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Route Description: С стене
An account of the ice ascent to Sugul-Beshi West peak in the Central Tian Shan by the "Profsport-P" team in 1988.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — ice and snow
- Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
- Oguz-Bashi 2nd Western (5000 m) via N wall
- Estimated difficulty category — 6B. V. Leontiev's route (1984)
- Height difference — 665 m
- Distance — 880 m Distance of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 880 m. Average steepness — 50°.
- Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |
Route Description: В кф.
Ascent of Peak 60th Anniversary of Great October (4906 m) via the Eastern slope, grade 5B, route pioneered in 1977.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge. 3. Peak - p. 60-letiya Velikoy Oktyabrskoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii, height 4906 m, ascent route - via the eastern counterfort. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 900 m average steepness - 75° length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 532 m. 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: СВ гребню
Ascent to Peak 406 in the Central Tien Shan via the NE ridge, category 2B, height difference 500 m, rocky terrain.
I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing region — Central Tian-Shan Ala-Too, Dekety-Boguya gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 406 m, via N-E ridge 4. Proposed category — 2B category difficulty 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths: snow — 100 m, ice — — , rocks — 460 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock — none, ice — none
Route Description: СВ склону СВ гребня
Ascent to the peak Ayuter via the eastern slope in the Central Tian Shan, category of difficulty, elevation gain 800 m, 12 hours of walking time.
- Area — Ayuter gorge, Central Tien Shan
- Peak — Ayuter peak via the Eastern slope
- Difficulty category — approximate
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, length of complex sections 600 m, average slope 60–65°
- Pitons hammered in — for belay:
rock — 15
ice — 28 - Number of climbing hours — 12
- Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification
Route Description: центру кара С стены
Ascent to Jigit Peak via the center of the North wall glacier, category 4.6 difficulty, description of the route and tactical actions of the team.
- Technical class
- Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge
- Jigit peak via the center of the North wall
- 6B category of complexity, second ascent
- Height difference: 1120 m, length of the wall section of the route to the ridge 1125 m, length of sections 5–6 category of complexity 750 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 77°
- Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: | | 81/21 | 0/0 | 76/25 | 26/4 |
- Climbing hours: 29 and days 2.2
Route Description: треугольнику С стены
Description of the ascent to Dzhigit Peak via Sharashanidze route, category 6B, with a detailed analysis of the sections traversed and technical difficulties encountered.
I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan (Karakol) 3. Climbing route — p. Dzhigit 5170 via the triangle of the northern wall (Sharashanidze). 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Route description: elevation gain — 110 m (to the ridge) average steepness — 68° average steepness of the complex section — 85° length of the complex section (length of the section with 5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m route length — 1200 m (to the ridge)
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent to Peak Karbyshev via the southern ridge, category 4B, made by a group led by Alexander Soldatov in 2003.
Ascent Log
- p. Karbysheva is located in the Terskey-Alatoo range to the north of p. Karakolsky, between p. Blyukhera and p. Dyuklo. The route's ordinal number is 69, section 7.10 of the classification table.
- Name — Pik Karbysheva. Route name — via the South Ridge.
- Proposed category of difficulty is 4B.
- Route type — combined.
- Height difference — 630 m.
- Length — 870 m. Length of sections with category 5 complexity — 105 m. Average steepness of the route — 47°. Steepness of the main part of the route — 53°.
- Number of pitons left on the route — 0 pcs.
- No ITO was used; no drill-in anchors were used.
Route Description: с востока
Route description to the summit "Litovskih Alpinistov" (4080 m) via the Eastern wall, category 4 complexity, located in the Tian-Shan mountain range.
Route Description
To the summit of "Lithuanian Climbers" from the east via the wall - Category 4A difficulty:
- A. Petrauskas (leader)
- A. Buiko
- R. Valepetaite
- R. Vosylute
- V. Valatka
- M. Navelukas
Brief Description of the Summit
Route Description: левому канту треугольника С стены
Description of a Category I complexity route to Mendeleevets Peak in Tian-Shan, complexity category 5B, completed by the Zenit Sports Society team in 16 hours.
Passport
- Rock class
- Tian-Shan, Ayuter gorge
- Peak Mendeleevets along the left edge of the Northern wall of the triangle
- 5B category of difficulty
- Height difference: 840 m, length with the summit ridge - 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty - 380 m. Average steepness of main sections 75° (3400–3950), of which 5 category of difficulty 82° (3600–3950).
- Pitons hammered:
- rock: 102
- bolt: 20
- chocks: –
Route Description: правому кф. 3 стены
Report on the passage of a 4A category route to the summit Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall, category 4A by the team led by Popov V.I.
I. Climbing Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Morozov A.E., CMS | |
| Full Name, sports rank of the participants | Baib G.A., Shironin D.S., 2nd sports rank | |
| Full Name of the coach | Popov V.I. | |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |