Fig. 12 45. Sugantau via the North Ridge (combined route by N. Misyura, Category 3B difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the base camp (a group of 4–8 people) on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier, to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau under the left side of the North Ridge of Sugantau is described in route 48. From the base camp — 3.5–4 hours. The approach path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the Sugan-2 pass is described in routes 46 and 44. From the Sugan-2 pass:

• descend a steep ice-and-snow slope, with a bergschrund in the lower part, to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Sugan Glacier
• approach the initial bivouac under the left (eastern) side of the North Ridge of Sugantau across the plateau. From the plateau (departure at 3–4 am), bypassing the rocky outcrop at the base of the North Ridge of Sugantau from the left (east), turn right and ascend a gentle 150–160-meter ice-and-snow slope (with protection) to a saddle on the North Ridge. A possible bivouac site is available here. On the saddle, turn left and ascend:
• a gentle, straightforward, occasionally moderately difficult slope

Fig. 12 44. Sugantau via the Northeast ridge (combined route by V. Maslov, category 3A, fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the rocky platforms at the base of the Eastern counterfort of the South ridge of Sugantau peak, under the right side of the Gulchi pass saddle is described in route 46. Without reaching the platforms, continue ascending the Doppakh glacier, following its left side, to the icefall in the upper part of the glacier, between the eastern slopes of Sugantau peak and the rocky island in the center of the glacier. Traverse the icefall between the crevices on its left side, following the slopes of Sugantau peak (belay). Beyond the icefall:

• across the closed plateau
• along the gentle snowy slopes of the glacier Reach the Sugan-2 pass saddle, located between Sugantau peak on the left and Uzlovaya Sugan peak on the right. From the glacier, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80-100 m up the steep ice-snow slope (possible rockfall - piton belay). Then, ascend the moderately difficult rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" ("live" rocks - piton belay) to reach the Sugan-2 pass. This is the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, 6-8 hours.

Fig. 12 43. Sugantau via East Counterforce (combined route by K. Vinogradov, category 3A, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the rocky platforms at the base of the East counterforce of Sugantau's South ridge, under the right side of Gyulchi pass, is described in route 46. Without reaching the platforms, continue ascending the Doppakh glacier, following its left side, until the icefall in the upper part of the glacier, between the eastern slopes of Sugantau peak and the rocky island in the center of the glacier. Pass through the icefall between the crevasses

Fig. 12 41. Sugantau via the South Slope (snow and ice route, category 2B difficulty level, Fig. 12). From the tourist base hut located on a wide grassy clearing in the Karasu valley, on the right bank of the Dykhsu River, at the entrance to the canyon of the same gorge (group size: 4-20 people), descend to the Karasu River along a trail and cross it via a bridge. Then, ascend along the Karasu River's bank in the direction of the Shtulu Pass. The trail crosses the river several times via small bridges. Near the lake on the right bank of the Karasu River:

• Turn left, away from the trail leading to the Shtulu Pass;
• Ascend up the steep slope on the left bank of the Aksu River until reaching the confluence with the stream flowing from the Yuzhny Sugan Glacier. After this:
• Cross the Aksu River;
• Ascend along the Yuzhny Sugan stream;

Fig. 12 42. Sugantau via the South Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-20 people) to the Gulchi pass with a bivouac on the pass or on the rocky platforms of the Eastern counterfort of the South Ridge of Sugantau peak, under the right side of the Gulchi pass, is described in route 46. At the pass, turn right and ascend along the edge of snow and rocks along the left side of the South Ridge of Sugantau peak, then up a steep 80-90-meter ice-and-snow slope (pitched protection). Beyond the ascent:

• along the sharp snowy South Ridge,
• then along a small rocky outcrop, exit left onto the upper snow plateau of the southwestern slope of the peak. The upper plateau can also be reached from the left of the South Ridge, via an ice-and-snow slope with a 60-80-meter ice-and-snow ascent (pitched protection). On the right side of the gentle snowy slope of the plateau (closed crevasses), staying close to the South Ridge, approach the summit ascent.

Russian Mountaineering Championship 1997. Technical Climbing Category. Sugan-Bashi Peak (4450 m). Route: Right part of the Eastern wall — KTSHGV point 2.6.52. Climbed by the team of North Ossetian Republican Search and Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia and the "Ossetia" mountaineering club. Leader: Egorin Sergei Vladimirovich, CMS. Coach: Korablin Boris Nikolaevich, MS USSR, Honored Coach of the RSFSR. Year of ascent: 1997. Address and phone number of the North Ossetian Republican Search and Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia:

• 362035, RSO-Alania, Vladikavkaz
• Kostа Street—273; phone: 74-11-03 Coach Korablin Boris Nikolaevich's phone:
• St. Petersburg
• 246-05-19 (home)

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: winter.
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Sugan Range.
3. Peak, route: Sugan-Bashi (4450 m), via the North-Eastern wall.
4. Complexity category: 6A.
5. Height difference:
   • including the actual wall part — 1060 m (excluding the ice fall)
   • sections with a steepness of 90° and above — 270 m
   • total route length — 1270 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 26
3. Peak, its height, and route — Suganbashi, 4450 m via the right part of the NE wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics elevation gain — 1060 average steepness — 75 ° length of sections: I — 80 m, II — 290 m, III — 480 m, IV — 300 m
6. Number of anchors used for belays to create FTO:

56 63

Report

On the third ascent of the route to V. Suganbashi via the left part of the Upper wall (by A. Zadorozhny)

Rostov-on-Don

1977

Protocol

of the analysis of the ascent to the Suganbashi peak via the route of 5B cat. diff., made by the group of participants of the "Digoria" tourist camp on August 19–23, 1977. Present: Head of the training department, Master of Sports of International Class — D.D. Arcishevsky

Ascent Record

No. 63

1. Ascent category - rock climbing
2. Ascent region - Kovkoz, 26
3. Peak, its elevation, and route Suganbashi 4450, northeastern wall, field part.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 950 m average steepness - 65°