Дугоба

### Description of the Ascent Route to Peak Uzbekistan via the Northeast Face Detailed analysis of the technical difficulties and assessment of the route's complexity category.

Ascent Passport Ascent class - technically challenging. Ascent area - Peak Uzbekistan 5150 m above sea level via the left bastion of the northeast wall. Difficulty category - approximately 5B. Route characteristics height difference 935 m average steepness 75° length of sections | I | II | III | IV | V | VI |

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Uzbekistan (5100 m) via the north wall, difficulty category 5B, climbed in 1980 by a team led by Pershin Valery Nikolaevich.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class: technical Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge Peak, its height, v. Uzbekistan, 5100 m, ascent route: northern wall (second passage) Difficulty category: 5B Route characteristics: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 65°, section lengths: 2 diff. cat. — 35 m, 3 diff. cat. — 180 m, 4 diff. cat. — 380 m, 5 diff. cat. — 540 m, 6 diff. cat. — 95 m Pitons driven: | Piton type | For belay | For creating ITO | | :------------------- | :-------- | :--------------- | | Rock | 9 | 1 |

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Ak-Tash in the Alay mountain range, category 4 difficulty, first climbed in 1962.

Ascent via the North Ridge The summit of Ak-tash is located in the northwestern spurs of the Alay Range, in the upper reaches of the following glaciers: to the southwest — Dugoba, to the northeast — Ak-Tash, to the northwest — Dugoba-Shigou. The Ak-tash summit massif consists of heavily fragmented granite and limestone rocks. Day One From the "Dugoba" alpine camp, we proceed along the Dugoba River valley to the confluence of the Ak-Tash and Ulitor rivers (2 hours). At the confluence, the trail forks; the further path lies along the left orographic bank of the Ak-Tash River, bypassing a pronounced rocky massif on the right. The trail leads to a green meadow; after crossing it, we descend to the Surmetash River, and then, traversing the talus and grassy slopes above the left bank of the Ak-Tash River, we reach a canyon-like steep descent to the river (3–3.5 hours from the confluence).

### First Ascent via the Western Edge of Aktash Peak (4937 m) in the Dugoba-Shigou Valley, Category 5B Complexity.

Central Council of the Zenit Sports Society Protocol No. 396 dated April 15, 1975 5A first ascent (daib) AKTASH — 4937 m VIA THE WESTERN EDGE (first ascent) Naumov A.F. Master of Sports

Ascent description of Peak Uzbekistan (5140 m) via the ice slab of the northern wall, category 5B, climbed by a team of climbers in 1978.

Ascent Passport Ascent category: technical Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge Ascent route: Peak Uzbekistan 5140 m (via the ice board of the northern wall) Route characteristics height difference: 1050 m, average steepness: 65°, most challenging sections: 90° Length of sections: III cat. diff. — 420 m, IV cat. diff. — 160 m V cat. diff. — 535 m, VI cat. diff. — 120 m Pitons used:

### Description of the ascent route to the summit of Uzbekistan (5140 m) via the center of the north face, category of difficulty 5B.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: technical Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge Peak, its height, and ascent route: Uzbekistan, 5140 m, via the center of the North face Proposed difficulty category: 5B category Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1000 m Average steepness 65° Section lengths: III category — 240 m

Report on the ascent to the peak of Uzbekistan via the NE wall in 1976, category of difficulty 5.1 A, climbed by a group of climbers led by V.S. Nespovity.

Dugoba alpine camp 5.1A 105. IIIa Report on the ascent of Pik Uzbekistan via the North-Eastern wall 1976 Protocol No. 81 from August 30, 1976, reviewing the ascent of Pik Uzbekistan, category 5B, via the NE wall, "credited". Present: the group in full:

Ascent record of the "Uzbekistan" peak (5100 m) via the North Face, cat. 5B, climbed by a group in August 2004.

Ascent Certificate Technical category. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Dugoba river basin. Peak "Uzbekistan", 5100 m, category 5B via North wall, V. Rassokha, 76. Route type: combined. Route elevation gain: 900 m (by altimeter); route length — 1270 m; length of category V sections — 60 m; category VI sections — 20 m; average steepness: