PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
3. Chatyn peak (4368 m) via the N counterfort of the NE ridge
4. Difficulty category 5B, second ascent
5. Route elevation gain 900 m, route length 1500 m. Counterfort elevation gain 600 m, length 700 m. Average slope of the counterfort 65°. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category 300 m.
6. Pitons hammered in:

x - including points for belay organization

7. Team's travel hours - 16
8. Overnights: 1st on descent, on a snow site before Zap. Chatyn peak.
9. Team leader: Bogomaz V.V., Master of Sports of the USSR

Team members:

• Bogachev A.V., Master of Sports of the USSR
• Yarovikov D.M., Candidate for Master of Sports
• Karlov A.P., Candidate for Master of Sports
• Braverman V.Ya., Candidate for Master of Sports
• Egunov V.A., Candidate for Master of Sports

10. Coach: Sapozhnikov Yu.G., Master of Sports of the USSR

11. Departure to the route - July 31, 1984

    summit - July 31, 1984, return - August 1, 1984

1. Leonov's route
2. Garf's route 5B category
3. Solobuev's route 5B category

L = 1000 m, "Smena", July 30, 1984

Route profile on the right

L = 1000 m, "Smena", July 30, 1984

PHOTOPANORAMA OF THE ASCENT AREA

1. Leonov's route – 5B category
2. Garf's route 5B category
3. Soloduev's route 5B category 4, 5, 6, 7. Routes on Chatyn diamond 6B category

TEAM'S TACTICAL ACTIONS

The team's movement schedule is as follows:

• 4:00 - start of movement from the bergschrund.
• 11:00 - reaching the snow "nose".
• 15:00 - reaching the ridge.
• 20:00 - reaching the summit.

The overall delay from the tactical plan was 4 hours and is explained by the harsh weather conditions on the day of the ascent.

Preliminary processing of sections was not carried out. When passing the counterfort, the team moved along the ropes fixed at no less than 3 points. When moving along the ridge, they worked in autonomous rope teams, but based on safety conditions, they organized interaction between the teams in some places.

On the R0-R2 section, the first team to work was Bogachev A. - Bogomaz V. On the R2-R9 section - Yarovikov D. - Karlov A. On the R9-R13 section - Bogachev A. - Bogomaz V. On the R13-R17 section, the complex ropes were passed by the team Yarovikov D. - Karlov A. The last team to work was Braverman V. - Egunov V.

The first climber's belay was carried out using a "petal" (a standard shock absorber) and a rope that met UIAA requirements. Movement along the ropes was done with lower belay; the last climber on sections R1-R3, R5-R7, R8-R9 was taken with upper belay.

The ascent was carried out in conditions of severe bad weather, and it was necessary to organize belay more carefully. It was especially important to:

• Keep dry change of clothes
• Change the lead climber in time
• Maintain the team's working capacity

The team mainly used special equipment of their own manufacture: V-95 alloy carabiners, jumar with ear, eccentric, stoppers, different titanium pitons, homemade gas primus stove, autoclave, etc.

Communication with observers was constant and stable. The overnight stay was organized on a snowy ridge before Zap. Chatyn peak, in a sitting position tent, with everyone having a change of warm clothes.

There were no falls or injuries.

86.

5

Number of travel hours - 16

ROUTE DESCRIPTION BY SECTIONS

R0-R1. Deep loose snow, at the end of the section dense snow 10 m, slope 70°. R1-R2. Bergschrund 5 m, then soft ice with a small snow crust. R2-R3. Section with separate steep walls, divided by snow-covered ledges. R3-R4. In the middle part of the angle, a 10 m section with a slope of 95°. R4-R5. Along the angle - a gully. R5-R7. Heavily snow-covered inner angle. R7-R8. Snow "nose" with rock outcrops. R8-R9. Vertical wall, small relief, gully along the wall (in the upper part). R9-R12. Rock under snow, ice in places. R12-R13. Soft ice under a snow crust, at the end of the section 10 m of broken rocks. R13-R14. Sharp rocky ridge. R14-R15. Heavily broken steep rocks, "live" blocks. R15-R16. Heavily broken rocky ridge. R16-R17. Gentle narrow rocky ridge, in places large snow cornices to the north. R17. Summit.

EQUIPMENT TABLE