ROUTE DESCRIPTION 5585

(Pik Cherepanova)

ASCENT TO THE UNNAMED PEAK "5700" THIRD FROM THE EAST IN THE TANIMAS RIDGE VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE

(re-ascent)

Group composition:

1. BOGOMOLOV V.F. - leader (III sports category)
2. OLESHKO V.M. - participant (II sports category)
3. BOGOMOLOVA G.A. - participant (II sports category)
4. EGOROV P.V. - trainer-observer (Master of Sports)

Duration

The route was completed in 5 days from August 2 to 6, 1967, by a sports group from the Sverdlovsk anniversary Pamir expedition.

Orography of the area

Peak "5700" is the third peak from the east in the Tanymas Ridge, which separates the Maly Tanymas glacier from the Bivachny glacier and stretches latitudinally parallel to the Altyn-Mazar Alps.

The Tanymas Ridge, starting from the terminal moraine of the Fedchenko glacier in the west, gains height as it approaches the Academy of Sciences Ridge. The first two peaks of the ridge are rocky and less than 5000 m high, while the subsequent peaks are around 6000 m with a significant snow and ice cover. Peak "5700" is a representative of the second group - a beautiful pointed peak, almost completely covered with ice and snow, with a significant prominence over the peaks and ridge of the eastern part of the Tanymas Ridge.

The route via the northern ridge is the simplest visible from the northern slopes but is quite interesting and challenging.

Approach

The ascent began from the "2900" camp at 10:00 on August 2, 1967. The group crossed the Maly Tanymas river using a hydrologists' cable and turned into the Maly Tanymas valley along the terminal moraine of the Fedchenko glacier. After 1 hour of walking, one should ascend 70 m up the steep, cemented scree on the right (orographic) slope to its gentler part. The movement in this part of the route is straightforward, with challenging sections only when crossing lateral tributaries that cut through the slope with deep canyons having scree and rocky walls.

Ascent route

On August 4, 1967, at 10:00, the group continued the route. For 1 hour, they continued along the "pocket" and reached the foot of the northern slope of the northern ridge of the peak. From here, the direct ascent to the peak began. By traversing to the right, they gradually gained height on the grassy slope to reach the western slopes of the northern ridge.

The ascent continues with various challenges, including steep snow and ice slopes, requiring crampons, ice axes, and careful rope protection. The group encountered significant difficulties on sections R7-R8 and R9-R10, with steep ice and snow slopes requiring piton protection.

The group reached the summit after a challenging ascent, overcoming steep snow and ice slopes, and finally reached a small, flat, snowy area. The descent followed the same route as the ascent.

Summary data on the route

1. Peak height - 5680 m. Elevation gain from the "2900" camp - 2780 m.
2. Rock type - shale.
3. Challenging sections: a) Section R7-R8 - steep ice slope (45-50°), 8 rope lengths, requiring piton protection. b) Sections R9-R10 and R10-R11 - steep ice and snow slopes up to 60° with deep, loose snow in the upper part. c) Sections R6-R7 and R9-R10 require careful protection due to numerous hidden crevasses.

The description was compiled by: BOGOMOLOV V.F. Group participants: OLESHKO V.M., BOGOMOLOVA G.A.