120. Bzhedug via the Southeast Ridge (Category II route) The path from the Djantugan alp camp to the "Ryzhie" ("Red") Rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier is described in Route 118. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks (without backpacks), descend to the right onto the Kashkatash Glacier and ascend on its left side (beware of crevasses!). The icefall is bypassed on the left under the slopes of Ullukara Peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). After the icefall, move to the right onto the upper snow plateau of the Kashkatash Glacier. Move up the plateau - to the right under the col of the ridge between Bzhedug Peak on the right and Volnaya Ispaniya (Free Spain) Peak on the left. From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 1.5-2 hours. From the upper plateau of the glacier, ascend the steep, partially rugged snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya Peak (avalanches and icefall are possible from Bzhedug!). It is better to bypass the crevasses on the slope on the left. A large crevasse crossing almost the entire slope not far from the col should be overcome via a snow bridge or bypassed on the right. After the crevasse - up the steep snow slope and a small ice-snow ascent to the narrow snow ridge of the col (beware of cornices!). From the sites near the "Ryzhie" Rocks on the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash Glacier - 4-5 hours. At the col, turn to the right and ascend the snowy Southeast Ridge of Bzhedug Peak, which gradually turns into a snow slope. Further:

• along the scree ridge - slope,
• along the gently sloping snow ridge - ascent to the summit of Bzhedug. From the col - 1-2 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. To the Djantugan alp camp - 4-5 hours. Duration of the route - 2 days. Special equipment for 4 people:
• main rope - 2 × 30 m,

в. Бжедух, 4270 m, via North ridge, lс, 3Б cat. sl., L. Distel's route, R0. From Джантуган ASB we ascend to overnight stays below the "Red rocks". From the overnight stays we exit via the Кашка — Таш glacier in the direction of the big couloir of the north ridge of в. Бжедух. We ascend via snow in the couloir to the upper part of the rocky island. Traversing the destroyed rocks upwards to the right, we exit to the boundary of rocks and snow. In the upper part of the ridge we circumvent small rocky walls with a traverse to the left — upwards to the ridge (from overnight stays 90–120 min). On the ridge we move along the scree towards в. Бжедух. Having passed the wide part of the ridge along the screes to the rocky section rising towards the summit, we traverse 100–120 m. The descent from the ridge down to the Бжедух glacier is not difficult (from the start of the ridge to the descent to the glacier — 60–75 min). About an hour is needed to walk along the glacier to the snowy ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the right. Further, the path goes along a snowy-icy ascent:

• At the end — an icy ascent.
• Move on front points with insurance via ice screws.
• In the upper part, icy overhangs loom.
• Pass the entire snowy ridge to the left of these overhangs (4–5 hours).

V. Blud­ukh, 4270 m, via NW wall, cat. dif. 4A, A. Ro­ma­nov's route, 56 From the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp, follow the right side of the Shkhelda gorge down to the Shkhelda glacier. Immediately after reaching the glacier, cross it in the direction of the stream descending from the Bzhe­dukh glacier, and follow its right side. Then, ascend steep grassy slopes to reach the right-bank moraine (relative to the direction of travel) of the Bzhedukh glacier. From the moraine, approach the rocky ridge in the right part of the Bzhedukh glacier and ascend it in its middle section via wide ledges. Follow the ridge to the right, towards its highest point. Set up a bivouac here. 5–6 hours from the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp.

76. bivouac on the Southwest Ridge (route 2B cat. difficulty, I. Daibog, P. Karyev, V. Nikolsky, August 28, 1939). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp along the Shkhelda and Aksu glaciers to the snow plateau of the upper cirque of the left branch of the Aksu glacier with the initial bivouac on "Aristov's Overnight Stay" or on the Northeast Ridge of the Aksu peak is described in route 72. Up the plateau - to the left - exit under the saddle of the ridge - Bivouachny pass, located between the peaks of Bivouachny peak on the left and Fizkulturnik on the right. From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund, straight up the steep snowy slope (avalanches!) ascent to the Bivouachny pass. Bivouac on the pass. From "Aristov's Overnight Stay" 6–7 hours. On the pass, turn left and exit under the rock wall of Bivouachny peak. Along the edge of ice and rocks, traverse 40–50 m under the wall to the left, exit to the rocky-snowy Western counterforce. Further, with a 5–8-meter traverse under the overhanging wall (pitons insurance!) move to the left side of the counterforce. Along the steep snow-covered, with ice sections, rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the counterforce (pitons insurance!) 80–100-meter ascent to Bivouachny peak. From Bivouachny pass 1.5–2 hours. Descent via the ascent route. Duration of the route 2 days. It is necessary to have 2–3 ice screws and crampons for all participants. ("Baksan Valley", A. F. Naumov)

158. Viatau via the South Couloir and West Ridge (Category I-b route, Fig. 23, 33).

The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Green Hotel” is described in route 146. From the “Green Hotel”, ascend along the Adylsu gorge, then reach the Jankuat Glacier and move up along it, keeping to its left side. After 350–400 m, turn left and ascend to the left-bank moraine at its lowest point. Continue ascending along the moraine. Having passed the foot of the West Ridge of Viatau Peak, turn left, descend from the moraine, and ascend along the southern slopes of the West Ridge. Initially, the slope is grassy, then it becomes covered with fine and later coarse scree, leading to a wide snowy scree-filled couloir descending south from the West Ridge of Viatau Peak. Here, turn left and ascend along the snowy scree and simple rocks of the wide snowy couloir until you reach the West Ridge of the peak. From here:

• Continue to the right along the simple, destroyed, and partially snowy rocks of the ridge.
• In the upper section, keep to the right side (“live” rocks!).
• Ascend to the summit of Viatau. From the “Green Hotel”, the ascent takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The total duration of the route is 2 days.

Via-tau 2A category via the North ridge

Ascent from the Kod-avgan-aush glacier pass with descent via the ascent route or Category 1B route. Day 1. From the Dmantugan alpine camp, follow the trail along the Adylsu river to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa (Green Inn). Follow the lateral moraine to the Dmankuat glacier, crossing it in the lower part from right to left. Ascend to the right-bank moraine, which has pockets with flat areas and water. Overnight stay. Day 2. From the overnight stay, ascend via the grassy slope and talus to the Kod-avgan-aush glacier, where there are also flat areas on the talus for overnight stays. Via the clay talus, which may be snow-covered at the beginning of summer, ascend to the Kodavvaganaush Lozn pass. The actual pass remains on the left on the ridge. From the false pass, move right along the ridge. After two elevations, the ridge begins to rise. The rock character is slabby (peg страховка). Continue along the несложному ridge to the summit. Descent from the summit via the ascent route or via the Category 1B route. On the Irne-Ivle ridge, there are large cornices and overhanging rocks, making the ascent very challenging. The ridge ascent at this time is done on the left via the rocks (via подкам), where there are many loose stones.

2622

Traverse of Viatau from northeast to northwest, ~Category II route

From the "Dzhangutugan" alpine camp, ascend along the trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Adyl-su River, then cross to its left bank via a bridge. Follow the trail along the left bank to the "Green Hotel" clearing. This is the initial bivouac site. The journey from the "Dzhangutugan" alpine camp takes approximately 2 hours. From the "Green Hotel," access the Dzhankuat Glacier and move upwards along it, sticking to its right side. After 350–400 m, turn left and ascend to the right-bank moraine at its lowest point. Continue the ascent along the moraine. Having passed the foot of the Western ridge of Viatau peak, turn left, descend from the moraine, and ascend along the southern slopes of the Western ridge:

• initially along a grassy slope,
• then across small scree,
• followed by large scree,
• bypassing the base of the broad scree-filled Southern couloir (used by the Category I route),
• continue along the scree at the base of the southeastern horizontal ridge to the right of Viatau peak (refer to Fig. I and Photo I).

Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota

163. Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota via the Western Ridge (Category 1B route, A. Zyuzin, B. Ginzburg, A. Matskevich, S. Naryshkin, L. Khodyush, July 9, 1939).

From the "Adylsu" alpine camp, follow the highway down the Baksan valley to the village of Kurmy. From the village, head right and up along a good path on the left bank of the Kurmychi river, past a waterfall and a meadow on a moraine. Then cross to the right bank of the river and follow it to the tongue of the Kurmychi glacier. Staying on the right side of the glacier, ascend the icefall to the snow plateau of the glacier. Above the icefall, turn right and exit onto the scree of the moraine under the southeastern slopes of Peak Aviatsii. Set up a base camp on the scree. Cross the Kurmychi glacier from the scree to the left (northeast) towards the saddle of the Western ridge of Peak VMF, located between this peak and a gendarme

Navy Route, Category 2B

Route Description

From the Dzhalyk alpine camp along the suspension road, follow the left moraine. At the top, transition to the right moraine. Along the right moraine towards the rocky outcrop between the moraines of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and the Severny Koyavgan Glacier. Below the rocky outcrop, traverse upwards to the right onto the scree. Follow the scree to the lake. Camping by the lake (2 hours 30 minutes from the base). From the lake, head to the left moraine of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and, leaving the southern buttress of the eastern ridge to the right, ascend the snowfield to the Dzhalovchat Pass (40 minutes from the lake). Along the right edge of the Kurmychi Glacier, reach a broad snow saddle (40 minutes from the pass).

• The large gendarme (located at the junction of the Eastern and Western ridges) remains on the right.
• Camping is possible on the saddle below the summit tower. From the saddle, ascend the summit tower on its left side, emerging onto a narrow ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit. A two-meter wall is overcome directly. The ascent up the tower takes about 1.5 hours (40 minutes). Total time is around 4 hours.

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.