The Zamok from the Burevestnik Pass, combined, 4A
Route Description:
From the bivouac in the green "pocket" (left of the exit of the "ram's foreheads"), ascend to the large step. From it, along the ridge of the huge gray moraine, reach the plateau of the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier. From the plateau, via a snowy slope with a bergschrund (cross either on the bridge or under the slopes of Filtr or Kichkinekol), and above it — up a steep 150-meter snow-ice slope and short scree — ascend to the Kichkinekol pass. From the bivouac — 5 hours.
From the pass, descend to the plateau of the Zamok glacier along simple snowy slopes. Along the snowy fields under the walls of the Filtr peak, proceed in the direction of the Burevestnik pass between the Filtr and Zamok peaks. Up a snowy couloir (45°), along its right side, and higher — up an icy groove, overcoming the randkluft, reach the rocks. Along them, sometimes exiting onto the snowy part of the slope, ascend to the Burevestnik pass. Here is a convenient bivouac. From the Kichkinekol pass — 2.5 hours.
From the bivouac — along the snowy ridge of Zamok, bypassing the overhanging rocks like a gendarme on the right, along the boundary of snow and rocks, and further along the stepped rocks, slabs, and small snowfields, reach below the black gendarme R3. Bypass it on the right along the boundary of snow and rocks. Then, along the ledges and a vertical 40-meter internal corner R5, ascend to the top of the gendarme. Here is a bivouac site. From the Burevestnik pass — 3.5 hours.
From the sites on the gendarme, along the left side of the snowy ridge (on the right — cornices!), approach the gendarme R8. Bypass it on the left along stepped rocks, then "ram's foreheads" and a steep snowy couloir, up which — to the right — to a large horizontal slab.
From the slab, along a snowy, местами osypnoy, slope and ruined rocks, reach the Western summit (stones!). From the black gendarme — 3–4 hours.
The descent from the summit to the Burevestnik pass via the ascent route takes 4–5 hours.
