26. Machhapuchhare via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A difficulty, fig. 5, 7). From the upper meadows below Sharyvcek Pass (point 18), traverse right across the moraine, snow slopes, scree, and over the moraine to the Machhapuchhare glacier below the Northwest slopes of Machhapuchhare peak. From the glacier, ascend a steep snow/ice slope to the left side of the base of the West buttress of Machhapuchhare’s Southwest ridge (belay). Then 120–140 m up a steep snow/ice slope on the left side of the West buttress (pitons) to a saddle on the Southwest ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend easy, broken rock on the Southwest ridge, overcoming gendarmes and short walls with steep, straightforward simple rock climbing (“live” rocks, belay), and ascend scree and easy, broken rock to the summit of Machhapuchhare. 4–7 hours from the Upper meadows.

47

Ascent Record 3A (№)

1. Ascent category — Technical
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks p. Nuam-Kuam (4182 m) via S.W. edge
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1200 m, average steepness, complex section length 20 m; 25 m;
5. Pitons hammered: rock – 18
6. Number of travel hours – 17
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics – 1 lying overnight stay

ASCENT CERTIFICATE.

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range, Inguri gorge.
3. Nuam-Kuam, 4153, via S.W. spur.
4. Presumed category difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m sections of 5th difficulty grade — 100 m average steepness — 45 °
6. Pitons driven:

19. Passismta via the North Face (combined route, category III difficulty, fig. 5, 6). From Tskhsinitskali Glacier (№ 18), ascend the snowy-ice slope to the bergschrund below Passismta's North Face. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, then ascend a steep ice-snow slope for 80–100 m (avalanche risk, pitons) to the lower crevasse, which is traversed using snow bridges (piton usage). Continue 200–300 m up a steep ice-snow slope (avalanche risk, pitons) to the upper crevasse, which is more easily traversed on the left. Then ascend 150–200 m up and left on the ice-snow slope (belay) under the icy rock couloir on the left side of the summit tower. Ascend 60–80 m up the steep couloir of moderate difficulty (piton usage) to reach the Northeast Ridge. Turn right here and ascend via the snowy plateau and easy broken rocks to the summit of Passismta. 4–7 hours from the glacier.

Passport

1. Ice and snow ascent class.
2. Central Caucasus, Southern lateral spur of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Tetnuld, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1780 m, length 2190 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 1768 m. Average steepness of main sections is 55° (R1–R2, R4–R14), including 6 category of difficulty 85–110° for 130 m (R12–R14).
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 1
   • ice: 232

250 m up to the saddle of the Western ridge of the Tichtengen summit. From the Kitlod glacier - about 1 hour. The approach from the Chegem tourist base to the saddle of the Western ridge is carried out from the Kulak glacier. The path to the upper plateau of this glacier is described in route 233. From the upper plateau along a steep ice-snow slope with a bergschrund in the lower part - a simple ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge. On the saddle (when ascending from the Kitlod glacier) turn right and ascend along a simple snow-covered rocky Western ridge. Bypass the ridge's gendarme by traversing 40-45 m to the right along steep rocks of medium difficulty.

143. Tikhtengen South via the Eastern ridge (route is combined, T. Longstaff, cat.4B, fig. 20, 23). From the initial bivouac on Tsanner flats (item 141) move across the plateau towards the snowy couloir of the Eastern ridge of Tikhtengen saddle, to the right of the steep ascent to pyramidal IV and three small gendarmes. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 200-250 m up the snowy couloir to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend rocks of above average difficulty, then ascend snowy rocks of average difficulty of the Eastern ridge to reach the I gendarme. Further,

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: technical (wall). 2. Ascent area: Main Caucasus Range from the south, area of Semi pass – Tsanner pass. 3. Ascent route: Tikhtengen, South summit 4611 m via the South-East wall. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference to the summit 1000 m, wall height difference 900 m, average slope of the entire route 65°, average slope of the wall proper 70°, length of complex sections 560 m (including very complex ones 370 m) 5. Pitons driven: rock — 116, ice — 4, ladder usage — 11 times 6. Number of walking hours: processing 140 m — 3 hours. 1st day — 13 hours, 2nd day — 11 hours, 3rd day — 12 hours, descent — 14 hours 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

51. Fytnergyn via Western Ridge

(combined route, Yu. Porokhnya, category III, fig. 5, 8). Follow the Northwest cirque plateau (point 45) to reach the broad ice-and-snow slope of the Western Ridge saddle of Fytnergyn. 1.5–2 hours from Zeskho Pass. From the plateau, keeping to the rocks on the left side, cross the bergschrund and ascend 200–250 m up the ice-and-snow slope (avalanche risk, protection) to the right side of the Western Ridge saddle of Fytnergyn. About 1 hour from the plateau. Here, turn right and ascend 40 m up easy rocks of the Western Ridge to the base of the first pinnacle. Traverse it on the left and then ascend steep moderate rocks («loose» stones, pitons) to the Western Ridge. Then follow 200 m along easy, crumbling ridge rocks to the second pinnacle (crux). Ascend 40–45 m up moderate rocks of the Western Ridge (piton protection) to the second pinnacle. From it, descend 3–4 m to a connecting ridge, from which traverse 15–20 m to the left of the third pinnacle along a ledge. Then ascend 30 m up a sheer icy chimney or, left of it, up smooth moderate slabs («live» pitons) to the Western Ridge at the third pinnacle. Further, follow easy, crumbling, snowy (cornices), occasionally steep Western Ridge, overcoming the fourth pinnacle head-on, to reach easy snowy rocks below the summit rise. Ascend a simple, narrow, 30-meter ice-and-snow Western Ridge, then a steep, 50–60-meter ice-and-snow northern slope (protection) of the rise, and finally a steep, easy, 8–10-meter rocky section to reach the summit of Fytnergyn. 6–8 hours from the plateau. Fig. 8.

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: