m-t Kustovskogo
pr 540 n 17
09.10.84.
IV-th CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CAUCASIAN TERRITORIAL ADMINISTRATION
MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS
1984
CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Report

On the ascent to Ushba South summit (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall, category 5B, 3rd ascent of Kustovskiy's route from 1963 by a team of instructors from "Adyl-Su" alpine camp Ascent leader — Smirnov V.N.

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus
3. Ushba South peak 4710 m via the right part of the 103 wall (Kustovsky's route 7)
4. Category of difficulty — 5B
5. Height difference — 1450 m, length — 2170 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the route — 56°. Average steepness of the main sections — 80°
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

Passport

2. 4. 1986

Ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974

1. ASCENT CLASS:
2. ASCENT REGION:
3. ASCENT ROUTE: TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS SOUTH USHBA VIA THE CENTER OF THE WEST FACE (4710 m)

4. Characteristics of the ascent:

• HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2100 m
• AVERAGE STEEPNESS 65°–70°

264. Ushba South via the center of the Northwest wall (combined route, Yu. Grigorenko - Prigoda, cat. 5B, fig. 32, 37, 38). From the initial bivouac in the cirque of the southeastern branch of the Ushbinsky glacier, under the western ridge of Ushba South (point 259), approach the right side of the lower rock belt. From the glacier, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, then 150–200 m of very difficult rocks (aid, exposed) on the right side of the lower belt, left of a large corner, to reach the Georgian shelf. From the initial bivouac, 8–10 hours. I. Marr's group exited onto the shelf from the right, where it descends almost to the ice-and-snow slope of the southeastern branch. Along the steep snowy slabs of the Georgian shelf, make a difficult traverse 300–350 m up and left, crossing numerous ice gullies (avalanches, stones). Ascend 120 m up and left on steep rocks of medium and above medium difficulty to a platform at the end of the Georgian shelf - the upper part of the Lower rock belt. Bivouac. From the initial bivouac, 8–14 hours. From the platform, along a steep 80–90-meter ridge of the Lower ice-and-snow slope, approach the left side of the base of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt of the Northwest wall. Along a steep, difficult, interrupted ledge-corner of the Central bastion, 120 m up and right, under overhanging rocks. Through a crack in the overhanging rocks, 8 m up (aid, leaning) under a large corner. On the right side of the corner, a very difficult ascent 60–80 m (aid, leaning) onto a shelf, then through a crack and wall into a niche. Further, 70 m up a very difficult (aid, leaning) vertical corner, bypassing overhanging rocks on the left, to a small platform. Sitting bivouac. From the Georgian shelf, 10–12 hours. From the shelf, along steep, smoothed, iced rocks, a difficult ascent 40 m (aid, leaning) to the top of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt. From the Central bastion:

I. Climbing category — technically challenging 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Climbing route — South Ushba 4710 m, via the pepinier-wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference (wall section of the route) — 1010 m, average steepness (wall section of the route) — 72°, length of complex sections — 820 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 263 ice — screw — 4 6. Number of travel hours — 109.5 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

From the Baksan valley, through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, which follows the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish River and begin ascending along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish River to the left lateral moraine. There are areas for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes around 10 hours. From the moraine, staying on the right side (as we move forward), under the slopes of v. Leyrag, we pass onto the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the season. In August, there is steep, razored ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, sticking to the rocks. A rock ascent is possible. The rocks are of medium

230. Chatyn from the III ascent of the East ridge (the route is combined, I. Solodueva, 5B cat. sl., fig. 32, 33). From the upper plateau of the Chalaat glacier (p. 216. go left to the ice-snow cushion under the northern walls of the III ascent of Chatyn East ridge. From the cushion, traverse 300–400 m up-left along the steep ice-snow slope and, crossing ice gutters (avalanches, stones), smoothed rocky outcrops, rock outcrops, reach the sites of the East ridge under the III ascent of Chatyn. Bivouac. From the plateau 3–5 hours. From the site, along the snow-covered shelf 20–30 m to the left and from it 60–70 m up — to the right along

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
3. Chatyn peak (4368 m) via the N counterfort of the NE ridge
4. Difficulty category 5B, second ascent
5. Route elevation gain 900 m, route length 1500 m. Counterfort elevation gain 600 m, length 700 m. Average slope of the counterfort 65°. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category 300 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | |:----:|:-----:|:------:|:---:| | 46 | 0 | 127 | 12 |

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Chatyn Glavny via the "diamond" on the N face, Myshlyaev's route.
4. Complexity category — 6.
5. Elevation gain: 830 m, length 1010 m, length of 5–6 sections — 540 m. Average steepness of the route is 65°. Major sections 83°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Ice | Chocks | | :--- | :---- | :--- | :----- | | 109 (48+) | 76+ | 16/3 | 50 |

PASSPORT

1. Technical Grade
2. Central Caucasus
3. v. Chatyn (Main) via the "diamond" on the north wall (Myshlyaev's route)
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 800 m, length — 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 450 m, of which 6 category of difficulty — 270 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :---: | :----: | :---: | :------: | | 37+10^ | 24^ | 67 | 23 |