- Tikhtengen South via the Eastern ridge (route is combined, T. Longstaff, cat.4B, fig. 20, 23). From the initial bivouac on Tsanner flats (item 141) move across the plateau towards the snowy couloir of the Eastern ridge of Tikhtengen saddle, to the right of the steep ascent to pyramidal IV and three small gendarmes. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 200-250 m up the snowy couloir to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend rocks of above average difficulty, then ascend snowy rocks of average difficulty of the Eastern ridge to reach the I gendarme. Further, traverse snowy rocks of average difficulty of the Eastern ridge, pass II and III gendarmes and reach the saddle.
From the saddle, ascend 200-250 m up steep rocks of average difficulty with short walls of above average difficulty of the Eastern ridge to the IV gendarme (“Piramida”). Further, follow the heavily cut snowy and rocky Eastern ridge of average difficulty with short difficult and above average difficulty walls and sharp snowy ridges (cornices, “live” rocks), pass V, VI, VII gendarmes, with an 80 m descent down a steep sharp snowy (cornices) rocky ridge to the saddle below the summit ascent. Bivouac on the saddle. From the initial bivouac, the ascent takes 8-12 hours.
From the saddle (without backpacks), ascend a 40-meter steep snowy slope (loose snow). Further, follow a 250-300-meter heavily snowed simple, partially steep, average difficulty (“live” rocks) Eastern ridge to reach the summit of Tikhtengen South. From the bivouac, the ascent takes 2-3 hours.