1. Gestola, NE buttress — Cat. 4B
The initial bivouac is on the edge of the rocky side of the Lower Tsanner ice fall (point 3). Approach to the western slopes at the base of the NE buttress across the upper plateau of the N. Tsanner Glacier (covered crevasses!). Exit to the ridge of the buttress via a gentle snowy slope of 120–150 m. Up along the ridge (overhanging cornices to the east!) to a depression in the ridge. Ascend a snowy-icy slope to the right of a rocky outcrop: 100 m up a steep (50–60°) ice pitch from the bergschrund, then 150–200 m along a snowy ridge to a snowy-icy "cushion" to the right of a gendarme on the NE buttress. In a depression below the gendarme, it is possible to set up an overnight stay. From the depression, ascend 80–100 m up a sharp snowy ridge, then traverse left for 20 m along the boundary between rocks and snow (ice), and then up easy rocks — an ascent of 80–100 m to a shoulder of the ridge. 30–40 m along a gentle snowy ridge to the summit. 8–12 hours from the bivouac. Descent to the "saddle" of Gestola and further — as per description 2.
Recommended ascent plan to Gestola peak via Lyalver:
- Day 1 — approach to the initial bivouac site;
- Day 2 — N. Tsanner Pass – Lyalver – Bezymyanaya (4310) – "saddle" of Gestola;
- Day 3 — ascent to the summit and descent via the ascent route to the initial bivouac site;
- Day 4 — return to camp.
via the NE buttress of Bezymyanaya:
- Day 1 — approach to the initial bivouac site;
- Day 2 — traverse of the NE buttress — ascent to Bezymyanaya and descent to the "saddle" of Gestola;
- Day 3 — ascent to Gestola peak and descent to the initial bivouac site;
- Day 4 — return to camp.