Ynom-Kichkidar, combined, 3A

Route Description

From the Ullu-Tau alpine camp, the path goes through the Djailyk alpine camp, then crosses the Kullum-Kom river via a bridge and follows a trail along the right bank up to the terminal moraine of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier. The ascent to the moraine takes 1.5 hours. Follow the trail on the moraine to ascend to the glacier and reach its right (orographically) side, along which you should proceed to the so-called srednekichkidar bivouac. It takes 2 hours from the camp to the bivouac. From the bivouac, move along the right side of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier to a counterfort descending from the Freshfield Pass. The pass resembles "Gates" - two rows of rocky outcrops. It takes 3 hours from the bivouac to the pass. Then, descend from the pass about 20 meters down the snowfield to the east, and then traverse left to a couloir descending from the southeast ridge of the Ynom-Kara-Tau peak. Climb out of the couloir onto the ridge on its left side. The path to the summit continues along rocky steps resembling adjacent slabs. These steps lead to a gully. Cross the gully to the right and ascend the rocks on its right side (in the direction of travel) to a saddle. The path goes along simple rocks (slabs) to the summit. The summit is a sharp ridge, about 2 meters high, with a crevice in its middle part. The ascent from the Freshfield Pass takes 2 hours. From the summit, the path follows the ridge to the end of the massif, where a descent is made down a wall (40 m rope) to a snowy saddle. Then, a large gendarme is bypassed on the left along a snowy-icy slope, and a straightforward ridge is reached. The following gendarmes ("hares") are also bypassed on the left, leading to the ridge of the "Kichkidar" peak. The summit is covered with smooth rocky slabs. Return to the "hares" gendarmes and descend to the bivouac along the Zapadny Ynom-Su glacier, keeping to the left side.

1984. CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF CHEGEM (4461 m) ALONG THE NE EDGE OF THE N-E RIB, APPROXIMATELY 5B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF INSTRUCTORS FROM THE "ULLUTAU" ALPINE CAMP. A. Kurochkin, V. Ivashkin, A. Lukonenko, V. Poliansky, A. Sayapin, V. Smirnov July 31 – August 4, 1984. Team Leader: Kurochkin A.G. Team Coach: Porokhnya Yu.I. 361602, KBAASSR, Verkhny Baksan settlement, "Ullutau" alpine camp 360017, Nalchik, Kirova st., 12, apt. 50 Porokhnya Yu.I. 364046, Grozny, Verkhoyanskaya st., 4A, apt. 99 Kurochkin A.G.

Moscow City Climbing Championship

In the High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Chegem (4351 m) via the route on the northeast wall of the northeast ridge (V. Forostyana) 6A category of complexity by the KAIS MEI team For the period from August 5, 2020, to August 7, 2020 Climbing and Mountaineering Club of Moscow Power Engineering Institute

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2020 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak 4351 m via the NE wall, NE ridge (Forostyan's route), 6A category of complexity by the team from Samara region and Moscow for the period from August 12 to 13, 2020.

1. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Team Leader	Varlamov N.O. — 1st sports category
1.2	Team Members	Erokhov I.Yu. — CMS, Yablokov E.A. — 1st sports category

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak via the Forostyan route, 6A category of complexity, by the team from the Demchenko Alpine Club, Moscow Region, August 4–6, 2020

1. Ascent Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Danila Sergeyevich Shcheglov, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Danila Sergeyevich Shcheglov, 1st sports rank, Sergey Yevgenyevich Osokin, 1st sports rank, Dmitry Yevgenyevich Pivikov, Master of Sports, Artyom Sergeyevich Kryuchkov, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Elena Valentinovna Kuznetsova, Candidate Master of Sports

Moscow City Championship in mountaineering in high-altitude technical class.

Report on the ascent of the team from the MPEI Rock Climbers and Mountaineers Club to v. Chegem (4351 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge, 6A category.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge, Adyrsky ridge. According to KMGV classification – 2.4.1. 2. Chegem peak, 4351 m, via the NE wall of the NE ridge (route by V. Forostyan). 3. Category of difficulty – 6A. 4. Route type — rock climbing. 5. Elevation gain on the route – 1200 m.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — winter.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus, Adyrskiy ridge.
3. Chegem (4461) NE wall, NE ridge, 6A cat. diff. Forostyan's route.
4. Height difference of the wall section — 550 m.
5. From the foot of the wall section to the summit — 1050 m.
6. Average steepness of the wall — 85°.
7. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 385 m.
8. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: 2.4.1. Caucasus, Chegem gorge
2. Peak name: Chegem (4461 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge (Forostyan's route)
3. Difficulty category: 6A
4. Route characteristics: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 1160 m Route length: 1700 m Section lengths:
   • cat. V difficulty – 200 m
   • cat. VI difficulty – 260 m

Ascent Report on Mt. Chegem 6A Category of Complexity via Forostyan's Route on the NE Wall and NE Ridge, accomplished by the team of "Vershina" mountain club, Volgograd region. Ascent Passport

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range, upper reaches of the western branch of Chegem gorge.
2. Mt. Chegem 4461 m. NE wall, NE ridge, Forostyan's route.
3. 6A category of complexity.
4. Combined route.
5. Height difference — 1290 m. Distance — 1936 m. Length of sections with V category — 308 m. Length of sections with VI category — 201 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge, table 2.4.1.№p. p154.
2. Name of the peak Chegem — route name N.E. wall N.E. ridge (Forostyan).
3. Route complexity: 6A.
4. Route type: Combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 1161 m
6. Route length: 1616 m
7. Length of sections: V difficulty category – 285 m; VI difficulty category – 226 m
8. Average steepness: main part of the route – 85°; entire route – 60°.
9. Number of anchors on the route: Friends – 81/10