51. Fytnergyn via Western Ridge

(combined route, Yu. Porokhnya, category III, fig. 5, 8). Follow the Northwest cirque plateau (point 45) to reach the broad ice-and-snow slope of the Western Ridge saddle of Fytnergyn. 1.5–2 hours from Zeskho Pass.

From the plateau, keeping to the rocks on the left side, cross the bergschrund and ascend 200–250 m up the ice-and-snow slope (avalanche risk, protection) to the right side of the Western Ridge saddle of Fytnergyn. About 1 hour from the plateau.

Here, turn right and ascend 40 m up easy rocks of the Western Ridge to the base of the first pinnacle. Traverse it on the left and then ascend steep moderate rocks («loose» stones, pitons) to the Western Ridge. Then follow 200 m along easy, crumbling ridge rocks to the second pinnacle (crux).

Ascend 40–45 m up moderate rocks of the Western Ridge (piton protection) to the second pinnacle. From it, descend 3–4 m to a connecting ridge, from which traverse 15–20 m to the left of the third pinnacle along a ledge. Then ascend 30 m up a sheer icy chimney or, left of it, up smooth moderate slabs («live» pitons) to the Western Ridge at the third pinnacle. Further, follow easy, crumbling, snowy (cornices), occasionally steep Western Ridge, overcoming the fourth pinnacle head-on, to reach easy snowy rocks below the summit rise.

Ascend a simple, narrow, 30-meter ice-and-snow Western Ridge, then a steep, 50–60-meter ice-and-snow northern slope (protection) of the rise, and finally a steep, easy, 8–10-meter rocky section to reach the summit of Fytnergyn. 6–8 hours from the plateau.

Fig. 8.