Report on the first ascent of the SW couloir of Mt. Bolshoy Tkhach (2161.0 m) via the "Otkryshka" route, approximately 2A category of difficulty, accomplished by M.V. Bogatyrev, A.Yu. Burlev, and Yu.A. Menyayev on February 6, 2008. Table of Contents

• Ascent Passport
• Maps of the Area
• Brief Characteristics of the Area
• Approach Description
• Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols
• Summary Table of the Route
• Route and Descent Description
• Route Photographs

Route name — Fisht peak. Number in classifier 62. Cat. grade. 2A*. Leader V. Taranenko. Year of passage 1984. Fisht (2867 m), 2A cat. grade. via SE ridge, rock route. V. Taranenko, 1984. After prolonged snowfalls — snowy (for classification purposes between October 15 and May 15). This route is one of the most aesthetically appealing routes in the area:

• many beautiful views;
• panorama of the Western Caucasus;
• effective angles for photo and video shooting. From the "Fisht" trailhead, follow the marked trail to the base of the wall. Then, up to the left along the Maly Fishtinsky Glacier (avalanches!) to the Fishtinsky Pass (2.5–3 hours). Routes to Fisht peak

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Western Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range, Belaya River valley
2. Peak, route: p. Fisht (2867), via NW ridge (via "Crocodile")
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, first ascent
4. Route length: 1400 m Average slope of the route: 30°
5. Number of walking hours/days: 3/0.1
6. Leader: Skripchenko A. V. Participants: Yakunina Yu. A., Foigel M. R.
7. Departure to the route: September 6, 2002

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshko Malaya via the northwestern counterfort in the period from April 29 to 30, 1976, by a group assembled by the Krasnodar City Committee for Physical Culture and Sports.

Route Description

From the base camp at Lake Kardyvach, head up the Upper Mzymta River to the start of the ascent up steep snowy slopes leading to the cirque between Tsyndyshko Yuzhnaya peak and Tsyndyshko Malaya peak. Staying in the central part of the cirque (avalanches!), move in the direction of Tsyndyshko Pass until the second snow couloir on the right, which leads to a clearly defined saddle on the counterfort of Tsyndyshko Malaya peak. The time taken to reach the couloir from the camp is 2.5–3 hours. Ascent up the couloir (2.5–3 ropes) with a steepness of 30 to 60° in the upper part, then up a steep snowy ridge to beneath a 4-meter rock wall (moderate climbing, 1 piton). Then, exit via sloping snowy slabs and a snowy ridge to beneath the first "gendarme". It is climbed directly "head-on" (moderate climbing). From the "gendarme", a sport rappel (1 rope) down to a snowy saddle with a separate rocky "finger". From the saddle, follow the ridge, then up a 3-meter rock wall (moderate climbing, 1 piton) and via an internal corner on its right-hand side, exit onto a snowy "knife-edge" (1 rope). A steep rocky ascent on the ridge (second "gendarme") is bypassed on the left via a steep, sloping snowy ledge (1 rope, 2 pitons). Then, ascend the rocky ridge to a platform beneath the sub-summit. The sub-summit is reached with alternate belays on the right-hand side of the ridge (cornice 1). From the sub-summit, descend to a broad depression in the ridge and, via simple, broken rocks (2 ropes), ascend to the summit. The time taken to complete the route from exiting beneath the couloir is 5–6 hours. The descent via the ascent route takes 2–3 hours, depending on the condition of the route.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category—
2. Climbing region— Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake.
3. Climbing route — Tsynдышхо Northern via the north-eastern ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1,252 m average slope of ascent — 40° length of difficult sections —
5. Pitons driven:
   • rock —

Ascent Passport

Ascent Category	— technical
Ascent Region	— Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake
Ascent Route	— Mt. Tsyndyshkho Southwest (3150 m) from Tsyndyshkho Pass, 2B category
Ascent Characteristics:
	The route is combined, total elevation gain — 400–450 m, average slope — 35–40°, total climbing time (from camp to camp) — 10–13 hours.
Team Name	— Group of climbers from Krasnodar City Committee on Physical Culture and Sports.
Team Members:	Zavalei Igor Leonidovich — leader, 2nd sports category; Nataev Vladimir Nikolaevich — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor; Yakovleva Lyudmila Trofimovna — 3rd sports category; Rogulenko Vyacheslav Ivanovich — 2nd sports category
Team Coach —	Kisel Sergey Yakovlevich — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior mountaineering instructor.

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp at Kardyvach Lake, ascend along the Mzymta River to the steep ascent to the plateau under Smidovikha Peak (1 hour). Up to the right onto the plateau and further to the 9th pass (1.5 hours). From here, descend and then, traversing the slopes of the Gl. Tsyndyshho massif, exit under the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West. The base of the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West is represented by three steep, converging buttresses. The route follows the leftmost one, as the most logical and safe.

Brief Explanation for the Table

The route begins up a steep snow-ice couloir between the left and central buttresses of the Eastern ridge (R0–R1). Then, up to the left across steep, snow-covered rock slabs — exit onto the left buttress of the Eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West (R1–R2). The route then logically follows the edge of the buttress (R2–R3, R3–R4). Climbing is quite difficult in places. The rocks are steep and highly smoothed in places. The R4–R5 section is a gentle, narrow rock ridge with two small but steep gendarmes, which are climbed head-on. At the start of this section, the first control cairn is built. At the end of the ridge, there is a short wall ending in a ledge where a tent can be set up (R5–R6). From here, straight up a sheer wall (R6–R7). There are very few holds, and climbing is difficult. At the end of the section, the second control cairn is built. The large black gendarme is climbed straight up (R7–R8), with free climbing. Sections R8–R9, R9–R10 are climbed with alternate belays through an ice axe. On section R9–R10, there are many large snow cornices. At the end of R9–R10, there is a wide snow corrie. From the snow corrie, straight up snow-covered rocks — exit onto the main ridge of V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R10–R11). Here, the route converges with route 2B cat. sl. on V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R11–R12). The ascent took 12 hours.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Ascent route: traverse of Tsyndyshko: Northern 3102 m, 2nd Northern 3107 m, Main 3210 m, South-Western 3150 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A
5. Pitons driven: rock: 32 (including chocks) ice: 4 bolt: –

1. Climbing category: Rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvam mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: 60-let VLKSM, 3400 m, via the left buttress of the eastern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 60–65°, route length:

   K.T.R.	1	2	3	4	5	6
   M	153	650	100	-	-	-

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: rock.
2. Ascent area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyval mountain to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: 60-let VLKSM, 3400 m via the center of the eastern wall.
4. Expected difficulty category: 3B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 800 m, average slope 65–70°, route length:

   D.F.C.	1	2	3	4	5	6