1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay
3. Climbing route with peak names and elevations: via the NE wall of Zindon 4800 m (O. Shumilov's route), second complete ascent
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
5. Route description: elevation gain — 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 930 m, average steepness — 80°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying (for creating intermediate belay anchors): rock — 318/40, ice — 27, bolt — 7/14
7. Total climbing hours — 57
8. Number of bivouacs and their description:

v. Politekhnik, 3B, via North Ridge (V. Vydrik route, 71)

Ascent Record

Ascent class: rock Region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route description:

• elevation gain — 700 m; © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin» © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin»

Report

On the ascent of

p. Saryshakh, 5B, via the right part of the northwestern wall

Black Ice Club Team

Team Leader

Poliakov M. A.

Participants

Stepanov N. A.

1. Route classification: Technical.
2. Mountain region: Gissar-Alai, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.

PIK SOAN (4750) via "poske" 4A cat. dif. The peak SOAN is separated from the Zindon summit to the south by a ridge, from which a descent is possible to the east, to the Pravy Zindon glacier, and also a descent to the west, into the Levyy Zindon river valley. To the north, Pik SOAN is separated by a wide ridge, gently descending to the terminal moraine of the Pravy Zindon glacier and connecting Pik SOAN with a double-peaked summit. On the left (when viewed from the Pravy Zindon glacier) peak of this double-peaked summit, an ascent was made and it is rated as 3B cat. dif. (Pik Chaplygina). The descent from the ridge to the west is apparently difficult due to "ram's foreheads" that drop off in its lower part into the Levyy Zindon valley. The eastern wall of Pik SOAN is approximately 500 m of sheer cliffs made of marbleized limestone and a steep ridge above them.

From leaving for the route to descending to the glacier, the group spent 13.5 hours on the route, including rest on the ridge, at the summit, and on the col. Time breakdown by sections:

• Leaving the bivouac on the right moraine of Chimtarginsky Pass
• Approaching the bergschrund
• 1.5 hours Ascending ice to the rocky ridge
• 4.5 hours Ascending rocks to the pre-summit ridge
• 3.0 hours ascending the ridge to the summit

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Chapdara (5297 m) via the left part of the western wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty.

Team of Sports Club "Polytechnic"

August 20–23, 1971

Team Composition

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Fann Mountains, Arg valley
3. Peak Arg, 4200 m, via the north wall (variant by A. Maly)
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain 1200 m route length 1805 m, including 525 m of category U–U1 sections
6. Pitons used: rock pitons: 78 bolt pitons: 6*

The name of the Sbboric peak is local. Translated from Tajik, it means thin water. Apparently, the name was given to the peak due to a stream running down from the peak's snowfields into the Archa — Maidan river. The Obborik peak is located in the southwestern spur of the ridge, running from the Pushnovat peak. The peak has the form of rocky towers, from which a long ridge stretches westwards all the way to the confluence of the Archa-Maidan and Pushnovat rivers. From the Sbboric peak, the northern slopes of the Dukhsar massif are clearly visible.

Description of the ascent

On August 23, 1963, at 7:60, the group left the base camp, crossed the Pushnovat river, and ascended the grassy slopes to the beginning of the long ridge leading to the peak. This ascent took 40 minutes.

61

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to the peak Selegrad, cat. III first ascent via the South-West ridge Peak Selegrad. Start of the ascent to the South-West ridge. --- previously traversed route, cat. III

Another rope is needed on the snow-ice section, which turns into the cupola of the forepeak — 5270 m. 10 hours from the second overnight stay. From the forepeak, a 10 m descent and then simple rocks, followed by a snowpatch, lead to the ascent to the summit (fig. 1–6). Descent follows the ascent route down to the pass. From the ridge down into the left gorge along the middle axis down to the canyon. Further down to the left onto the ridge's northwest spur. From the ridge, descend along the fine scree and the Ksheshi river and along the right (geographical) side of the river down to the small bridge near the kettle, then along the trail to the base camp. 8–10 hours from the initial overnight stays. Recommendations for climbers.

1. Number of participants — 4 people
2. Time of departure from camp — first half of the day.
3. Places for picketing bivouacs — below the pass, in the couloir, in the depression between the forepeak and the summit, and in places indicated in the description.
4. Equipment — main rope 2×40 m, auxiliary rope 1×40 m, expendable reepschnur — 1×10 m, rock pitons — 20 pcs, non-withdrawable pitons — 7 pcs, rock hammers — 2 pcs, carabiners — 12–15 pcs, ice screws — 4 pairs, tent — 1 pc.