Central Council of DSO "Avangard"

To the blessed memory of Ukrainian climbers Artur Glukhontsev and Vitaly Timokhin we dedicate

Ascent to South Ushba via the Central part of the West wall

(report on the ascent) V. Monogarov Kiev—1965 The route via the Central part of the West wall of South Ushba, traversed by the combined team of CS DSO "Avangard" in July 1965.

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus
3. Ushba South summit 4710 m via the center of the SW wall through the "Stolb" on Golubev's route.
4. Category 5B, 2nd ascent of the "Golden" route of 1981.
5. Elevation gain: 1460 m, length 2005 m. Length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty: 1030 m. Average steepness of main sections is 72° (3490–4630 m). Of these, category 6 sections: 855 m - (3520–4110 m) 575 m at 80–81°; (4182–4400 m) 145 m at 68°; (4470–4630 m) 135 m at 80°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 134 | 0 | 144 | 10 |

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS. 3. Peak — SOUTH USHBA — 4710 m. First ascent route along the edge of the Western wall through the "pillar". 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1460 m (3250 — 4710). Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1270 m, including 6th category — 735 m. Average steepness: route — 68–70°, wall section ("pillar", grey wall, canopy) — 90°. Total 850 m. 6. Driven pitons and used stoppers

I. Technical class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Ushba South peak via East face (Khatskevich route) 4. Proposed - 6B cat. diff., second ascent 5. Height difference - 1260 m, including wall section - 1075 m. Route length - 1600 m, wall section - 1275 m. Average steepness of main wall section - 75° (3550–4250 m) of which 6B cat. diff. -

• 85° (3615–3625 m)
• 90° (3625–3635 m)
• 95° (3705–3725 m)

I. Climbing category — technically challenging. 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus. 3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Ushba, South Peak, 4710 m via the East Face. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1700 m, including the most difficult part — 850 m, average steepness of the wall section of the route — 75°, length of the difficult section — 1015 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 3II, ice — 5, bolt — 2. 6. Number of climbing hours (on ascent) — 110.40.

Report

on the first ascent of the South Ushba (4710 m) west wall by the "Digoriya" alpine camp team consisting of:

• 1. Slesov I.V. — team captain, Master of Sports of the USSR
• 2. Shevandrin N.I. — deputy captain, Candidate for Master of Sports
• 3. Dzhioev G.L. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• 4. Mikhalev V.E. — Candidate for Master of Sports Rostov-on-Don 1977

1. Climbing category Mechanical (92)
2. Climbing area Central Caucasus
3. Climbing route with indication Ushba South peak and their heights via the western wall 4710 m.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1690 m (without icefall), average steepness 67°, route length 1931 m (without icefall), length of difficult sections more than 300 m.
5. Pitons hammered in: rock 277, ice 51, bolt 24
6. Number of climbing hours 74.5 h
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: 8 of them: normal in a tent 2, sitting in a suspended tent 5, sleepless in hammocks 1

Moscow Alpine Championship 2016 High-altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the left part of the southwest wall (Myslyaev's Route) 6A category of complexity The teams from the Mountain Club "Alpindustria" together with the Alpine Federation of Samara Region on August 19–22, 2016 Moscow 2016

Ascent Passport

Ascent Log

1. Class — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba South, 4710 m via the right part of the SW wall
4. Difficulty category — 6B
5. Elevation gain — 1465 m (by altimeter); length — 2000 m; length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 140 m; length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 355 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (pillar) — 81°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice, bolt: | 12*+6 | 43 | 13 | 58* | | :-------------------------------------: | :-: | :-: | :-: | | 4 | 32 | 0 | 34 |

m-t Kustovskogo
pr 540 n 17
09.10.84.
IV-th CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CAUCASIAN TERRITORIAL ADMINISTRATION
MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS
1984
CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Report

On the ascent to Ushba South summit (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall, category 5B, 3rd ascent of Kustovskiy's route from 1963 by a team of instructors from "Adyl-Su" alpine camp Ascent leader — Smirnov V.N.