Activity Feed
Route Description: правому ребру кф. СЗ стены
Ascent to Mt. Omot via the right edge of the central counterfort of the NW wall, category 3A complexity, route description and equipment recommendations.
Via the right edge of the central buttress of the Northwest wall, 3A cat. diff.
From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Oмот river towards the Northwest wall of Oмот peak. After 1 hour, start ascending via a couloir, keeping direction towards the right edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress are bypassed on the right, approaching the key section of the route — a 15-meter wall and a 25-meter chimney with a small cornice after it. Pass the wall from left to right; the chimney — head-on with a deviation to the right in its upper part. 5–7 meters of climbing up the wall with cracks, at the junction with a steep snowy couloir, it is recommended to set up a station. After 20 meters of careful climbing on ice-covered and moss-grown rocks, we reach the ridge of the buttress. Further:
- 40 meters of uncomplicated but steep ascent lead to a 5-meter wall,
- the wall is passed head-on with simultaneous bypassing of a gendarme on the ridge to the right. Passing the next two inclined slabs and the chimney between them requires attentiveness, as a fall can result in a significant drop. It is recommended to:
- ascend the chimney by 2–3 meters,
- then move to the right slab,
- moving right and upwards, reach uncomplicated rocks. After 100 meters of easy ridge movement, approach an inclined, ice-covered slab with an internal angle adjoining it on the right. It is necessary to overcome the slab, ascending as close to the angle as possible, using its overhanging parts for support and fractures for anchor points.
Route Description: СВ гребню через С седло
Description of the ascent of Everest via the Northeast Ridge, category of difficulty 4.5-6, climbed by a team in May 1998.
- Class — high-altitude technical.
- Central Himalayas.
- Everest via the Northeast Ridge with ascent through the North Col (8848 m). 4,5–6B cat. dif.
- Elevation gain: 2210 m, route length — 5150 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 920 m, 6 cat. dif. — 60 m.
- Pitons driven: | rock | nuts | ice | snow | | :--------: | :-------: | :------: | :--------: | | 26+39* | 0 | 8 | 40+9* |
Route Description: СЗ склону
Report on the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team to the summit of Gran Paradiso via the NW slope, category 1B route, including a description of the route and its traversal.
Report
On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the NW slope, category 1B difficulty. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park Team leader: A. K. Popov Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova
Ascent Passport
- Graian Alps (Italy). Gran Paradiso area. № 10.3 (according to KGVМ 2011)
- Mt. Gran Paradiso 4061 m via NW slope (first ascent – M. Payot, J. Tairraz, 1860)
- Proposed category – 1B difficulty
Route Description: З гребню
Report on the ascent of the Chelyabinsk Region Alpine Federation team to the summit of McKinley via the West Rib in 2008.
Chelyabinsk Region Alpinism Federation High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category
Report
on the ascent to the summit of McKinley, 6196 m, via West Rib approximately 5B category of difficulty
Climbing Passport
- Competition class: Russian Championship, high-altitude technical class
- Region — Alaska, Alaska Range;
- Summit — McKinley 6196 m;
- Ascent route: via West Rib;
Route Description: ЮЗ стене, «Альбатрос»
### "Flight of the Albatros" Route Passport 6B category of difficulty on El Capitan, USA, with a detailed description of technical characteristics and passage.
Passport
- Class: rock climbing
- USA, California, Sierra Nevada. Yosemite area.
- Peak: El Capitan.
- Route: Flight of the Albatros. 6B category of difficulty.
- Elevation gain – 950 m. Route length – 1140 m. Average wall steepness 83 °.
- Pitons driven: Rock chocks: Bolts: Sky hooks: 64/7* 280/9* 70*
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
Description of the ascent via "Centre of the south-east wall" route, category 6A, to Jabal Misht summit in the Sultanate of Oman.
Ascent Passport
- Region: Sultanate of Oman, Western Hajar range. Peak name: Jabal Misht
- Route name: Up the center of the southeast wall
- Proposed 6A category of difficulty, third ascent, combination of German routes
- Route type: rock
- Route elevation gain: 900 m. Route length: 1000 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty – 250 m., VI category of difficulty – 450 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route – 83°, total route – 73°
- "Hooks" left on the route: total – 0, including bolted – 0.
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Description of the climbing route category 2A to Mount Karpinsky (1803 m) via the south-west ridge in the Subpolar Urals.
Mountaineering Route Passport
Mountain region — Balbanyu river valley Mountain range — Issledovatelsky Ridge Peak — Mount Karpinsky (1803) Route — via the south-west ridge Complexity category — 2A cat. (sk) Alpinism Federation of the Komi Republic Syktyvkar city Ascent Passport
- Region — Subpolar Urals
Route Description: ЮВ склону
Description of a 1B category route to the summit of Pik Komsomola (1729 m) in the Subpolar Urals, going through talus slopes and rocks on the south-eastern slope.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Subpolar Urals
- Ridge — Research Ridge
- Gorge — Mountain horseshoe of Olenevodov Plateau
- Section number according to KMGV-2001 — 8. "Other mountain systems, massifs"
- Name of the peak — 1729 (p. Komsomola Main)
- Height: 1729
- Route name — via the south-eastern slope
- Category of difficulty — 1B category of difficulty
- Route character — Combined
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent route to peak Kruzenstern (1462 m) via the southern ridge, category 1B difficulty level, in the Subpolar Urals.
Ascent Passport
Region — Subpolar Urals. Ridge — Research Range. Gorge — Manaraga River valley. Spur — mountain horseshoe of the Oleniy stream valley. Section number according to KMGV-2001 — 8. "Other mountain systems, massifs". Summit name — Kruzenshtern Peak. Height — 1462 m. Route name — via the South Ridge. Difficulty category — Proposed cat. diff. 1B. Route type: combined. First ascent. Height difference — 860 m. Route length — 3000 m. Sections of 5 cat. diff. — none. Sections of 6 cat. diff. — none. Average steepness of the main (technical part) of the route — 50–55°. Average steepness of the entire route — 31°. No pitons left on the route. Pitons were not used. Team's travel hours:
- Approach from "Oleniy" refuge — 50 min.
- Ascent from "Priyut 'Oleniy'" bivouac — 6 hours. Leader: Shulepov G. G. (1st sports category, instructor 3 cat., Syktyvkar) + 6. Participants:
- Zhuravlev S. V. (CMS, instructor 2 cat.) + 10 (NP-1 department). Coach: Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilievich, CMS, instructor 2 cat. Departure to the route — 7:00, July 12, 2005. Summit reached — 13:00, July 12, 2005. Return to base camp — 18:00, July 12, 2005. Organization: Youth Interregional Scientific and Sports Expedition of Russian Germans and Alpine Federation of the Komi Republic "Polar Vertical — 2005". Exec. Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilievich, Syktyvkar, 167000, Internatsionalnaya st., 97, apt. 12. Phone 24–24–91. E-mail: Zhur58@rambler.ru. Senior coach — Zhuravlev S. V. (No. 1124).
Route Description: 4-му кф. З склона
First ascent to the summit 1345 (Oplesnina mountain) via the fourth counterfort of the western slope in the Subpolar Urals, 2A difficulty level.
Ascent Passport
Region – Subpolar Urals. Ridge – Narod-Ityinsky Ridge (kряж). Gorge – Bolshaya Lemva River Valley. Mountain range: Main watershed ridge of the Subpolar Urals (section: Lemvaiz peak – Khaimaiz peak). Section number according to KMGV-2001 – №8. "Other mountain systems, massifs". Name of the peak – 1345 (Oplesnina mountain). Height – 1345 m. Route name – via the fourth counterfort of the western slope. First ascent.