Fig. 12

43. Sugantau via East Counterforce (combined route by K. Vinogradov, category 3A, Fig. 12).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the rocky platforms at the base of the East counterforce of Sugantau's South ridge, under the right side of Gyulchi pass, is described in route 46.

Without reaching the platforms, continue ascending the Doppakh glacier, following its left side, until the icefall in the upper part of the glacier, between the eastern slopes of Sugantau peak and the rocky island in the center of the glacier. Pass through the icefall between the crevasses on its left side, following the slopes of Sugantau peak (insurance).

Beyond the icefall, ascend the snow slopes on the left side of the closed glacier to reach the upper plateau. On the plateau, opposite the East counterforce of Sugantau, is the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, it takes 5-6 hours.

From the bivouac, approach the plateau under the short, steep rocky East counterforce, which ascends to the left side of the horizontal section of Sugantau's summit ridge, where a huge snow cornice overhanging the Doppakh glacier practically ends.

Overcoming the bergschrund, ascend the steep ice-snow slope to the rocks of the East counterforce. Further:

• ascend steep, местами заснежен­ным and разру­шенным, simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the East counterforce ("live" stones — piton insurance);
• ascend a steep 40-50-meter ice-snow slope (piton insurance);
• through a small snow cornice — ascent to the South ridge of the peak.

Here, turn right and follow the left side of the wide, gentle snow-covered 100-120-meter South ridge (huge cornices on the right) to approach the summit dome. After overcoming a small ice crevasse, ascend a short ice-snow slope for 50-60 meters to the summit of Sugantau. From the Doppakh glacier, it takes 4-6 hours.

Descend via the South ridge (see route 42).

Source:

• Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.