Introduction

In the center of the Pamir Mountains, in an area that remained a "blank spot" for a long time, between two seven-thousander peaks — Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) and Peak Evgeniya Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) — stands a nameless peak marked on the map as "5691". The summit ridge stretches from east to west and divides the Moskvina Glacier into two branches; to the north and south, the ridge drops off with ice falls and sheer walls. The highest point of the peak is located in the eastern part of the ridge. This area was not mapped until the early 1930s, and even after that, it was rarely visited — the approaches to the upper reaches of the Moskvina Glacier were too difficult. N.V. Krylenko with two companions was the first to circumnavigate the peak in 1933. His note lay in a large cairn at the lower point of the East Ridge for 33 years! Later, despite the inaccessibility, the area around Peak E. Korzhenevskoi was visited several times by various groups and even entire expeditions, but no attempt was made to climb the nameless peak "5691", which is an excellent panoramic point in the area. In July-August 1966, an expedition from the Central Sports and Tourism Council of the "Burevestnik" sports organization worked in the upper reaches of the Moskvina Glacier, with the goal of making several ascents of Peak E. Korzhenevskoi via new routes. During the high-altitude acclimatization, one of the expedition groups made the first ascent of the nameless peak "5691" on August 1, 1966, dedicating the climb to the 20th anniversary of the Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.

Description of the Route via the East Ridge

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude class

2018

REPORT of the Rostov-Arkhangelsk region team on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the Borodkin route

Ascent Details

1. Region: 4. PAMIR 4.1. Academy of Sciences range (western side of Fedchenko glacier from Yazgulyam pass in the south to Muksu river in the north with all lateral spurs)

24

Report

On the first ascent of the route to peak Osypnoy via the north-west ridge, category 4A (approximately), accomplished by a "two-person team" from the KBVO training camp on August 12, 1979. TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route Team captain M. Sabirov Base camp of the KBVO training camp ↓ overnight stay location — route of movement. Brief description of the approach to the route. From the base camp, located near the lakes on the bank of the Vanch River, follow the road to the bridge over the Abdukagor River (0.3 hours). Cross the bridge. To the left, a trail begins, leading to the start of the Russian Geographic Society glacier. Follow it to the lateral moraine (1 hour). Then along the moraine (cairns) to the stream flowing from the slopes of peak Osypnoy and v. Krasnoarmeets. Up the stream to a large boulder. Overnight stay (camping site). www.alpfederation.ru![img-2.jpeg]({"width":2328,"height":1601,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/O34S8jYJsRflYhiikg4lWtqTcFnmrt0v/img-2.jpeg","id":64763968})

ROUTE DESCRIPTION 5585

(Pik Cherepanova)

ASCENT TO THE UNNAMED PEAK "5700" THIRD FROM THE EAST IN THE TANIMAS RIDGE VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE

(re-ascent)

Group composition:

1. BOGOMOLOV V.F. - leader (III sports category)
2. OLESHKO V.M. - participant (II sports category)
3. BOGOMOLOVA G.A. - participant (II sports category)
4. EGOROV P.V. - trainer-observer (Master of Sports)

Duration

270530

Report

8

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF KOMURZANG PEAK (4653 m) VIA THE WEST RIDGE, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY Komurzan Peak is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Vanch Range. It is clearly visible from the Vanch River valley between the villages of Sungat and Garmchashma. It is a triangular peak with moderately pronounced counterforts between the West and Northwest ridges. A large snowfield lies between these ridges, transitioning into a canyon.

Approach to the Route Description

From the base camp in the Vanch River valley between the villages of Garmchashma and Sungat, proceed to the West ridge and follow it to the "letovka" (3–3.5 hours). Continue along the ridge with rock outcrops to the start of the ridge ascent (3–3.5 hours) — the overnight location. A tent site can be prepared on the ridge; snow is available on the northern slope, but there is no water.

Route Description

From the overnight location, ascend the severely damaged rock ridge with small (2–5 m) walls to the red wall (section R0–R1, 1.5–2 hours). Movement is simultaneous, with insurance through ledges at certain points. At the base of the red wall, there is a control cairn on a platform (rockfall hazard!). The red wall (section R1–R2) — 1.5 ropes — is traversed on the right side, with an exit to the left at the top ("live" rocks, pitons!). There are no convenient locations for organizing insurance on this section.

Individual ice seracs reach 50–550. The snow is not deep — 30–40 cm, but it lies on a firn cushion. Movement with alternating belay through ice axe. In the upper part, before reaching the pre-summit ridge:

• the slope is more gentle
• simultaneous movement On the ridge leading to the summit, there are a number of snow seracs. The steepness of these seracs is 60–65°. The seracs drop off with sheer walls to the west, and to the east, they slope down with steep snow-ice slopes. The snow is fluffy and deep. It takes a long time to stamp out footholds. The exit to the summit is along a sharp rocky-snowy edge. A cairn is built 3–4 m below the highest point on the last rocky outcrop. The time taken to move from the highest point of the wall from the overnight stop to the summit is 5–6 hours. The descent from the summit is along the eastern ridge to the "stockade", which is bypassed on the right, following the path, with an exit onto a snowy ridge that goes across the main ridge leading to the summit of 5050 m. There is a place to spend the night in a characteristic hollow. On the summit of 5050 m, a 4th control cairn is built. The time taken to move from the summit of 5285 m to 5050 m is 1.5–2.0 hours. The descent from the summit of 5050 m is along a snowy edge — a "needle" — to the north. The edge is very sharp and dense, 10–15 cm wide. To the left, there is a steep slope with dense firn; to the right, there is deep snow that gives way underfoot. Descent along the "needle" to the rocky outcrops:

Climbing Report on Peak Lenin via Arkin's Route (Variation)

Climbing Details:

1. Pamir. Peak Lenin, 7134 m. Via the center of the north face, Arkin's route. Route type – snow and ice. Route elevation gain 2700 m.
2. Climbing style: alpine.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route – 40–45°.
4. Pitons left on the route: 0

PLATEAU 6100 NORTHERN SLOPE OF THE EASTERN RIDGE OF PEAK LENIN

Climbing Description

The ascent route follows the path to Peak Lenin via Lipkin Rock.

Day 1

From the base camp at 3600 m, the path goes through pastures and "Onion Glade" to the foot of "Tent Rock." Then, through a lateral gorge, it follows a trail that leads to a saddle in the ridge named "Travelers' Pass." From "Travelers' Pass," the trail initially descends and then traverses to the right across talus slopes, crosses a canyon, and bypasses a standalone rock on the left. Upon reaching the glacier, a zone of lateral crevasses is encountered. The ice is heavily covered with debris. The path up the glacier towards Lipkin Rock initially follows its middle part and then, bypassing the icefall on the right, moves to the right orographic moraine, which is a chain of black hills of talus material extending from the foot of Lipkin Rock. The glacier in its upper part is closed, requiring travel in ropes. At the moraine near the foot of Lipkin Rock, there is a large area suitable for overnight stays, a common stop for many expeditions heading to Peak Lenin from the north. The height of this location is 4200 m. There is water available, and many areas for tents. The journey from the "Vysochnik" alpine camp to the 4200 m overnight stay took 6 hours. We take a one-hour rest to prepare hot food. We bypass Lipkin Rock on the right and, entering a wide snowy couloir, ascend through the snow, cutting steps, to the ridge of Lipkin Rock, marked in descriptions as 5200 m. The ascent to Lipkin Rock from 4200 m took 2 hours. On the ridge, there are many cleared areas for tents, and on the snowy plateau to the left of the ridge, water can be uncovered under the snow. On a terrace below the ridge, the remains of Lipkin's plane are visible.

REPORT

On Ascent to Lenin Peak 7134 m via the South-West Ridge of the Western Crest (First Ascent of the Route)

1. ASCENT DETAILS

1. Region: Zaalaysky Range (Pamir). Valley: Malaya Saukdara. Section number according to the classification table – 4.4
2. Name of the peak: Lenin Peak. Name of the route: via the South-West Ridge of the Western Crest.
3. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: snow-ice.
5. Height difference on the route: 1134 m (by GPS).

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: