Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Caucasus, Kichkinekol gorge
3. Dolomit Severny peak via the central bastion of the western wall
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 607 m, length — 698 m. Length of sections 5 — 248 m. Average steepness of main sections — 78°, including 5 — 80°.
6. Pitons driven: — rock: 5

Fig. 39

3. Ascent to the summit of Glavny Ptysh via the "tie" — beyond the category of difficulty (see Fig. 39)

From the Ptyshsky pass, move right along the glacier (protection!) towards a large rocky ridge. Ascend the rocky ridge 40–50 m upwards to a bivouac. From the pass, it takes 1 hour. From the bivouac, ascend 90–100 m upwards along the broken rocks (rockfall hazard!), exit onto a snowy slope with a steepness of 35–40°, and from there, move right-upwards towards a rocky outcrop. Ascend 50–60 m up the rocky outcrop (protection via protrusions!), exit onto a steep snowy slope (45°), and from there, cross a bergschrund onto a rocky outcrop in the "tie" couloir. Ascend 40 m up the rocks (protection via protrusions!), then traverse the steep snowy couloir leftwards (protection!), and exit onto rocks. Ascend 60 m up the rocks (protection via protrusions!) to a steep snowy slope (60–65°), and from there, ascend 180–200 m straight upwards (protection!) to a platform to the right of a gendarme. To the right of the gendarme, ascend scree, then move left behind the gendarme along rocks of medium difficulty towards a narrow icy couloir. Cross the couloir leftwards (piton protection!), exit onto rocks of medium difficulty, and ascend straight upwards onto a ridge. Ascend to the summit along the broken rocks of the ridge. From the bivouac on the rocky outcrop to the summit, it takes 6 hours. The descent follows the ascent route and takes 5–6 hours. The route from the bergschrund to the summit is prone to rockfall!

Recommendations for climbers

1. The number of participants in a group should not exceed 6 people.
2. The initial bivouac is on a rocky ridge.
3. Departure time from the bivouac should not be later than 4 am.

М92. Dolomit Severny - Yuzhny traverse with ascent via the western wall (rock route, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severny is done via the left variant of the М89 route. From R1, move left under the black wet slabs. Then right-upwards along the wall composed of individual blocks and internal corners (good placement for protection with nuts). At the end of the wall, a large boulder serves as a landmark. On the green ledge, protection is via a flake. Then, via an internal corner, another green ledge, and one more internal corner, ascend to a large talus ledge R8. The further ascent follows the М89 route. From the Northern summit, descend along the severely degraded ridge to the col towards the Central summit. The ascent to it is done from the left of the ridge, along the boundary between snow and rock, and via a steep snowy ascent. The further traverse to the Southern summit follows the М91 route. The section R14-R13 is traversed from the left along a rock flake and the boundary between snow and rock (good placement for large-sized nuts). The rocks here are wet, with water dripping, and in the mornings, there is ice. The descent from the Southern summit follows the М84 route.

The Zamok from the Burevestnik Pass, combined, 4A

Route Description:

From the bivouac in the green "pocket" (left of the exit of the "ram's foreheads"), ascend to the large step. From it, along the ridge of the huge gray moraine, reach the plateau of the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier. From the plateau, via a snowy slope with a bergschrund (cross either on the bridge or under the slopes of Filtr or Kichkinekol), and above it — up a steep 150-meter snow-ice slope and short scree — ascend to the Kichkinekol pass. From the bivouac — 5 hours. From the pass, descend to the plateau of the Zamok glacier along simple snowy slopes. Along the snowy fields under the walls of the Filtr peak, proceed in the direction of the Burevestnik pass between the Filtr and Zamok peaks. Up a snowy couloir (45°), along its right side, and higher — up an icy groove, overcoming the randkluft, reach the rocks. Along them, sometimes exiting onto the snowy part of the slope, ascend to the Burevestnik pass. Here is a convenient bivouac. From the Kichkinekol pass — 2.5 hours. From the bivouac — along the snowy ridge of Zamok, bypassing the overhanging rocks like a gendarme on the right, along the boundary of snow and rocks, and further along the stepped rocks, slabs, and small snowfields, reach below the black gendarme R3. Bypass it on the right along the boundary of snow and rocks. Then, along the ledges and a vertical 40-meter internal corner R5, ascend to the top of the gendarme. Here is a bivouac site. From the Burevestnik pass — 3.5 hours. From the sites on the gendarme, along the left side of the snowy ridge (on the right — cornices!), approach the gendarme R8. Bypass it on the left along stepped rocks, then "ram's foreheads" and a steep snowy couloir, up which — to the right — to a large horizontal slab. From the slab, along a snowy, местами osypnoy, slope and ruined rocks, reach the Western summit (stones!). From the black gendarme — 3–4 hours.

Elbrus divides the surrounding mountains into two very different areas. The Baksan area with its peaks around 4000 m and above is much harsher in terms of climbing conditions compared to the Western Caucasus regions. This is evidenced by:

• large altitude differences,
• heavily broken glaciers,
• mandatory snow at high altitudes. In contrast, the area west of Elbrus — Uzun-kol — is mostly purely rocky. All peaks in this area (except Gvandra) are below 4000 m. Climbing usually doesn't involve overcoming significant glaciers, and all steep slopes are free of snow and ice. The Zamok peak is located in the Main Caucasus Range. Together with Dalar and Dvoinyashka, it forms the base of a horseshoe that encompasses the upper reaches of the Kichkinekol River, which, merging with Mordy, forms Uzun-kol. In terms of height, Zamok (3930 m) is second only to:
• Gvandra
• Dalar The two peaks of Zamok — Eastern and Western — are situated on a ridge, the northwestern part of which leads to Dvoinyashka, while the southeastern part stretches in an arc, curving around the Zamok glacier from the south. This southeastern part of the ridge had not been traversed before the ascent described below. To the northeast from the Western peak of Zamok, a ridge leads, steeply descending to the Burvestnik pass, and then slowly rising to the Filter peak. To the south-southwest from the same Western peak, the South Counterforce extends. Significantly west of both Zamok peaks and all its gendarmes, the North Counterforce leads to the Bolshoy Kichkinekol glacier. The main difficulty in climbing in the Uzun-kol area lies in overcoming complex rock walls of heavily broken rock ridges; however, climbs usually don't take much time. Examples of relatively short but extremely complex routes include the well-known wall routes:

Ascent to the summit Zamok 3981 m via the northwestern ice-snow wall, approximately 5A category of difficulty. The first passage of the specified route was made in 1977 by a team from the "Uzunkol" camp, consisting of:

• Korablin B.N. - Master of Sports of the USSR - leader
• Oshche E.A. - Candidate Master of Sports
• Rybakov M.I. - Candidate Master of Sports
• Popov V.I. - Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - ice-snow
2. Ascent area - Western Caucasus, Gvandra region

Castle East — West from the Burevestnik col to Dvoinyashka, combined, 4B

Route description:

The ascent to the Castle West peak is described in the "Castle from the Burevestnik col" route. From it, descend to the saddle (cornices!). Via broken rocks and a short wall, reach the East peak. Return to the West peak via the ascent route. From it, descend to the south side of the ridge via R1–R3 ledges and traverse around a small gendarme R3–R4 and then the "Beak" gendarme R4–R5 via a narrow ledge half a foot wide (tense climbing). Via a 15-meter internal corner, reach the top of the "Beak" gendarme and rappel down to the ridge R7. From here, 50 m of difficult ridge rock climbing follows to the last gendarme, climbed "head-on" via a difficult wall (no bypass!). Then, via a 500-meter (cornices!), and from R11 steep (50°) snowy ridge, reach the saddle between the Castle and Dvoinyashka. From the West peak — 12–14 hours. Descend from the saddle by rappelling left down a steep narrow couloir (falling rocks!) to a narrow, indistinct ledge. From it, rappel down 30 m. Then, via a steep snowy couloir, snowy slopes, and scree ledges and terraces, descend to the scree plateau under the Castle's southern slope. From the saddle — 4–6 hours. From the plateau, via scree terraces, bypassing the Dvoinyashka and Dalar peaks from the south, ascend to the Dalar col. From the plateau — 3.5 hours.

• equipment recommendations: see the "Castle via the eastern ridge" route;
• the R4–R5 ledge is a psychologically tense section of the route. (1) — view from the southern side

Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

Ascent route from the west via the snowy "necktie" 3A cat. diff. From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the Mordy glacier moraine - from here, follow the trail along the grassy slopes to a large green terrace. The bivouac site - "Mordy overnight stay" - is 3-3.5 hours from the camp. From the overnight stay, head right-up along the trail to the Mordy glacier plateau. Cross the plateau and approach the snowy slopes of the "necktie". It takes 45-50 minutes from the bivouac. From here, ascend the snowy slope to the 1st rocky island (in rope teams!). Bypass the island from either side, then ascend to the next black rocky island. Bypass it on the right via a snowy bridge over the bergschrund (Belay!). Ascend the snowy slope to a long rocky island. Climb the rocks to its upper part and again transition to a steep snow slope (45° Belay!). Follow the snow slope to a rocky wall located above - to the right of a small spur of a rocky ridge. Crossing the snowy slope to the wall takes 2.5-3 hours. Along the rocky wall (60°) traverse left to a small ledge - 50-55 m (Belay! Pitons!). From here, 40 m right-up (pitons!) and 40 m left slightly up to the base of a rocky chute. Follow the chute (Piton! 30 m) to its exit and then along easy rocks to the end of the wall - 3 ropes. Above the wall is a platform - here is a control point. From the platform, follow simple rocks and small snowfields to reach the snowy ridge. It takes 3-3.5 hours from the start of the rocky wall to reach the ridge. Follow the snowy ridge to the summit - 40-50 minutes. The descent from the summit via route 1B to the Dalar pass and return to "Mordy overnight stay" takes 3-4 hours. Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 4:00 am.

Kichkinelkol from Talychat Pass, combined, 2B

Route Description

From the ice bivouacs, cross the Sredniy Kichkinelkol glacier plateau to reach the slopes of Talychat Pass, located to the left of Kichkinelkol peak. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Cross via a bridge or the rock shelves of the island adjacent to the left edge of the bergschrund (rocks are heavily damaged, beware of falling stones!). Then, ascend the left side of the snowy couloir, with a steepness of up to 45°, to reach Talychat Pass (beware of stones!). In the second half of summer, fine and loose scree appears in the upper part of the couloir. Traverse close to the Talychat rocks or leftwards via shelves and individual rock outcrops («live» stones!). From the bivouac to the pass — 3–4 hours. From the pass, move to the eastern side of the ridge, then traverse 40 m via shelves, followed by an ascent up two internal corners to the left of the large rock wall R1 to an inclined shelf between R3 and R4. From there, ascend short walls and blocks to reach the main ridge at R5. Alternative ascent from the pass (if there's no snow):

• Ascend an internal corner past the ridge line to an inclined shelf.
• Then, climb a steep wall to reach the main ridge and proceed to R5 along it. From R5, ascend the ridge and slightly below it, which is composed of inclined slabs, to reach the summit. From the pass — 3–4 hours. Descent follows the «Kichkinelkol from Kichkinelkol Pass» route.
• Begin the ascent to Talychat Pass at 5:00–6:00 am.

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.