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Route Description: Ю склону
Description of a mountain route via the glacier from the Teztor gorge, including the complexity categories and length of the sections.
Route description.
| Section | Cat. difficulty | Steepness | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 1A | 15–25° | 3500 m |
| R1–R2 | 1B | 35–40° | 300 m |
| R2–R3 | 1B | 20–30° | 700 m |
| R0–R1 — the route starts from the Tesz Tor gorge, ascending from the 3350 m campsite via grassy terraces turning into a stony couloir that leads to the glacier. | |||
| R1–R2 — scree slope 35–40°. R2–R3 — ridge. Descent is done via the ascent route. |
Description of the ascent route in the mountains with a detailed map-diagram of the area.
Map - diagram of the climbing area.
C
S
. St. Catherine
4244 m
Tesztor campsite
3350 m.
p. Adygene
4393 m.
p. Elektro
Route Description: С гребню
Description of a challenging climbing route with ice and rock sections, featuring hazardous cornices and unstable rocks.
Brief description of the route by sections
Sections R0–R2. Snow and ice slope. Simultaneous movement. Insurance through ice screws. Crossing bergschrunds via snow bridges. Sections R2–R4. Rocky gully and a series of walls. Rocks are destroyed, iced over. The most difficult section on the route. Insurance:
- pitons
- nuts In the upper part of the gully, behind a jendarme, there's a control cairn. Alternating movement. Sections R4–R5. Rocky ridge, very sharp. Loose rocks, everything is snowy, overhanging cornices! Insurance via rock outcrops. Alternating-simultaneous movement.
Route Description: с севера
Description of the classic routes to the summit of Teke-Tor: category 3B route and Mukhamedov's category 3A route.
- Teke-Tor (Category 3B).
- Muhamedova (Category 3A) 57.
Route Description: С ребру с пер. Дикий
Report on the ascent of Pik Pobedy (7439 m) via the North Ridge from Diky Pass, category 5B, made by Belarusian climbers in 2019.
Belarusian Federation of Alpinism
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Peak Pobeda 7439, Zap. Pobeda, Main, via the north edge from Dikiy Pass, 5B, by D. Medzmariashvili 2019
Route Passport
- Mountain region: Tian Shan, Kyrgyzstan.
- Name of the summit: Peak Pobeda (7439 m).
- Category of difficulty: 5B high-altitude.
- Nature of the route: snow-rock-ice.
- Route:
- Zvezdochka glacier, Dikiy Pass, Peak Pobeda West along the northern edge, Peak Pobeda Main, 7439 m, descent via the ascent route;
Route Description: С гребню
Ascent certificate for Sadko Peak (3970 m) via the North Ridge, complexity category 2B, combined route.
Ascent Passport
1 Ascent class — combined 2 Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge 3 Peak — Sadko, height — 3970 m, route via North ridge, rocky 4 Presumed category of difficulty — 2B 5 Route characteristics: — height difference — 500 m — average steepness — 30° — sections of 5th category of difficulty — none 6 Pitons driven:
Route Description: Ю гребню с л. Манас
Description of the route to the summit of Manas via the Lateral Ridge: a technically easy ascent with belay elements.
From bivouac 3300 "Майские ночёвки", located on the Manas glacier moraine, entrance on the right side (in the direction of travel) of the glacier - 2 hours walk under the saddle. Ascent to the saddle on a snowy slope 30-35°, between Bokovoy Manas and Manas Glavny. Here you should rope up. Further movement along the Bokovoe ridge, on large-block talus, steepness 30-35°; movement - 1 hour. From the ridge, descend into a 10 m gap, handrails are necessary, protection via ledges, pitons. Further ascent to the summit on talus, here too handrails are recommended.
Route Description: правой части Ю стены
Report on the ascent to **peak Konstruktors** via the right part of the South wall, category 5B, made by the MPEI team in 2013.
MOSCOW CITY ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 TECHNICAL ASCENT CLASS
Report
ON ASCENDING THE SUMMIT OF p. Konstruktors via 5B cat. diff. route (right part of the South face, variation) The route was climbed by the MPEI team on June 26-27, 2013 (duo: Romanov Alexey, Dorfman Roman) Moscow, 2013
Ascent Passport
- Ascent area: Pamiro-Alai, Altai ridge, Gadzhir gorge.
- Ascent route: p. Konstruktors, right part of the South face (variation of L. Krasnukhin's route)
- Route characteristics: rock
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of a mountain route to the summit at 4080 m with a detailed analysis of the path, technical characteristics of the sections, and recommendations for passage and descent.
Brief description of the approach to the route.
From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow up to the bridge over the Kok-su River. Then along the left bank of the Begichi River on a horse trail.
The trail:
- crosses to the right bank;
- then back to the left;
- and leads to a talus cone overgrown with grass (1.5 hours walk from the base camp).
From the base of the cone to the right - upwards is a couloir. The summit at 4080 m is visible. Ascent via the couloir (along the old stream bed) to the start of the route.
Route main characteristics table
Route Description: 2-му баст. Ю стены
Description of the route "Aylama via the II bastion of the South wall" (5B cat.), combined, with a detailed analysis of key sections and technical details.
74. Aylama via the II bastion of the South Face (a combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat., fig. 5, 15, 16).
From the platform at the top of the Left Rib (point 72):
- 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the bergschrund;
- after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 40 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the rocks on the right side of the III bastion;
- from here, 40 m across simple rocks. Up to the wall. 30 m up difficult rocks of the wall with a crack onto a ledge. Then directly up 8–10 m across rocks of medium difficulty, then 12 m up the wall to a small platform, from where there is a 40 m ascent up rocks of medium difficulty to a platform under a large boulder. From the platform on the Left Rib, it takes 3–4 hours.