From the Baksan valley, through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, which follows the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish River and begin ascending along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish River to the left lateral moraine.

There are areas for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes around 10 hours.

From the moraine, staying on the right side (as we move forward), under the slopes of v. Leyrag, we pass onto the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the season. In August, there is steep, razored ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, sticking to the rocks. A rock ascent is possible. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with piton protection.

To the northeast of the Kvish pass is v. Ledesh, and directly to the south is v. Leyrag.

From the Kvish pass, we descend onto the glacier, initially on snow, and then to the right on a steep scree. Under the eastern ridge of v. Lakra, we approach the Dolnikova pass. The ascent to the Dolnikova pass is on snow. There are areas for overnight stays on the pass. The journey from the overnight stays on the moraine to the overnight stays on the Dolnikova pass takes around 7 hours.

From the Dolnikova pass, we head in the direction of the eastern ridge of v. Tsalgmyl. To the left of the ridge, there is a wide snow couloir that descends from the summit. In August:

• the upper part of the couloir is scree,
• the lower part is ice.

We ascend this couloir for 100 m and then move to the right onto the rocks of the eastern ridge. Here, on a ledge, is the first control cairn. From the overnight stays to the first control cairn is around three hours.

From the first control cairn, we ascend along the ridge:

• initially easy rocks, protection via ledges,
• then a 40° wall, piton protection. The length of the wall is 45–55 m.

After the wall, there is an exit onto a ledge. Here is the second control cairn.

Along the ledge, we move under the second wall, which is 40°. The rocks are monolithic, with piton protection.

After the second wall, there is the third control point.

Further on:

• rocks of medium difficulty,
• protection via ledges.

Along these rocks, we exit onto the summit. The ascent takes around ten hours.

The descent from the summit begins directly to the south (towards the Fizkulturnik pass) along the ridge, category 3A difficulty.

30 m below the summit, there are areas for overnight stays.

From the overnight stays:

• down to the larger "red" gendarme,
• then to the right onto the western ridge, along which we descend into the Nakra valley.

The western ridge is heavily destroyed, protection via ledges.

The descent from the overnight stays to the Nakra valley takes 7 hours.

Further along the trail (on the left orographic bank of the Nakra River), we ascend towards the Donguz-Orun pass. Overnight stay.

The journey from the overnight stay under the summit to the overnight stay under the pass takes 13 hours.

Then:

• through the Donguz-Orun pass, we return to the Baksan valley,
• from the overnight stay under the pass to Terskol is 5 hours.

RECOMMENDATION FOR CLIMBERS:

• The ascent can be undertaken in any numerical composition.

• The group should have:

  • ten rock pitons,
  • one pair of crampons,
  • two ice axes.