Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category

• technical

2. Ascent area

• Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route

• p. Studencheskaya 3792 m, via W wall.

4. Estimated category of difficulty

• 5A

5. Route characteristics

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Ascent area — Igizak area, Gissar ridge.
3. Khamsoya Central peak (3640 m) via the western edge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, length of sections with 3–4 difficulty category — 160 m, average steepness — 65°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 4

ры­же­в цве­та was not translated as per the instruction to keep the original text for non-Russian quotes/passages; however, the rest of the given text is translated as follows: Reddish-colored rock, the cliff is bypassed on the right, 20 m, 2 hooks. From the site, 3 m left-down along the shelf, under the slipping, unfolded to the left, vertical column of legs is inside the inner corner with a wide crack inside. Up the corner —

• 35 m, 4 hooks, climbing is difficult. At the top — a convenient site for belaying. These 2 ropes — the first key point of the route. Further, there is a gentle ridge with several gendarmes. Between the gendarmes, the movement is simultaneous. The first two gendarmes are bypassed, the first one — — to the right, with belaying for ledges, the second — to the left along a wide scree shelf at its base. The third gendarme is overcome initially head-on, 20 m, belaying

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay
3. Climbing route with peak names and elevations: via the NE wall of Zindon 4800 m (O. Shumilov's route), second complete ascent
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
5. Route description: elevation gain — 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 930 m, average steepness — 80°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying (for creating intermediate belay anchors): rock — 318/40, ice — 27, bolt — 7/14
7. Total climbing hours — 57
8. Number of bivouacs and their description:

v. Politekhnik, 3B, via North Ridge (V. Vydrik route, 71)

Ascent Record

Ascent class: rock Region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route description:

• elevation gain — 700 m; © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin» © Copyright 2005–06 MATTs «Vertikal’-Alaudin»

Report

On the ascent of

p. Saryshakh, 5B, via the right part of the northwestern wall

Black Ice Club Team

Team Leader

Poliakov M. A.

Participants

Stepanov N. A.

1. Route classification: Technical.
2. Mountain region: Gissar-Alai, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.

PIK SOAN (4750) via "poske" 4A cat. dif. The peak SOAN is separated from the Zindon summit to the south by a ridge, from which a descent is possible to the east, to the Pravy Zindon glacier, and also a descent to the west, into the Levyy Zindon river valley. To the north, Pik SOAN is separated by a wide ridge, gently descending to the terminal moraine of the Pravy Zindon glacier and connecting Pik SOAN with a double-peaked summit. On the left (when viewed from the Pravy Zindon glacier) peak of this double-peaked summit, an ascent was made and it is rated as 3B cat. dif. (Pik Chaplygina). The descent from the ridge to the west is apparently difficult due to "ram's foreheads" that drop off in its lower part into the Levyy Zindon valley. The eastern wall of Pik SOAN is approximately 500 m of sheer cliffs made of marbleized limestone and a steep ridge above them.

From leaving for the route to descending to the glacier, the group spent 13.5 hours on the route, including rest on the ridge, at the summit, and on the col. Time breakdown by sections:

• Leaving the bivouac on the right moraine of Chimtarginsky Pass
• Approaching the bergschrund
• 1.5 hours Ascending ice to the rocky ridge
• 4.5 hours Ascending rocks to the pre-summit ridge
• 3.0 hours ascending the ridge to the summit

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Chapdara (5297 m) via the left part of the western wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty.

Team of Sports Club "Polytechnic"

August 20–23, 1971

Team Composition

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.