks massif. The proximity of the desert and semi-desert zone significantly influences the harsh mountain climate, creating very favorable weather conditions for year-round climbing. The average annual temperature is +7...+10 °C. The minimum temperatures in January are -30...-35 °C. The prevailing wind direction is southwest.

2. Route Description to the Summit

There are two classified routes to the summit of Mt. Pioner:

1. Category 1B difficulty - via the western couloir from Pioner sky pass;