Fig. 12
- Sugantau via the Northeast ridge (combined route by V. Maslov, category 3A, fig. 12).
The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the rocky platforms at the base of the Eastern counterfort of the South ridge of Sugantau peak, under the right side of the Gulchi pass saddle is described in route 46.
Without reaching the platforms, continue ascending the Doppakh glacier, following its left side, to the icefall in the upper part of the glacier, between the eastern slopes of Sugantau peak and the rocky island in the center of the glacier. Traverse the icefall between the crevices on its left side, following the slopes of Sugantau peak (belay).
Beyond the icefall:
- across the closed plateau
- along the gentle snowy slopes of the glacier
Reach the Sugan-2 pass saddle, located between Sugantau peak on the left and Uzlovaya Sugan peak on the right.
From the glacier, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80-100 m up the steep ice-snow slope (possible rockfall - piton belay). Then, ascend the moderately difficult rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" ("live" rocks - piton belay) to reach the Sugan-2 pass. This is the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, 6-8 hours.
From the bivouac on the pass, turn left and reach the Northeast ridge of Sugantau peak. From here, ascend straight up the 100-120-meter ice-snow slope (possible cornices - belay). Then, along the gradually steepening, heavily destroyed, and snow-covered, moderately difficult, 140-160-meter Northeast ridge ("live" rocks - piton belay) and up the steep 70-80-meter ice-snow ascent of the ridge, reach the Northeast shoulder of the peak. From Sugan-2 pass, 3-3.5 hours.
From the shoulder, descend 65-80 m along the simple snow-covered rocky, then snowy Northeast ridge to the saddle below the summit ascent. From the saddle, ascend 80-100 m up the gently sloping, местами sharp ice-snow Northeast ridge (cornices - piton belay). Further, ascend the 30-40-meter snowy dome to the summit of Sugantau.
Descend via the South ridge (see route 42). Naumov A. F. Karau gom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.